3D Printers/Creality K1: Difference between revisions

From Hacklab.TO Public Wiki
Jump to navigation Jump to search
No edit summary
No edit summary
Line 38: Line 38:


== Tips for printing with a big nozzle ==
== Tips for printing with a big nozzle ==
*The whole point of the big nozzle is to have thicker extrusion lines and bigger layer heights, so less extrusion lines in total are drawn by the printer
 
*a 0.4mm nozzle will take five extrusion lines to draw 2mm of perimeter, whereas the 1mm nozzle can do it in two lines. 2mm perimeters are pretty freaking strong, you can get away with like infill at 10% or 15% (some people do 5% lol) because most of the strength comes from the perimeters. Just set the top and solid infill to 5 or more layers to make sure it covers up any drooping of the top layers
*So a 1 mm nozzle has a max layer height of 0.75mm, which is what the config bundle uploaded here is set too. The extrusion width is set to 1mm for perimeters and 1.2mm for infill
*If your part needs to be an exact height, you can try to set the first layer to a value that give the desired final total height (first layer height + 0.75mm*layers = desired height)
*Can also try out prusa slicers cool feature of variable layer height, but never done it who knows what will happen. This should divide the object into vertical sections, which higher detail sections printing at a low layer height, and low detail sections print with a higher layer height




== Hardware ==
== Hardware ==
* 1mm CHT nozzle installed (high flow)
* 0.4 nozzle (creality's official volcano knock-off)
* screen is Big Tree Tech TFT35-E3 V3.0
* Core-xy movement system going super duper fast
* mainboard is Big Tree Tech SKR Mini E3 V.0
*
* power supply is Mean Well RSP-500-24 (the good one, not first release of this printer that had a shitty one)
* Printhead is Micro Swiss Direct Drive and All-Metal Hot end
** https://store.micro-swiss.com/collections/ender-5-plus/products/micro-swiss-direct-drive-extruder-for-creality-ender-5
 
* Probe is official BL-Touch (which is stock on the E5P)
** it should be set and forget, don't think it needs to be recalibrated ever unless some hardware thing changes
** can use 'babystep' feature to live z-adjust during printing
** refer to this for setting the probe offset https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y_1Kg45APko


== Direct control of printer ==
== Direct control of printer ==
To use pronterface to control the printer, first power up the printer, then connect the usb cable to your computer. On win10 it should auto-detect and possibly install 'maple' (wtf that is lol). Baud 115200
To use pronterface to control the printer, first power up the printer, then connect the usb cable to your computer. On win10 it should auto-detect and possibly install 'maple' (wtf that is lol). Baud 115200
== Calibration notes ==
* using the built in e-steps I got 137.85 steps/mm (this is in the firmware, in the slicer you just change the flow rate)
* at 220C and using PLA, got a max volumetric flow rate of 17 mm^3/s
* at 250C and using PETG, got a max volumetric flow rate of 19 mm^3/s


== Printable Upgrades ==
== Printable Upgrades ==


https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4742487
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4742501
Voron cooling fans: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5171295
Z-axis sync indicators: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4460521


== Print bed usage ==
== Print bed usage ==
The glass plate has a magnetic underside which as been heat fused to the aluminum bed lol. So it is more or less permanently stuck on there. Use the spring steel PEI plate, secure it to the black clips.


Wait for the PEI sheet to cool before removing your prints, take it off the bed and it will cool faster. PETG can rip off the PEI coating if it too hot.




Line 87: Line 61:


==Slicer Settings==
==Slicer Settings==
Use the config bundle for prusa slicer, a copy is in this wiki under 'usage' and another copy is on the USB drive.
Keep in mind that this printer has a 1mm nozzle installed. The slicer settings I uploaded set the line width to 1.2mm and layer height to 0.6mm. So for an object with 1 perimeter is the equivalent of 3 perimeters with a 0.4 nozzle (so decently strong). So for most objects 1 perimeter and 3 top/bottom layers is plenty of plastic and will be strong enough. This will save a shitload of time!!


==A few random printing tips==
==A few random printing tips==


*just pray to the right god lol
*there is a big bed on this printer that takes like 10 min to heat up, so it could be wise to set the bed to heat while you slice your file


==Octoprint at octopi4.hacklab.to==
==Octoprint at octopi4.hacklab.to==


I wish...


== Maintenance Resources ==
== Maintenance Resources ==

Revision as of 00:53, 27 May 2024

Ender 5 Plus

Status

  • The printer works fine - this wiki is a work in progress


Last Known Good Settings

Date Filament type, colour, brand First layer Other layers Notes
May 25th, 2024 PETG, gold, overture noz: 275, bed 85 noz: 275: bed 85

Slicer - Orca slicer

Found these settings from this link, as you all should, I trust random people on the internet for everything.

https://www.reddit.com/r/crealityk1/comments/17885dk/k1_custom_profile_for_orca/





Tips for printing with a big nozzle

Hardware

  • 0.4 nozzle (creality's official volcano knock-off)
  • Core-xy movement system going super duper fast

Direct control of printer

To use pronterface to control the printer, first power up the printer, then connect the usb cable to your computer. On win10 it should auto-detect and possibly install 'maple' (wtf that is lol). Baud 115200

Printable Upgrades

Print bed usage

SD Card

Slicer Settings

A few random printing tips

Octoprint at octopi4.hacklab.to

Maintenance Resources

put stuff here lol

Maintenance Log

Most recent entries at the top.

Date Notes Entry By
June 9, 2022 Setting up the printer Rana
Nov 1, 2023 1mm nozzle installed and it works!!! Rana
Retrieved from "https://knowledge.hacklab.to//index.php?title=3D_Printers/Creality_K1&oldid=2392"