3D Printers/FlashForge Creator Pro: Difference between revisions
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3D Printers/FlashForge Creator Pro (view source)
Revision as of 23:30, 26 February 2024
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== Status == | == Status == | ||
<onlyinclude> | <onlyinclude> | ||
* ''' | * '''Abandoned - Trash''' | ||
</onlyinclude> | </onlyinclude> | ||
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!Notes | !Notes | ||
|- | |- | ||
| 2023 | |||
| N/A | |||
| N/A | |||
| N/A | |||
| | |||
* Work began to convert this machine over to modern electronics ( SKR board, etc.) But was abandoned when 4 new creality printers showed up unexpectedly. Given the quality and constraints of this printer, there is no value to it beyond as a parts machine. - ATrain | |||
|- | |||
| June 28, 2020 | |||
| N/A | |||
| N/A | |||
| N/A | |||
| | |||
* This Machine has been a poor state of repair. Filament is jamming when members attempt to use it. | |||
* Use of the two new Prusa Mini printers is highly encouraged. -Revident | |||
|- | |||
| Jan 2020 | |||
| Blue PETG | |||
| Default Slic3r bundle settings | |||
| Default Slic3r bundle settings | |||
| == Last known good workflow (for Chalmers) == | |||
0. Glue stick the build plate | |||
1. Install slicer config | |||
2. Install slicer config bundle | |||
3. set slicer to simple mode | |||
4. increase print scale by 4.1353% (because something screws the scale up in this workflow) | |||
5. slice model | |||
6. load sliced model into GpxUi | |||
7. translate to Replicator 2 RepRap | |||
|- | |||
| Nov, 2018 | | Nov, 2018 | ||
| Hatchbox forest green ABS | | Hatchbox forest green ABS | ||
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However, it is possible, to use the printer with open source toolchain based on Slic3r. [https://github.com/prusa3d/Slic3r/releases Slic3r Prusa Edition] is highly recommended. | However, it is possible, to use the printer with open source toolchain based on Slic3r. [https://github.com/prusa3d/Slic3r/releases Slic3r Prusa Edition] is highly recommended. | ||
Use Instructions in the log from Jan 2020 at the top of this wiki. | |||
It is still possible to use makerbot software, just generate an .x3g file instead of .gcode and upload it to octoprint. | It is still possible to use makerbot software, just generate an .x3g file instead of .gcode and upload it to octoprint. | ||
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*** GCC 4.9 needs to be installed. See https://askubuntu.com/questions/466651/how-do-i-use-the-latest-gcc-on-ubuntu <br /> | *** GCC 4.9 needs to be installed. See https://askubuntu.com/questions/466651/how-do-i-use-the-latest-gcc-on-ubuntu <br /> | ||
*** Then the .AppImage file can just be downloaded, marked as executable, and run. | *** Then the .AppImage file can just be downloaded, marked as executable, and run. | ||
* Load config -- | * Load config and config bundle into Slic3r from this archive -- https://knowledge.hacklab.to/w/images/e/e9/Flashforge_slic3r_configs.zip | ||
***a copy of these two .ini files can be found on the SD card in the printer | ***a copy of these two .ini files can be found on the SD card in the printer | ||
* Select File -> Quck Slice and Save As.. or click on 'Send To Printer' | * Select File -> Quck Slice and Save As.. or click on 'Send To Printer' | ||
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Alternatively, overwrite whole Slic3r config. If you have other printer settings, they will be destroyed! | Alternatively, overwrite whole Slic3r config. If you have other printer settings, they will be destroyed! | ||
* Download | * Download https://knowledge.hacklab.to/w/images/e/e9/Flashforge_slic3r_configs.zip | ||
* Extract as '''~/.Slic3r''' directory for Linux | * Extract as '''~/.Slic3r''' directory for Linux | ||
* Extract as '''~/Library/Application Support/Slic3r/''' directory for Mac | * Extract as '''~/Library/Application Support/Slic3r/''' directory for Mac | ||
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==A few random printing tips== | ==A few random printing tips== | ||
Smaller prints will better adhere to the bed than larger prints. If the print hasn't failed in the first 10% of the print job, it will be unlikely to fail after that. | *Smaller prints will better adhere to the bed than larger prints. If the print hasn't failed in the first 10% of the print job, it will be unlikely to fail after that. | ||
Use Cubic Infill (Available only in Slic3r prusa edition), as it provides rigidity in all directions [http://www.prusaprinters.org/introducing-slic3r-prusa-edition/] and doesn't make printer resonate. | *Use Cubic Infill (Available only in Slic3r prusa edition), as it provides rigidity in all directions [http://www.prusaprinters.org/introducing-slic3r-prusa-edition/] and doesn't make printer resonate. | ||
Do not use honeycomb -- as at the speeds of the default settings, it will cause printer to resonate and skip. | *Do not use honeycomb -- as at the speeds of the default settings, it will cause printer to resonate and skip. | ||
Leaning or drifting prints? Tighten all the belts, especially the Y-axis stepper motor belt. That stepper is prone to becoming loose because the Y-stepper motor puts out more power than the X. A link to a video is in the maintenance section. | *Leaning or drifting prints? Tighten all the belts, especially the Y-axis stepper motor belt. That stepper is prone to becoming loose because the Y-stepper motor puts out more power than the X. A link to a video is in the maintenance section. | ||
*Always store the printer with the X carriage in a corner. (It homes itself to the back left corner anyway when a print is done). But this is to prevent the X and Y axis rods from sagging over time, especially the X axis. It's a known problem, I think, I swear I read it on the internet! | |||
==Octoprint at octopi4.hacklab.to== | ==Octoprint at octopi4.hacklab.to== | ||
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!Notes | !Notes | ||
!Entry By | !Entry By | ||
|- | |||
| June 12, 2019 | |||
| Y-axis appeared to be skipping steps, but we found that there was a set screw loose on the timing pulley on one of the sides, so the whole gantry was driven by the belt on one side only. We tightened the set screw and squared the axis. Also, we flipped the timing belt pulley (hub toward the motor) on the Y axis motor so that the belt doesn't touch the motor flange. It's harder to access but it's tightened well and hopefully you won't have to tighten it again. We also retightened all the other belts for good measure. It works well now. | |||
| Misha | |||
|- | |||
| May 2019 | |||
| The feeding tube for the filament is too wide (4 mm ID 6 mm OD) and too stiff as a result. The problem is, it pushes on the print head in one direction so when the axis is loose, it is printing skewed towers of pisa, in the direction in which the tube pushes. We fed the wire without the tube so that there is no extra pressure on the axis. Therefore the printing errors average to zero. | |||
We bought a smaller and less springy tube (also PTFE) but we are waiting for someone more knowledgeable to install it. | |||
| Misha | |||
|- | |||
| Jan 16, 2019 | |||
| Loosened the Y-axis short belt, lol. In my zeal I tightened it too much, I guess... (the prints were still drifting back a little, the vertical lines were wobbly...) The belt is good now I think, it should make a low sound when you strum the belt. Also changed the screws holding the Y-stepper, added washer and a rubber ring to keep it in place. | |||
| Rana | |||
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|} | |} | ||
[[Category:3D Printers]] | |||