Ultimaker 2: Difference between revisions

Jump to navigation Jump to search

Ultimaker 2 (view source)

Revision as of 02:39, 1 July 2020

4,320 bytes added ,  1 July 2020
Retired Printer
m (→‎Machine Log: edit for clarity)
(Retired Printer)
 
(62 intermediate revisions by 4 users not shown)
Line 2: Line 2:
This page documents Ultimaker #2 (Fawkes) [A phoenix from the ashes]
This page documents Ultimaker #2 (Fawkes) [A phoenix from the ashes]


Printer lives on the third shelf of the 3D printer tower, next to the [[Type A]].
The printer lives on the bottom shelf of the 3D printer tower.


==Status==
==Status==
<onlyinclude>
<onlyinclude>
* April 26th 2017, got great prints with the Bright Yellow PLA using these settings: 220C, speed 40 mm/s, flow 115%.
* '''Last known good settings:''' 220°, 110% flow, print 60mm/s, travel 120mm/s, 0.4 mm nozzle size, 2.85mm filament size.
* Operational ... it can be Problematic
* Black PLA/PHA (This needs different retraction settings from PLA.)
* There is a custom filament feeder on the back of the machine. Use the little red chock in the position shown here to ensure the pinch roller can grab the filament properly.
* The Carbon Fiber Plate flatness is "good enough" only on the side in use.
** Using a Brim to hold parts to the Print Bed is strongly recommended.
** Using a Brim to hold parts to the Print Bed is strongly recommended.
** Bed was leveled but Print Bed is NOT perfectly flat! (O.K. for small X/Y size prints.)
** Bed was leveled, but wood support structure is loose! (See Known Issues and Fixes section about that.)
** The Z axis Zero Stop is inconsistent/unreliable. It is set a bit low & user manually turns the Z-axis screw (clockwise) to bring head towards the bed just until 1st layer of plastic becomes flat.
** If head too close & extruder starts clicking, that can cause filament feed problems.
** If head too close & extruder starts clicking, that can cause filament feed problems.
* Loaded with Bright Yellow 2.85mm PLA
* Set X-axis to about 102% of Y-axis Scale to get square/round prints. (Translucent Red 20mm X/Y/Z cube by printer.)
* '''PLA ONLY!''' (to prevent nozzle contamination)
* '''PLA ONLY!''' (to prevent nozzle contamination)
* [[3D_Printers#Cura_15|Cura 15 Settings here]]
* [[3D_Printers#Cura_15|Cura 15 Settings here]]
Line 18: Line 19:


==Known Issues and Fixes==
==Known Issues and Fixes==
* '''IMPORTANT:''' OctoPrint will '''disconnect from Ultimaker 2''' if Ultimaker 1 is powered on. If you want to print on both (or will want to eventually), power both on before starting your print on Ultimaker 2
* '''IMPORTANT:''' OctoPrint will '''disconnect from Ultimaker 2''' if Ultimaker 1 is powered on. If you want to print on both (or will want to eventually), power both on before starting to print on Ultimaker 2
*The large white zip tie around the extruder can block the tensioner (the black piece) from contacting the filament. Make sure the tensioner slides just behind the head of that zip tie.
* DO NOT USE Isopropyl Alcohol on the '''IPG Blue Tape'''. (On any other make of Blue Tape using that is fine.)
*Bed is really warped (higher up in the middle, lower down on the sides). Leveling the bed is unlikely to fix this. Manually adjust the Z-axis for the first layer until the filament is being laid down flat (not rounded). Turn the threaded rod counter-clockwise to lower, clockwise to raise.  
* The wood support structure that holds the printbed is loose! At least on 1 side, a partial disassembly may be needed, to reverse which side the bolt heads are on, and which side the nuts are on.
*the nozzle is old and will need replacement soon (parts from china in the mail, supposedly). Print more slowly if the prints are not coming out good. Avoid feeding the filament over 120% feed rate, this will clog the nozzle even more.
** '''FOR NOW:''' Grab both sides of the front '''wood''' structure (just outside the bed level screws), then gently move one side up, while the other moves down, to get the bed level. (Bed seems to stay level for printing once ajusted.)
* The flatness of the used side of the '''3mm Carbon Fiber Plate''' is out by LESS than 0.1mm ... so large prints should again be possible on this printer.
* '''If needed''', manually adjust the Z-axis for the first layer until the filament is being laid down flat (not rounded).
** Turn the threaded rod clockwise to bring the head closer to the print bed, and counter-clockwise to move the head further away.
* '''This printer is in fairly rough shape mechanically'''. This causes the most problems with prints that have thin filled walls.
** Printing slower and at a higher flow rate can help with getting acceptable print quality.
*** 220°, 110% flow, print @ 30mm/s (1/2 speed), travel @ 60mm/s (also 1/2 speed), 0.4 mm nozzle size, 2.85mm filament size are the '''safe''' settings for this printer.


== Features ==
== Features ==
Line 27: Line 34:
* Ultimaker Original with extruder drive upgrade
* Ultimaker Original with extruder drive upgrade
* Built from an incomplete kit and a bunch of parts are 3D printed
* Built from an incomplete kit and a bunch of parts are 3D printed
* 210 x 210 x 205 mm print volume
* 210 x 210 x 205 mm print volume (Carbon Fiber Plate for printing on is only 200mm wide.)
* 2.85mm filament
* 2.85mm filament
* Absolute max temperature: 250 C
* Absolute max temperature: 250 C
Line 39: Line 46:
!Entry By
!Entry By
|-
|-
| June 28, 2020
|
* This Machine has been retired, replaced by Prusa Mini #2
| Revident
|-
|November 13, 2018
|Front rod that was bent replaced. (X-axis home switch needed adjustment after doing this.)
|Atrain
|-
|May 29, 2018
|Head was jammed, took it apart and replaced Hot End Isolator Coupler, Hot End Isolator Tube and PEEK Insulator with ebay parts that were in 3D printer parts bin. Seems OK now, maybe under-extruding a bit.
|Igor
|-
|February 28, 2018
|
* Using a feeler gauge & Machine Shop straight edge, determine that the center of the plate '''is high by more than 0.2mm'''.
* HOWEVER, the other side has a different high/low spots pattern, that is out by '''less than 0.1mm'''. (More than 0.06mm, and less than 0.1mm)
* So able to get the Carbon Fiber Plate working to print on, by ONLY using the '''one good side'''.
** '''See the Known Issues and Fixes section, about the loose wood under-structure that holds the build plate.'''
|Allen
|-
|February 20, 2018
|
* 300mm X 200mm X 3mm Carbon Fiber Plate purchase for printing on is HIGH in the Center.
* After installing (without cutting) takes HOURS to get the bed leveled. (Front left spring can't go up more. Back right level screw seems jammed.)
* Once leveled, CAN finally print on entire print bed, but high center has print in that area toooo close, in a way that will always rip blue tape when taking the print off.
|Allen
|-
|February 8, 2018
|
* Reconnect the board cooling fan on the underside of this printer. (Wire pulled, so not plugged in?)
* Use a straightened out coat-hanger to get badly broken out of the bowden tube.
|Allen
|-
|October 19, 2017
| Replaced broken (physically split) Power Jack.
|atrain
|-
|October 12, 2017
|
* On Thursday October 5th, Ultimaker 2 "just died" mid-print. (No front red power LED.)
* Tried the Power adapter for Ultimaker 1 -- which did '''nothing''' to help get Ultimaker 2 running again.
|Allen
|-
|July 13, 2017
|
* Use a 3D printed guide ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:81415 ) to put the X-axis rods back into the correct alignment. (When the X-axis home switch was failing, one side had been moved closer to that switch.)
|Allen
|-
|June 23, 2017
|
* Use Thermal Adhesive to put a re-purposed VGA Heatsink onto the end of the Extruder Stepper motor. (NO adhesive in the center, near the shaft end.)
* Head NOT moving smothly '''again'''! Use Silicone Fluid to lube/clean all X/Y shafts.
** Double-check that no end-cap screw is toooo thigh while doing this.
|Allen
|-
|Jun 8-9, 2017
|'''Extruder DIED!''' (Plate that the Tension Arm screws into is cracked/broken.)
* Totally rebuild this using new printed parts.
** Everything except the Bearing Cap and the Large Gear was reprinted (on Ultimaker 1)
** Printed with PLA using: 4 Perimeter lines (1.6mm); Top/Bottom 1.6mm; 100% Fill.
** Bowden Clip Holder printed at 105% (Thin washers as shims under screws.)
** Everything else was printed at 100% (Which means everything is a tight fit.)
* The old-style (ABS) Filament Compression Arm was labeled & put in the Printer Parts basket.
* The tension block is now almost too big. (Grove side up & only goes 1/2 block length in.)
* White Motor Gear moved down shaft towards Stepper Motor! (No longer meshed/engaged w/ large Extruder Gear.)
** Put Gorilla Glue (Super-Glue Gel?) on motor shaft under & behind White Gear.
** Move Stepper Motor over as put Large Gear back on. (Gears were toooo tight.)
|Allen
|-
|Jun 7, 2017
|Lubricate the Z screw using Superlube Synthetic Grease.
|Allen
|-
|June 6, 2017
|Replaced the brass nozzle with a brand new one. Still underextruding though... whole head needs disassembly and new parts I think. Got a decent print at 40 mm/s, 220 deg, 110% flow, and nozzle size at 0.3mm
|rana
|-
|June 1, 2017
|
Suspected the Translucent Yellow filament was aggravating the problems w/ this printer ... so '''changed the filament''' to a Pastel Pink roll, which is like the other rolls that have worked well. Now printer works fine @ 220&deg;C & 110% Flow.
|Allen
|-


|May 24, 2017
|May 24, 2017
Line 185: Line 292:
|}
|}


==To Do List==
== Parts and Supplies Wish List ==
* Repairs
** Finish to-do list/upgrade list
** Reprint X/Y bushing blocks, remount
** Print tensioners, install
** Print new extruder in entirety, mount
** Print Raspberry Pi mounting plate, mount pi, wire up
** Straighten Z axis acme rod
** Crimp cable going to print head
** Remount X/Y gantry system
** Order hot end
** Order boden cable
** Order extruder (dependent on success of printable extruder)
** Flash firmware
** Calibrate endstops
 
* Printable Upgrades
** Spool holder
** Magnetically attached print bed
** Motor mounts
** Fan cowling
** Z axis home switch adjuster
** Axis end-caps


[[Category:3D Printers]]
[[Category:3D Printers]]
Revident
150

edits

Retrieved from "https://knowledge.hacklab.to/wiki/Special:MobileDiff/1261...1865"

Navigation menu