3D Printers/Creality K1: Difference between revisions

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== Slicer - Orca Slicer ==
== Usage ==


=== Set up ===
* Power switch is on lower left side corner on the back
* Has a built in remote printer control over wifi, you can go to this webpage to view it if you're connected to the hacklab wifi. http://192.168.133.60/#/home


As of writing this, the newest version was 2.0.0. To download, go here and scroll down to the "assets" section (under the "contributors" section). The windows installer .exe worked for Rana.
== Usage - Load Filament ==
* Remove the lid
* The direct-drive extruder (above the nozzle) has a silver tensioner arm with a knob at the top, there is a lock and unlock symbol beside it.
* There is also a printed add-on that locks the extruder tensioner in place (some people claim that the tensioner slips...). The add-on snaps into place.
* There is a filament sensor on the right side of the case, at the top. Push the filament through. You may need to cut the end of the filament to a point if it's difficult to get through.
* Push the filament through all the way to the hot-end, you should feel resistance when it gets to the extruder. To check you can pull the filament back a little and you should see the tube wiggle a bit at the hot-end top.
* Turn on printer, on the touch screen navigate to the "settings" window (it looks like 3 sliders tuning things, the button below the "Home" icon), a temperature and movement window should open. Go to the second tab, "Extrude/retract". Set the temperature and click "extrude".
* When the temperature is reached, push the filament in and it should get caught by the extruder. You should feel the filament getting pulled in.
* It will extrude a little, then when it's done use tweezers to remove the extruded filament


https://github.com/SoftFever/OrcaSlicer/releases/tag/v2.0.0
== Usage - Unload Filament ==
* Turn on printer, on the touch screen navigate to the "settings" window (it looks like 3 sliders tuning things, the button below the "Home" icon), a temperature and movement window should open. Go to the second tab, "Extrude/retract". Set the temperature and click "retract".
* When the temperature is reached, the printer will retract the filament.
* It should retract all the way past the extruder, so can just pull the filament out from the filament sensor without having to touch the printer.
* If not, then have to take the lid off, remove the printed part on top of the hot-end that's over the tensioner arm, and push the tensioner arm to the middle. Pull out the filament and re-lock the tensioner arm.


When installing, can set-up with their Creality K1 profile.
=== Printing ===
 
* Before each print, a printer calibration ritual will be done.
After that, download the custom Orca Slicer profiles.
* VERY IMPORTANT: Wait until the nozzle is hot enough (can see the temperature on the screen), when it at ~150C use tweezers to remove any bit of plastic that has oozed out. This must be done because during the ritual the printer will touch the nozzle to the bed to home the Z-axis. If a bit of plastic is in between the nozzle and the bed then the z-gap will be off and the first layer will fail.
 
* Use the glue on the smooth PEI sheet (the stock sheet that has writing on it). Don't forget to add glue to the purge line! (left most side of the bed)
[[File:K1_Configs-from_Reddit_may_2024.zip]]
* PLA is printed with the lid off!!!! PETG and ABS can be printed with the lid on.
 
(Found these settings from this link, as you all should, I trust random people on the internet for everything. https://www.reddit.com/r/crealityk1/comments/17885dk/k1_custom_profile_for_orca/  )
 
In orca slicer go to File -> Import -> Import Configs ; then select all the .json files and the one .zip file and click "open". The zip file is a custom profile for the K1 from the reddit link, it supposedly has a "speed boost" lol.
 
Changing to different profiles happens via drop-down menu's on the left-side panel. Click on the printer name / filament name / slicing name, a drop-down menu should show up. The reddit profile is "Creality K1 (0.4mm nozzle) Custom".
 
These print settings may require some tweaking to get perfect prints...
 
=== Printing ===
 
Once your model is in the slicer and you have the settings you want, click "Slice" button at top right corner. When slicing is finish the program should which to the "Preview" tab ("Preview" button is now highlighted above the left-side panel). You should see the model in layers now.
 
Beside the "slice" button there is a "print" button, this sends the gcode file to the printer. Click the down arrow that's to the left of the slice button and there will be an "export g-code file" option, select that. Then click it to export the gcode file.


Can put the gcode file on a USB drive and plug that into the front of the printer. Or go to http://192.168.133.60/#/home and you'll see files stored on the device at the lower right corner. Click "+ Import" button and select your gcode file. Once it's uploaded right click the file and click "start printing"


== Slicer - Creality Print 5.0 ==
== Slicer - Creality Print 5.0 ==
This program is installed on the soldering workbench computer and is set up for printing over wifi.


=== Initial Set Up ===
=== Initial Set Up ===
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Once the settings are to your liking, click "Slice Plate" at lower left corner. Once it is sliced, the button under "Slice plate" will be "LAN printing" or "Export to local". For LAN printing, click it, then select the K1 from the drop down menu (middle of window). Then click "Once click printing" and it should upload and start printing. Don't forget to wipe the nozzle of any plastic that as oozed out!
Once the settings are to your liking, click "Slice Plate" at lower left corner. Once it is sliced, the button under "Slice plate" will be "LAN printing" or "Export to local". For LAN printing, click it, then select the K1 from the drop down menu (middle of window). Then click "Once click printing" and it should upload and start printing. Don't forget to wipe the nozzle of any plastic that as oozed out!


If using USB stick, change the "LAN printing" to "Export to local", and save the gcode file to a usb drive.


== Slicer - Orca Slicer ==


NOTE: these are community made profiles and settings. They may need some tweaking.


=== Set up ===


As of writing this, the newest version was 2.0.0. To download, go here and scroll down to the "assets" section (under the "contributors" section). The windows installer .exe worked for Rana.


https://github.com/SoftFever/OrcaSlicer/releases/tag/v2.0.0


When installing, can set-up with their Creality K1 profile.


== Usage ==
After that, download the custom Orca Slicer profiles.
 
[[File:K1_Configs-from_Reddit_may_2024.zip]]
 
(Found these settings from this link, as you all should, I trust random people on the internet for everything. https://www.reddit.com/r/crealityk1/comments/17885dk/k1_custom_profile_for_orca/  )
 
In orca slicer go to File -> Import -> Import Configs ; then select all the .json files and the one .zip file and click "open". The zip file is a custom profile for the K1 from the reddit link, it supposedly has a "speed boost" lol.
 
Changing to different profiles happens via drop-down menu's on the left-side panel. Click on the printer name / filament name / slicing name, a drop-down menu should show up. The reddit profile is "Creality K1 (0.4mm nozzle) Custom".
 
These print settings may require some tweaking to get perfect prints...


* Power switch is on lower left side corner on the back
=== Printing ===
* Has a built in remote printer control over wifi, you can go to this webpage to view it if you're connected to the hacklab wifi. http://192.168.133.60/#/home


=== Printing ===
Once your model is in the slicer and you have the settings you want, click "Slice" button at top right corner. When slicing is finish the program should which to the "Preview" tab ("Preview" button is now highlighted above the left-side panel). You should see the model in layers now.
* Before each print, a printer calibration ritual will be done.
* VERY IMPORTANT: Wait until the nozzle is hot enough (can see the temperature on the screen), when it at ~150C use tweezers to remove any bit of plastic that has oozed out. This must be done because during the ritual the printer will touch the nozzle to the bed to home the Z-axis. If a bit of plastic is in between the nozzle and the bed then the z-gap will be off and the first layer will fail.
* Use the glue on the smooth PEI sheet (the stock sheet that has writing on it). Don't forget to add glue to the purge line! (left most side of the bed)


== Usage - Load/Unload Filament ==
Beside the "slice" button there is a "print" button, this sends the gcode file to the printer. Click the down arrow that's to the left of the slice button and there will be an "export g-code file" option, select that. Then click it to export the gcode file.
* Turn


Can put the gcode file on a USB drive and plug that into the front of the printer. Or go to http://192.168.133.60/#/home and you'll see files stored on the device at the lower right corner. Click "+ Import" button and select your gcode file. Once it's uploaded right click the file and click "start printing"




Retrieved from "https://knowledge.hacklab.to/wiki/Special:MobileDiff/2402"

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