3D Printers/FlashForge Creator Pro
Status
- The octopi4.hacklab.to link is not working, even after power cycling the raspberry pi. You can print from the printer directly by putting your print file on an SD card, there is one already in the printer. It only accepts x3g files, so you will have to convert your .gcode file (made in slic3r) to x3g using this utility http://markwal.github.io/GpxUi/
- Operational
- The 2nd print head not working until parts are purchased & replaced.
- Needs vertical head alignment
- Slic3r Settings here
- http://octopi4.hacklab.to/ // http://192.168.111.142
Features
Background information on printer and review of it -- http://www.best3dprinterguide.com/flashforge-creator-x-review-dual-extruder-3d-printer/
- FlashForge Creator Pro
- 225 x 145 x 150 mm print volume (less with dual extrusion?)
- Dual extruder
- 1.75mm filament
- Absolute max temp: 250 C
- Heated bed
Usage
Creator Pro uses different toolchain than the rest of the printers in the lab. This printer is based on one of Makerbot printers and Makerbot as a company would rather have you use Windows-only makerbod-approved software.
However, it is possible, to use the printer with open source toolchain based on Slic3r. Slic3r Prusa Edition is highly recommended.
Detailed instructions are here -- http://data.flamy.ca/printer_config/doc/cretor_pro_config.html
It is still possible to use makerbot software, just generate an .x3g file instead of .gcode and upload it to octoprint.
It is still possible to use cura, just edit and save your models with STL, then load them into Slic3r and print
Slic3r Settings
- Download the latest Slic3r Prusa edition
- Load config -- http://data.flamy.ca/printer_config/slic3r_latest/config.ini
- Load config bundle -- http://data.flamy.ca/printer_config/slic3r_latest/Slic3r_config_bundle.ini
- Select File -> Quck Slice and Save As.. or click on 'Send To Printer'
Alternatively, overwrite whole Slic3r config. If you have other printer settings, they will be destroyed!
- Download http://data.flamy.ca/printer_config/slic3r_latest/slic3r_config_pla_abs.zip
- Extract as ~/.Slic3r directory for Linux
- Extract as ~/Library/Application Support/Slic3r/ directory for Mac
- Extract as C:\Users\your_user_name\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r or C:\Documents and Settings\your_user_name\Application Data\Slic3r
See https://github.com/prusa3d/Slic3r-settings
Print Settins
These are general printer settings that work. If filament has different temperature settings, follow filament temperature settings.
Use Cubic Infill (Available only in Slic3r prusa edition), as it provides rigidity in all directions [1] and doesn't make printer resonate.
Do not use honeycomb -- as at the speeds of the default settings, it will cause printer to resonate and skip.
PLA:
In Slic3r in Fillament Settings tab, Right Extruder filament profile and in Print Settings tab, Fast print profile.
First Layer:
Filament: 220 Bed: 70
Other Layers:
Filament: 210 Bed: 60
ABS:
In Slic3r in Fillament Settings tab, ABS Right filament profile and in Print Settings tab, ABS_first_layer print profile. Currently profile is set to 6 skirt layers -- this is normal, ABS needs wide skirt for better adhesion to the bed.
When printing, you absolutely have to have a heated chamber, or ABS prints will definitely warp and very likely will not stick to kapton tape.
In order to construct heated chamber -- cover the front of printer with a piece of plywood or MDF from the workshop and put some cardboard on top of the printer out of extruder path so the heat escapes more slowly. Pre-heating heaated bed for 5 minutes before starting helps a lot -- set the Bed temperature to 100C in Octopi temperature tab.
It's better to start ABS prints towards the back of the printer where ambient temperature is more stable. To disable auto-centering, in Slic3r Prusa Edition go to File --> Preferences then uncheck 'Auto-center Parts'.
First Layer:
Fillament: 240 Bed: 100
Other Layers:
Fillament: 235 Bed: 95
Octoprint at octopi4.hacklab.to
- Octopi ui: http://octopi4.hacklab.to/
- Upload and print
- Octopi config file (backup, if raspberry pi gets messed up) -- http://data.flamy.ca/printer_config/config.yaml
Maintenance Resources
Cleaning the Extruder Drive Gear on a FlashForge Creator Pro 3D Printer -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vmIY9_6s8Ss
Flashforge Creator Pro ABS Nozzle Cleaning -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x3yp6H4D_ao
Applying Kapton Tape -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IVXB2_-rFuU
Aligning Dual Extruders on FlashForge Creator Pro -- http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.php?2433-Flashforge-Creator-Dual-Pro-How-to-fix-Dual-Extruders-dragging-across-prints
FlashForge Creator X, Pro & Dreamer Nozzle Height Adjustment -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1pAPA0mImhI
Maintenance Log
Most recent entries at the top.
Date | Notes | Entry By |
---|---|---|
Feb 18, 2017 | Myles mentioned about unlevelled printing bed. I leveled the bed properly, however I printed a small model in the middle of the table. Everything works fine. If you will print a large model may be you will need additional tuning. | Mike P. |
Feb 9, 2017 | Replaced the original print head plate with 3D printed model to reduce strain on wires going to print head. Added 3D printed extruder cable support. The original print head plate in my members' box. | Alex V. |
Jan 31, 2017 | Corrected wire order on right drive motor, both motors feed filament correctly now. Nozzles need to be vertically aligned, one is lower than the other and scrapes the previous layers. | Adam |
Jan 26, 2017 | Replaced Fillament with Orange Monoprice. Cleaned nozzles, drive gears. Right gear doesn't pull fillament properly. Either gear or nozzle needs to be replaced. | Alex V, Myles, Mike P |
Dec 29, 2016 | Bed level adjusted. Heated bed support needs to be disassembled and left front (my left) leveling assembly needs to be readjusted | Alex V. |
Nov 29, 2016 | Right Extruder cleaned, Left Extruder should be clean too | Rana |