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3D Printers/Ender 5 plus: Difference between revisions
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→Extruder tension for TPU / flexible filaments
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* No filament runout sensor is installed. But one day it will be !! | * No filament runout sensor is installed. But one day it will be !! | ||
</onlyinclude> | </onlyinclude> | ||
* BL-touch flashing red? it is because the little stick at the bottom is not actuating properly because it is being stuck for some reason. To resolve, gently use your finger to pull the stick down and push it back up. Restart the printer, upon start up the BL-touch should go up and down as its start-up test | |||
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**If all else fail then can remove the tube from the fitting by pushing down on the blue collar and pulling the tubing up. Once the filament has cleared the fitting, insert it into the tubing and re-insert the tubing into the gold fitting. MAKE SURE the tubing is firmly in the fitting or else it will get pulled out and mess up filament feeding. | **If all else fail then can remove the tube from the fitting by pushing down on the blue collar and pulling the tubing up. Once the filament has cleared the fitting, insert it into the tubing and re-insert the tubing into the gold fitting. MAKE SURE the tubing is firmly in the fitting or else it will get pulled out and mess up filament feeding. | ||
* to unload, heat up the nozzle and turn the extruder knob counter-clockwise (to the left) | * to unload, heat up the nozzle and turn the extruder knob counter-clockwise (to the left) | ||
=== Extruder tension for TPU / flexible filaments === | |||
For regular hard plastics, the tensioning knob should be well on with the screw protruding from the knob 2-3mm | |||
For TPU or flexible filaments, it needs to be MORE LOOSE or else the filament could jut out from the space below the extruder gear and above the teflon tube that goes into the heatbreak. It looks pretty funny when the filament shoots out, the filament wants to be free!!!! The knob should be past the screw, with 1-2mm of the knob threads off the screw, it'll look something like this: | |||
[[File: Micro_swiss_extruder_levertension_for_TPU.jpg]] | |||
== Configs == | == Configs == | ||
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'''Unzip these files to get to the .ini file inside! Prusaslicer looks for .ini'''. | '''Unzip these files to get to the .ini file inside! Prusaslicer looks for .ini'''. | ||
Best practise is to delete the previous settings (little "X" beside the preset drop down menu), then load this one | |||
{| cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" border="1" | {| cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" border="1" | ||
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|- | |- | ||
| | | Jan 28, 2025 | ||
|Rana | |Rana | ||
|Config Bundle - Machine Profile and profiles for PETG, PLA, TPU | |Config Bundle - Machine Profile and profiles for PETG, PLA, TPU | ||
|[[File: | |[[File:PrusaSlicer_config_bundle_green_machine_with_pysical_printer.zip]] | ||
|Has the Green Machine (Ender 5 Plus) machine settings, | |Has the Green Machine (Ender 5 Plus) machine settings, dialed in settings for elegoo rapid PETG | ||
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* screen is Big Tree Tech TFT35-E3 V3.0 | * screen is Big Tree Tech TFT35-E3 V3.0 | ||
* mainboard is Big Tree Tech SKR Mini E3 V3 | * mainboard is Big Tree Tech SKR Mini E3 V3 | ||
**Note: the TMC stepper drivers on the board usually have stealthchop enabled (for silent stepping), however stealthchop fails at speeds above 100mm/s. So for fast travel moves the firmware will switch the stepper drivers spread cycle mode. So the printer will be louder on fast travel moves. | **Note: the TMC stepper drivers on the board usually have stealthchop enabled (for silent stepping), however stealthchop fails at speeds above 100mm/s. So for fast travel moves the firmware will switch the stepper drivers to spread cycle mode. So the printer will be louder on fast travel moves. | ||
* power supply is Mean Well RSP-500-24 (the good one, not first release of this printer that had a shitty one) | * power supply is Mean Well RSP-500-24 (the good one, not first release of this printer that had a shitty one) | ||
* Printhead is Micro Swiss Direct Drive and All-Metal Hot end | * Printhead is Micro Swiss Direct Drive and All-Metal Hot end | ||
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* Hiwin linear rails on X and Y axis ("good" chinese brand) | * Hiwin linear rails on X and Y axis ("good" chinese brand) | ||
* Magnetic spring steel on the print bed, with textured PEI coating | |||
== Direct control of printer == | == Direct control of printer == | ||
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Use the config bundle for prusa slicer, a copy is in this wiki under 'usage' and another copy is on the USB drive. | Use the config bundle for prusa slicer, a copy is in this wiki under 'usage' and another copy is on the USB drive. | ||
Keep in mind that this printer has a 1mm nozzle installed | Keep in mind that this printer has a 1mm nozzle installed. So for an object with 1 perimeter is the equivalent of 2.5 perimeters with a 0.4 nozzle (so decently strong). So for most objects 2 perimeters and 4 top/bottom layers is plenty of plastic and will be strong enough. This will save a shitload of time!! | ||
==A few random printing tips== | ==A few random printing tips== | ||