3D Printers/FlashForge Creator Pro: Difference between revisions

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== Status ==
== Status ==
<onlyinclude>
<onlyinclude>
* Operational
* '''Abandoned - Trash'''
* [[FlashForge_Creator_Pro#Usage|Slic3r Settings here]]
* '''http://octopi4.hacklab.to/'''
* [[FlashForge_Creator_Pro#SD Card|Or print without OctoPrint using the SD Card]]
</onlyinclude>
</onlyinclude>
-----
Last Known Good Settings
{| cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" border="1"
!Date
!Filament type, colour, brand
!First layer
!Other layers
!Notes
|-
| 2023
| N/A
| N/A
| N/A
|
* Work began to convert this machine over to modern electronics ( SKR board, etc.) But was abandoned when 4 new creality printers showed up unexpectedly. Given the quality and constraints of this printer, there is no value to it beyond as a parts machine. - ATrain
|-
| June 28, 2020
| N/A
| N/A
| N/A
|
* This Machine has been a poor state of repair. Filament is jamming when members attempt to use it.
* Use of the two new Prusa Mini printers is highly encouraged. -Revident
|-
| Jan 2020
| Blue PETG
| Default Slic3r bundle settings
| Default Slic3r bundle settings
| == Last known good workflow (for Chalmers) ==
0. Glue stick the build plate
1. Install slicer config
2. Install slicer config bundle
3. set slicer to simple mode
4. increase print scale by 4.1353% (because something screws the scale up in this workflow)
5. slice model
6. load sliced model into GpxUi
7. translate to Replicator 2 RepRap
|-
| Nov, 2018
| Hatchbox forest green ABS
| Nozzle: 240, Bed: 110
| Nozzle: 240, Bed: 110
| DO NOT use enclosed chamber. Weird, I know. Put a fan on it after the 1st layer. 1st layer may be wavy, you may have to slow down the 1st layer speed to like 15-20 mm/s, or perhaps maybe the bed's too hot?? **biting nails emoji**
Thanks to Zach for suggesting not to use an enclosed chamber, it was driving me flipping insane......  (╯⊙﹏⊙)╯︵ ┴─┴
|-
| Nov, 2018
| AMZ3D Black, ABS
| Nozzle: 235, Bed: 110
| Nozzle: 230, Bed: 110
| Use enclosed chamber. Works decently but these settings are still not tweaked precisely, may over-extrude. Try lowering the temp by 5 C, or set extrusion to 0.95.
|-
| Aug 10, 2018
| 3D Solutech PLA, white
| Nozzle: 215, Bed: off
| Nozzle: 205, Bed: off
| Extrusion multiplier at 0.925. Put fans on it!
|-
|}


== Features ==
== Features ==
Line 16: Line 84:
* Dual extruder
* Dual extruder
* 1.75mm filament
* 1.75mm filament
* Absolute max temp: 250 C
* Nozzle max temp: 250 C
* Heated bed
* Heated bed max temp: 120 C
* Removable glass print plate with PEI sheet. Silicone heat transfer sheet to hold it. The stock aluminum build plate (covered in a black substance) is bowed with the middle as the high point.
 
== Glass Print Plate Usage ==
Glass plate is of GO-3D brand, hopefully real mccoy stuff that is flat... It is covered with a PEI sheet that is adhered to the plate with 3M 468MP High Temp Tape. A blue silicone heat transfer sheet keeps the glass in place with friction and fills gaps between the plate and the aluminum bed, it is a type of silicone used for heat sinks for electronics.
 
* NEVER CLAMP glass plate to bed. It will cause warping of the glass plate. Yes glass warps and bends, look it up. The silicone sheet will keep it in place no problem.
*One corner of the print plate is marked 'Front Right' and is blacked in a little around the corner. When facing the printer, this corner goes to corner that is on the right-hand side and is closest to you (duh, but just to be sure...).
*The temperature of the surface of the glass plate will be lower than the aluminum bed, may have to use higher bed temp than on other printers
* PEI sheet is prep-free surface for ABS and PLA, hot or cold. If you have another material, check first to make sure it will work on PEI. If not, then put tape on top of the sheet and then glue/hairspray/whatever.
* Clean PEI sheet with 85% Isopropyl Alcohol and a paper towel, a green spray bottle should be near the printer. Can also use soap and water.
* The flat spatula used to remove objects from the print plate is also useful for removing glass plate from silicone sheet.


== Usage ==
== Usage ==
'''UPDATE:''' See the "'''Cura 3 Settings for this Printer'''" section for how to configure Cura 3.4.1 to use this printer.
Creator Pro uses different toolchain than the rest of the printers in the lab. This printer is based on one of Makerbot printers and Makerbot as a company would rather have you use Windows-only makerbod-approved software.
Creator Pro uses different toolchain than the rest of the printers in the lab. This printer is based on one of Makerbot printers and Makerbot as a company would rather have you use Windows-only makerbod-approved software.


However, it is possible, to use the printer with open source toolchain based on Slic3r. [https://github.com/prusa3d/Slic3r/releases Slic3r Prusa Edition] is highly recommended.
However, it is possible, to use the printer with open source toolchain based on Slic3r. [https://github.com/prusa3d/Slic3r/releases Slic3r Prusa Edition] is highly recommended.


Detailed instructions are here -- http://data.flamy.ca/printer_config/doc/cretor_pro_config.html
Use Instructions in the log from Jan 2020 at the top of this wiki.
This link is dead, are there instructions anywhere else? --[[User:Hiker|Hiker]] ([[User talk:Hiker|talk]]) 19:14, 22 April 2018 (EDT)


It is still possible to use makerbot software, just generate an .x3g file instead of .gcode and upload it to octoprint.
It is still possible to use makerbot software, just generate an .x3g file instead of .gcode and upload it to octoprint.
Line 32: Line 113:


== SD Card ==
== SD Card ==
You can print from the printer directly by putting your print file on an SD card, there is one already in the printer. It only accepts x3g files, so you will have to convert your .gcode file (made in slic3r) to x3g using this utility http://markwal.github.io/GpxUi/
You can print from the printer directly by putting your print file on an SD card, there is one already in the printer. It only accepts x3g files, so you will have to convert your .gcode file to x3g using this utility called GpxUi http://markwal.github.io/GpxUi/
 
A copy of GpxUi can be found on the SD card in the printer.
 
==Cura 3 Settings for this Printer==
In Cura 3.4.1, to use the below settings, create a '''Custom FDM printer''', then edit the '''Machine Settings''' for that printer to contain the following:<br />
... '''PRINTER TAB'''<br />
'''Printer Settings'''
* X (Width): 226 mm
* Y (Depth): 144 mm
* Z (Height): 150 mm
* Build plate shape: Rectangular
* Origin at center: SELECTED
* Heated bed: SELECTED
* Gcode Flavor: Marlin
'''Printhead Settings'''
* X min: 100 mm
* Y min: 10 mm
* X max: 100 mm
* Y max: 10 mm
* Gantry height: 40 mm
* Number of Extruders: 2
'''Start Gcode'''
<code>
  M136 ; start build
  M73 P0
  G90 ; absolute coordinates
  M140 S{print_bed_temperature}
  M104 S{print_temperature} T0
 
  T0 ; home on the right nozzle
  G28 X Y Z ; home all axes at homing speed
  G92 X0 Y0 Z0 A0 B0 ; set all coords to 0 for now
  G1 Z5 F500 ; move Z 5mm away so we can carefully hit the limit switch
  G161 Z F100 ; home Z slowly
  M132 X Y Z ; recall stored home offsets for XYZ axes
  G1 X110 Y-72 Z30 F3300 ; move to waiting position
  M116 ; wait for temps
  G92 E0 ; set current extruder position as 0 so that E15 below makes sense
  G1 X110 Y-70 Z0.2 F2400.0 ; move to just on the bed
  G1 X110 Y70 E15 F1200.000 ; extrude a line of filament along the right edge of the bed
  G92 E0 ; set E to 0 again because the slicer's next extrusion is relative to this 0
</code>
'''End Gcode'''
<code>
  M104 S0
  M140 S0
  G92 E1
  G1 E-1 F300
  G28 X0 Y0
  M84
 
  M104 T0 S0                    ;extruder heater off
  M140 S0                    ;heated bed heater off (if you have it)
  G91                                    ;relative positioning
  G1 E-1 F300                            ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure
  G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F{travel_speed} ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more
  G28 X0 Y0                              ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way
  M84                        ;steppers off
  G90                        ;absolute positioning</code>
... '''EXTRUDER 1 TAB'''<br />
* Material Diameter: 1.75 mm
* Nozzle size: 0.4 mm
... '''EXTRUDER 2 TAB'''<br />
* Material Diameter: 1.75 mm
* Nozzle size: 0.4 mm


==Slic3r Settings==
==Slic3r Settings==
Line 40: Line 186:
*** GCC 4.9 needs to be installed. See https://askubuntu.com/questions/466651/how-do-i-use-the-latest-gcc-on-ubuntu <br />
*** GCC 4.9 needs to be installed. See https://askubuntu.com/questions/466651/how-do-i-use-the-latest-gcc-on-ubuntu <br />
*** Then the .AppImage file can just be downloaded, marked as executable, and run.
*** Then the .AppImage file can just be downloaded, marked as executable, and run.
* Load config -- http://data.flamy.ca/printer_config/slic3r_latest/config.ini
* Load config and config bundle into Slic3r from this archive -- https://knowledge.hacklab.to/w/images/e/e9/Flashforge_slic3r_configs.zip
* Load config bundle -- http://data.flamy.ca/printer_config/slic3r_latest/Slic3r_config_bundle.ini
***a copy of these two .ini files can be found on the SD card in the printer
* Select File -> Quck Slice and Save As.. or click on 'Send To Printer'
* Select File -> Quck Slice and Save As.. or click on 'Send To Printer'


Alternatively, overwrite whole Slic3r config. If you have other printer settings, they will be destroyed!
Alternatively, overwrite whole Slic3r config. If you have other printer settings, they will be destroyed!


* Download http://data.flamy.ca/printer_config/slic3r_latest/slic3r_config_pla_abs.zip
* Download https://knowledge.hacklab.to/w/images/e/e9/Flashforge_slic3r_configs.zip
* Extract as '''~/.Slic3r''' directory for Linux
* Extract as '''~/.Slic3r''' directory for Linux
* Extract as '''~/Library/Application Support/Slic3r/''' directory for Mac
* Extract as '''~/Library/Application Support/Slic3r/''' directory for Mac
Line 53: Line 199:
See https://github.com/prusa3d/Slic3r-settings
See https://github.com/prusa3d/Slic3r-settings


==Print Settings==
==A few random printing tips==


These are general printer settings that work. If filament has different temperature settings, follow filament temperature settings.
*Smaller prints will better adhere to the bed than larger prints. If the print hasn't failed in the first 10% of the print job, it will be unlikely to fail after that.


Smaller prints will better adhere to the bed than larger prints. If the print hasn't failed in the first 10% of the print job, it will be unlikely to fail after that.
*Use Cubic Infill (Available only in Slic3r prusa edition), as it provides rigidity in all directions [http://www.prusaprinters.org/introducing-slic3r-prusa-edition/] and doesn't make printer resonate.


Use Cubic Infill (Available only in Slic3r prusa edition), as it provides rigidity in all directions [http://www.prusaprinters.org/introducing-slic3r-prusa-edition/] and doesn't make printer resonate.
*Do not use honeycomb -- as at the speeds of the default settings, it will cause printer to resonate and skip.


Do not use honeycomb -- as at the speeds of the default settings, it will cause printer to resonate and skip.
*Leaning or drifting prints? Tighten all the belts, especially the Y-axis stepper motor belt. That stepper is prone to becoming loose because the Y-stepper motor puts out more power than the X. A link to a video is in the maintenance section.


------
*Always store the printer with the X carriage in a corner. (It homes itself to the back left corner anyway when a print is done). But this is to prevent the X and Y axis rods from sagging over time, especially the X axis. It's a known problem, I think, I swear I read it on the internet!
'''Orange (translucent) PLA:'''
 
 
In Slic3r in Fillament Settings tab, '''Right Extruder''' filament profile and in Print Settings tab, '''Fast''' print profile.
 
First Layer:
  Filament: 220
  Bed:      70
 
 
Other Layers:
  Filament: 210
  Bed:      60
 
------
 
------
'''White PLA:'''
 
 
In Slic3r in Fillament Settings tab, '''Right Extruder''' filament profile and in Print Settings tab, '''Fast''' print profile.
 
First Layer:
  Filament: 220
  Bed:      70
 
 
Other Layers:
  Filament: 220
  Bed:      60
 
Print using *105% flow*
------
 
 
'''ABS:'''
 
In Slic3r in Fillament Settings tab, '''ABS Right''' filament profile and in Print Settings tab, '''ABS_first_layer''' print profile. Currently profile is set to 6 skirt layers -- this is normal, ABS needs wide skirt for better adhesion to the bed.
 
 
When printing, you '''absolutely have to''' have a heated chamber, or ABS prints will definitely warp and very likely will not stick to kapton tape.
 
In order to construct heated chamber -- cover the front of printer with a piece of plywood or MDF from the workshop and put some cardboard on top of the printer out of extruder path so the heat escapes more slowly. Pre-heating heaated bed for 5 minutes before starting helps a lot -- set the Bed temperature to 100C in Octopi temperature tab.
 
------
ABS Juice: help with sticking to the bed (especially for large prints)
*when bed is cool, wipe the kapton tape clean with acetone (I used a paper towel with acetone on it)
*take a clean paper towel, put acetone on it and wipe a piece of the ABS with it to get some 'ABS juice' on the towel. Then wipe this over the bed. There should be some failed prints in the 3D printer, or check the mini-can beside the 3D printer for failed prints
*allow to dry completely (~5 minutes), you should see streaks of ABS on the bed. Heat up bed and print as usual.
*ABS should now stick well. Remember to block the build volume to stop air drafts.
------
 
It's better to start ABS prints towards the back of the printer where ambient temperature is more stable. To disable auto-centering, in Slic3r Prusa Edition go to File --> Preferences then uncheck 'Auto-center Parts'.
 
First Layer:
    Fillament: 240
    Bed:      100
    Bed for large prints: 120, use ABS juice!! (See above)   
 
 
Other Layers:
    Fillament: 235
    Bed:      95
    Bed for large prints: 110


==Octoprint at octopi4.hacklab.to==
==Octoprint at octopi4.hacklab.to==
Line 146: Line 228:


FlashForge Creator X, Pro & Dreamer Nozzle Height Adjustment -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1pAPA0mImhI
FlashForge Creator X, Pro & Dreamer Nozzle Height Adjustment -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1pAPA0mImhI
Belt tightening on X and Y axis - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fV4BFUdVx4U


== Maintenance Log ==
== Maintenance Log ==
Line 154: Line 238:
!Notes
!Notes
!Entry By
!Entry By
|-
| June 12, 2019
| Y-axis appeared to be skipping steps, but we found that there was a set screw loose on the timing pulley on one of the sides, so the whole gantry was driven by the belt on one side only. We tightened the set screw and squared the axis. Also, we flipped the timing belt pulley (hub toward the motor) on the Y axis motor so that the belt doesn't touch the motor flange. It's harder to access but it's tightened well and hopefully you won't have to tighten it again. We also retightened all the other belts for good measure. It works well now.
| Misha
|-
| May 2019
| The feeding tube for the filament is too wide (4 mm ID 6 mm OD) and too stiff as a result. The problem is, it pushes on the print head in one direction so when the axis is loose, it is printing skewed towers of pisa, in the direction in which the tube pushes. We fed the wire without the tube so that there is no extra pressure on the axis. Therefore the printing errors average to zero.
We bought a smaller and less springy tube (also PTFE) but we are waiting for someone more knowledgeable to install it.
| Misha
|-
| Jan 16, 2019
| Loosened the Y-axis short belt, lol. In my zeal I tightened it too much, I guess... (the prints were still drifting back a little, the vertical lines were wobbly...) The belt is good now I think, it should make a low sound when you strum the belt. Also changed the screws holding the Y-stepper, added washer and a rubber ring to keep it in place.
| Rana
|-
| Jan 11, 2019
| Tightened X belt, and the small Y belt that connects the motor to the cross rod. Cleaned and lubricated all rods (X, Y, Z). Lubricated Z lead screw. Lubricated the rod bearings on the X and Y (including that the bearings for the cross rod that connects to two Y long belts). Tightened the coupling on the Y axis stepper motor.
Prints were drifting (aka. leaning) towards the rear of the printer and it was driving me nuts. Turns out this can be due to a loose belt. The replicator and clones are susceptible the Y axis becoming loose because extra torque is outputted by the motor since it has to move the extruder carriage and the X stepper.
I also removed some cobwebs from under the printer electronics.
| Rana
|-
| Nov-Dec, 2018
| The aluminum print bed is warped (bowed, with middle as the high point). After trying to level it five million times, finally hit the printer with a baseball bat and it fixed it. Just kidding. Bought a GO 3D glass plate for the bed and a PEI sheet and a silicone heat transfer mat that keeps it in place.
| Rana
|-
| Aug 8, 2018
| Added Lokbuild surface to print bed. No more tape! see section above for usage info
| Rana
|-
| Jun 13, 2018
| When trying to unload the PLA in the right head -- via the Utilities menu -- the Black PLA would not come out. So eventually just cut that filament (with about 6 inches extra left), to be able to finish working on the Type A printer.
| Allen
|-
|-


Line 209: Line 333:


|}
|}
[[Category:3D Printers]]

Latest revision as of 23:30, 26 February 2024

FlashForge Creator Pro

Status

  • Abandoned - Trash


Last Known Good Settings

Date Filament type, colour, brand First layer Other layers Notes
2023 N/A N/A N/A
  • Work began to convert this machine over to modern electronics ( SKR board, etc.) But was abandoned when 4 new creality printers showed up unexpectedly. Given the quality and constraints of this printer, there is no value to it beyond as a parts machine. - ATrain
June 28, 2020 N/A N/A N/A
  • This Machine has been a poor state of repair. Filament is jamming when members attempt to use it.
  • Use of the two new Prusa Mini printers is highly encouraged. -Revident
Jan 2020 Blue PETG Default Slic3r bundle settings Default Slic3r bundle settings == Last known good workflow (for Chalmers) ==

0. Glue stick the build plate

1. Install slicer config

2. Install slicer config bundle

3. set slicer to simple mode

4. increase print scale by 4.1353% (because something screws the scale up in this workflow)

5. slice model

6. load sliced model into GpxUi

7. translate to Replicator 2 RepRap

Nov, 2018 Hatchbox forest green ABS Nozzle: 240, Bed: 110 Nozzle: 240, Bed: 110 DO NOT use enclosed chamber. Weird, I know. Put a fan on it after the 1st layer. 1st layer may be wavy, you may have to slow down the 1st layer speed to like 15-20 mm/s, or perhaps maybe the bed's too hot?? **biting nails emoji**

Thanks to Zach for suggesting not to use an enclosed chamber, it was driving me flipping insane...... (╯⊙﹏⊙)╯︵ ┴─┴

Nov, 2018 AMZ3D Black, ABS Nozzle: 235, Bed: 110 Nozzle: 230, Bed: 110 Use enclosed chamber. Works decently but these settings are still not tweaked precisely, may over-extrude. Try lowering the temp by 5 C, or set extrusion to 0.95.
Aug 10, 2018 3D Solutech PLA, white Nozzle: 215, Bed: off Nozzle: 205, Bed: off Extrusion multiplier at 0.925. Put fans on it!

Features

Background information on printer and review of it -- http://www.best3dprinterguide.com/flashforge-creator-x-review-dual-extruder-3d-printer/

  • FlashForge Creator Pro
  • 225 x 145 x 150 mm print volume
  • Dual extruder
  • 1.75mm filament
  • Nozzle max temp: 250 C
  • Heated bed max temp: 120 C
  • Removable glass print plate with PEI sheet. Silicone heat transfer sheet to hold it. The stock aluminum build plate (covered in a black substance) is bowed with the middle as the high point.

Glass Print Plate Usage

Glass plate is of GO-3D brand, hopefully real mccoy stuff that is flat... It is covered with a PEI sheet that is adhered to the plate with 3M 468MP High Temp Tape. A blue silicone heat transfer sheet keeps the glass in place with friction and fills gaps between the plate and the aluminum bed, it is a type of silicone used for heat sinks for electronics.

  • NEVER CLAMP glass plate to bed. It will cause warping of the glass plate. Yes glass warps and bends, look it up. The silicone sheet will keep it in place no problem.
  • One corner of the print plate is marked 'Front Right' and is blacked in a little around the corner. When facing the printer, this corner goes to corner that is on the right-hand side and is closest to you (duh, but just to be sure...).
  • The temperature of the surface of the glass plate will be lower than the aluminum bed, may have to use higher bed temp than on other printers
  • PEI sheet is prep-free surface for ABS and PLA, hot or cold. If you have another material, check first to make sure it will work on PEI. If not, then put tape on top of the sheet and then glue/hairspray/whatever.
  • Clean PEI sheet with 85% Isopropyl Alcohol and a paper towel, a green spray bottle should be near the printer. Can also use soap and water.
  • The flat spatula used to remove objects from the print plate is also useful for removing glass plate from silicone sheet.

Usage

UPDATE: See the "Cura 3 Settings for this Printer" section for how to configure Cura 3.4.1 to use this printer.

Creator Pro uses different toolchain than the rest of the printers in the lab. This printer is based on one of Makerbot printers and Makerbot as a company would rather have you use Windows-only makerbod-approved software.

However, it is possible, to use the printer with open source toolchain based on Slic3r. Slic3r Prusa Edition is highly recommended.

Use Instructions in the log from Jan 2020 at the top of this wiki.

It is still possible to use makerbot software, just generate an .x3g file instead of .gcode and upload it to octoprint.

It is still possible to use cura, just edit and save your models with STL, then load them into Slic3r and print

SD Card

You can print from the printer directly by putting your print file on an SD card, there is one already in the printer. It only accepts x3g files, so you will have to convert your .gcode file to x3g using this utility called GpxUi http://markwal.github.io/GpxUi/

A copy of GpxUi can be found on the SD card in the printer.

Cura 3 Settings for this Printer

In Cura 3.4.1, to use the below settings, create a Custom FDM printer, then edit the Machine Settings for that printer to contain the following:
... PRINTER TAB
Printer Settings

  • X (Width): 226 mm
  • Y (Depth): 144 mm
  • Z (Height): 150 mm
  • Build plate shape: Rectangular
  • Origin at center: SELECTED
  • Heated bed: SELECTED
  • Gcode Flavor: Marlin

Printhead Settings

  • X min: 100 mm
  • Y min: 10 mm
  • X max: 100 mm
  • Y max: 10 mm
  • Gantry height: 40 mm
  • Number of Extruders: 2

Start Gcode 

 M136 ; start build
 M73 P0
 G90 ; absolute coordinates
 M140 S{print_bed_temperature}
 M104 S{print_temperature} T0
 
 T0 ; home on the right nozzle
 G28 X Y Z ; home all axes at homing speed
 G92 X0 Y0 Z0 A0 B0 ; set all coords to 0 for now
 G1 Z5 F500 ; move Z 5mm away so we can carefully hit the limit switch
 G161 Z F100 ; home Z slowly
 M132 X Y Z ; recall stored home offsets for XYZ axes
 G1 X110 Y-72 Z30 F3300 ; move to waiting position
 M116 ; wait for temps
 G92 E0 ; set current extruder position as 0 so that E15 below makes sense
 G1 X110 Y-70 Z0.2 F2400.0 ; move to just on the bed
 G1 X110 Y70 E15 F1200.000 ; extrude a line of filament along the right edge of the bed
 G92 E0 ; set E to 0 again because the slicer's next extrusion is relative to this 0

End Gcode 

 M104 S0
 M140 S0
 G92 E1
 G1 E-1 F300
 G28 X0 Y0
 M84
 
 M104 T0 S0                     ;extruder heater off
 M140 S0                     ;heated bed heater off (if you have it)
 G91                                    ;relative positioning
 G1 E-1 F300                            ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure
 G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F{travel_speed} ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more
 G28 X0 Y0                              ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way
 M84                         ;steppers off
 G90                         ;absolute positioning

... EXTRUDER 1 TAB

  • Material Diameter: 1.75 mm
  • Nozzle size: 0.4 mm

... EXTRUDER 2 TAB

  • Material Diameter: 1.75 mm
  • Nozzle size: 0.4 mm

Slic3r Settings

Alternatively, overwrite whole Slic3r config. If you have other printer settings, they will be destroyed!

See https://github.com/prusa3d/Slic3r-settings

A few random printing tips

  • Smaller prints will better adhere to the bed than larger prints. If the print hasn't failed in the first 10% of the print job, it will be unlikely to fail after that.
  • Use Cubic Infill (Available only in Slic3r prusa edition), as it provides rigidity in all directions [1] and doesn't make printer resonate.
  • Do not use honeycomb -- as at the speeds of the default settings, it will cause printer to resonate and skip.
  • Leaning or drifting prints? Tighten all the belts, especially the Y-axis stepper motor belt. That stepper is prone to becoming loose because the Y-stepper motor puts out more power than the X. A link to a video is in the maintenance section.
  • Always store the printer with the X carriage in a corner. (It homes itself to the back left corner anyway when a print is done). But this is to prevent the X and Y axis rods from sagging over time, especially the X axis. It's a known problem, I think, I swear I read it on the internet!

Octoprint at octopi4.hacklab.to

Maintenance Resources

Cleaning the Extruder Drive Gear on a FlashForge Creator Pro 3D Printer -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vmIY9_6s8Ss

Flashforge Creator Pro ABS Nozzle Cleaning -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x3yp6H4D_ao

Applying Kapton Tape -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IVXB2_-rFuU

Aligning Dual Extruders on FlashForge Creator Pro -- http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.php?2433-Flashforge-Creator-Dual-Pro-How-to-fix-Dual-Extruders-dragging-across-prints

FlashForge Creator X, Pro & Dreamer Nozzle Height Adjustment -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1pAPA0mImhI

Belt tightening on X and Y axis - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fV4BFUdVx4U

Maintenance Log

Most recent entries at the top.

Date Notes Entry By
June 12, 2019 Y-axis appeared to be skipping steps, but we found that there was a set screw loose on the timing pulley on one of the sides, so the whole gantry was driven by the belt on one side only. We tightened the set screw and squared the axis. Also, we flipped the timing belt pulley (hub toward the motor) on the Y axis motor so that the belt doesn't touch the motor flange. It's harder to access but it's tightened well and hopefully you won't have to tighten it again. We also retightened all the other belts for good measure. It works well now. Misha
May 2019 The feeding tube for the filament is too wide (4 mm ID 6 mm OD) and too stiff as a result. The problem is, it pushes on the print head in one direction so when the axis is loose, it is printing skewed towers of pisa, in the direction in which the tube pushes. We fed the wire without the tube so that there is no extra pressure on the axis. Therefore the printing errors average to zero.

We bought a smaller and less springy tube (also PTFE) but we are waiting for someone more knowledgeable to install it.

Misha
Jan 16, 2019 Loosened the Y-axis short belt, lol. In my zeal I tightened it too much, I guess... (the prints were still drifting back a little, the vertical lines were wobbly...) The belt is good now I think, it should make a low sound when you strum the belt. Also changed the screws holding the Y-stepper, added washer and a rubber ring to keep it in place. Rana
Jan 11, 2019 Tightened X belt, and the small Y belt that connects the motor to the cross rod. Cleaned and lubricated all rods (X, Y, Z). Lubricated Z lead screw. Lubricated the rod bearings on the X and Y (including that the bearings for the cross rod that connects to two Y long belts). Tightened the coupling on the Y axis stepper motor.

Prints were drifting (aka. leaning) towards the rear of the printer and it was driving me nuts. Turns out this can be due to a loose belt. The replicator and clones are susceptible the Y axis becoming loose because extra torque is outputted by the motor since it has to move the extruder carriage and the X stepper. I also removed some cobwebs from under the printer electronics.

Rana
Nov-Dec, 2018 The aluminum print bed is warped (bowed, with middle as the high point). After trying to level it five million times, finally hit the printer with a baseball bat and it fixed it. Just kidding. Bought a GO 3D glass plate for the bed and a PEI sheet and a silicone heat transfer mat that keeps it in place. Rana
Aug 8, 2018 Added Lokbuild surface to print bed. No more tape! see section above for usage info Rana
Jun 13, 2018 When trying to unload the PLA in the right head -- via the Utilities menu -- the Black PLA would not come out. So eventually just cut that filament (with about 6 inches extra left), to be able to finish working on the Type A printer. Allen
Jun 6, 2017 Applied new layer of kapton tape, replaced right fan which had a broken blade. The fan is 24V Alex V.
May 17, 2017 Pi configured with static IP in /etc/dhcpcd.conf.

Nozzles aligned vertically, successfully printed PLA with PVA support: 210°C for both extruders, bed off, blue tape.

Igor
May 2, 2017 Left side of the bed was way higher than the right side. This caused some damage to kapton tape. Re-aligned by eye. Alex V.
Apr 27, 2017 Printed something that was ~90% as long as the short side of the bed (y-axis in slic3r). Had to level the bed a little bit, but it printed fine. I used ABS juice to get it to stick (and blocked the build volume with cardboard) Rana
Feb 18, 2017 Myles mentioned about unlevelled printing bed. I leveled the bed properly, however I printed a small model in the middle of the table. Everything works fine. If you will print a large model may be you will need additional tuning. Mike P.
Feb 9, 2017 Replaced the original print head plate with 3D printed model to reduce strain on wires going to print head. Added 3D printed extruder cable support. The original print head plate in my members' box. Alex V.
Jan 31, 2017 Corrected wire order on right drive motor, both motors feed filament correctly now. Nozzles need to be vertically aligned, one is lower than the other and scrapes the previous layers. Adam
Jan 26, 2017 Replaced Fillament with Orange Monoprice. Cleaned nozzles, drive gears. Right gear doesn't pull fillament properly. Either gear or nozzle needs to be replaced. Alex V, Myles, Mike P
Dec 29, 2016 Bed level adjusted. Heated bed support needs to be disassembled and left front (my left) leveling assembly needs to be readjusted Alex V.
Nov 29, 2016 Right Extruder cleaned, Left Extruder should be clean too Rana
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