3D Printers/Ender 5 plus: Difference between revisions
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==Slicer Settings== | ==Slicer Settings== | ||
Use the config bundle for prusa slicer, a copy is in this wiki under 'usage' and another copy is on the USB drive. | |||
Keep in mind that this printer has a 1mm nozzle installed. The slicer settings I uploaded set the line width to 1.2mm and layer height to 0.6mm. So for an object with 1 perimeter is the equivalent of 3 perimeters with a 0.4 nozzle (so decently strong). So for most objects 1 perimeter and 3 top/bottom layers is plenty of plastic and will be strong enough. This will save a shitload of time!! | |||
==A few random printing tips== | ==A few random printing tips== | ||
Revision as of 22:03, 1 November 2023
Status
Last Known Good Settings
| Date | Filament type, colour, brand | First layer | Other layers | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Nov 1, 2023 | PETG, translucent green, polymaker | noz: 250, bed 90 | noz: 250: bed 80 |
Hardware
- screen is Big Tree Tech TFT35-E3 V3.0
- mainboard is Big Tree Tech SKR Mini E3 V2.0
- power supply is Mean Well RSP-500-24 (the good one, not first release of this printer that had a shitty one)
- Printhead is Micro Swiss Direct Drive and All-Metal Hot end
- Probe is official BL-Touch (which is stock on the E5P)
- it should be set and forget, don't think it needs to be recalibrated ever unless some hardware thing changes
- can use 'babystep' feature to live z-adjust during printing
- refer to this for setting the probe offset https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y_1Kg45APko
Software
To use pronterface to control the printer, first power up the printer, then connect the usb cable to your computer. On win10 it should auto-detect and possibly install 'maple' (wtf that is lol). Baud 115200
Calibration notes
- using the built in e-steps I got 137.85 steps/mm (this is in the firmware, in the slicer you just change the flow rate)
Printable Upgrades
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4742487 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4742501
Voron cooling fans: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5171295
Z-axis sync indicators: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4460521
Print bed usage
The glass plate has a magnetic underside which as been heat fused to the aluminum bed lol. So it is more or less permanently stuck on there. Use the spring steel PEI plate, secure it to the black clips.
Wait for the PEI sheet to cool before removing your prints, take it off the bed and it will cool faster. PETG can rip off the PEI coating if it too hot.
Usage
- there is no octoprint or other network connection set up yet. There is usb port on the side of the touchscreen and there should be a usb stick in it, use that
- use this config file for prusaslicer Media:PrusaSlicer_E5P_config_bundle_physical_printer.zip
- to load the filament push it all the way through the tubing to the direct drive extruder, then can use the knob on the extruder to load it down to the nozzle
- always check the first layer!!! there is live z-adjust on the touchscreen called "baby steps"
SD Card
Slicer Settings
Use the config bundle for prusa slicer, a copy is in this wiki under 'usage' and another copy is on the USB drive.
Keep in mind that this printer has a 1mm nozzle installed. The slicer settings I uploaded set the line width to 1.2mm and layer height to 0.6mm. So for an object with 1 perimeter is the equivalent of 3 perimeters with a 0.4 nozzle (so decently strong). So for most objects 1 perimeter and 3 top/bottom layers is plenty of plastic and will be strong enough. This will save a shitload of time!!
A few random printing tips
know what you're doing!!! this printer is for seasoned vets only!!
Octoprint at octopi4.hacklab.to
I wish...
Maintenance Resources
put stuff here lol
Maintenance Log
Most recent entries at the top.
| Date | Notes | Entry By |
|---|---|---|
| June 9, 2022 | Setting up the printer | Rana |