Ultimaker 2: Difference between revisions
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→Known Issues and Fixes: update after work done during last 2 weeks.
(→Status: update status after work done during last 2 weeks.) |
(→Known Issues and Fixes: update after work done during last 2 weeks.) |
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==Known Issues and Fixes== | ==Known Issues and Fixes== | ||
* '''IMPORTANT:''' OctoPrint will '''disconnect from Ultimaker 2''' if Ultimaker 1 is powered on. If you want to print on both (or will want to eventually), power both on before starting to print on Ultimaker 2 | * '''IMPORTANT:''' OctoPrint will '''disconnect from Ultimaker 2''' if Ultimaker 1 is powered on. If you want to print on both (or will want to eventually), power both on before starting to print on Ultimaker 2 | ||
*''' | * The wood support structure that holds the printbed is loose! At least on 1 side, a partial disassembly may be needed, to reverse which side the bolt heads are on, and which side the nuts are on. | ||
* ''' | ** '''FOR NOW:''' Grab both sides of the front '''wood''' structure (just outside the bed level screws), then gently move one side up, while the other moves down, to get the bed level. (Bed seems to stay level for printing once ajusted.) | ||
* | * The flatness of the used side of the '''3mm Carbon Fiber Plate''' is out by LESS than 0.1mm ... so large prints should again be possible on this printer. | ||
* '''If needed''', manually adjust the Z-axis for the first layer until the filament is being laid down flat (not rounded). | |||
** Turn the threaded rod clockwise to bring the head closer to the print bed, and counter-clockwise to move the head further away. | |||
* '''This printer is in fairly rough shape mechanically'''. This causes the most problems with prints that have thin filled walls. | * '''This printer is in fairly rough shape mechanically'''. This causes the most problems with prints that have thin filled walls. | ||
** Printing slower and at a higher flow rate can help with getting acceptable print quality. | ** Printing slower and at a higher flow rate can help with getting acceptable print quality. | ||
*** 220°, 110% flow, print @ 30mm/s (1/2 speed), travel @ 60mm/s (also 1/2 speed), 0.4 mm nozzle size, 2.85mm filament size are the '''safe''' settings for this. | *** 220°, 110% flow, print @ 30mm/s (1/2 speed), travel @ 60mm/s (also 1/2 speed), 0.4 mm nozzle size, 2.85mm filament size are the '''safe''' settings for this printer. | ||
*** Excellent results have been reported using 220° & 135% flow. '''However''', anything above 110% flow makes head jams | *** Excellent results have been reported using 220° & 135% flow. '''However''', anything above 110% flow makes head jams more likely. (Some filament reels will work @ higher flow, while others constantly jam.) Thus reducing both print speeds is sometimes a better answer than increasing the % flow above 110%. | ||
*'''Filament Loading Problem''': the printhead is all misaligned, specifically the PEEK peice (light brown in colour) to the teflon coupler (white in colour) above it. Trying to push filament through there to the nozzle is difficult. Try to make a long and sharp point on the end of the filament, the longer the better, so it gives plenty of space to wiggle around in when shoving it in. You can see through the tube going into the top of the teflon piece, so use that to judge how far down the filament has gone. It probably helps to have the nozzle hot, but don't keep the nozzle hot with no filament inside because it is likely to burn plastic/dust inside the nozzle and cause friction issues. | |||
== Features == | == Features == | ||