Ultimaker 2: Difference between revisions

Jump to navigation Jump to search

Ultimaker 2 (view source)

Revision as of 02:39, 1 July 2020

1,233 bytes added ,  1 July 2020
Retired Printer
(→‎Machine Log: "just died" problem.)
(Retired Printer)
 
(33 intermediate revisions by 4 users not shown)
Line 2: Line 2:
This page documents Ultimaker #2 (Fawkes) [A phoenix from the ashes]
This page documents Ultimaker #2 (Fawkes) [A phoenix from the ashes]


Printer lives on the third shelf of the 3D printer tower, next to the [[Type A]].
The printer lives on the bottom shelf of the 3D printer tower.


==Status==
==Status==
<onlyinclude>
<onlyinclude>
Black PLA/PHA Filament to print parts for "Mother of all Cable Racks" Project.
* '''Last known good settings:''' 220°, 110% flow, print 60mm/s, travel 120mm/s, 0.4 mm nozzle size, 2.85mm filament size.
*'''Last known good settings''': (28-Sept-2017, PLA/PHA)  '''220&deg;''', 110% flow, print @ '''30mm/s''' (1/2 speed), travel @ '''60mm/s''' (also 1/2 speed), 0.4 mm nozzle size, 2.85mm filament size.
* Black PLA/PHA (This needs different retraction settings from PLA.)
* '''DOWN''' ... just DIED (no front Red LED) mid-print.
* There is a custom filament feeder on the back of the machine. Use the little red chock in the position shown here to ensure the pinch roller can grab the filament properly.
* The Carbon Fiber Plate flatness is "good enough" only on the side in use.
** Using a Brim to hold parts to the Print Bed is strongly recommended.
** Using a Brim to hold parts to the Print Bed is strongly recommended.
** Bed was leveled but Print Bed is NOT perfectly flat! (Back/Right corner worst.)
** Bed was leveled, but wood support structure is loose! (See Known Issues and Fixes section about that.)
** The Z axis Zero Stop is inconsistent/unreliable. It is set a bit low & user manually turns the Z-axis screw (clockwise) to bring head towards the bed just until 1st layer becomes flat.
** If head too close & extruder starts clicking, that can cause filament feed problems.
** If head too close & extruder starts clicking, that can cause filament feed problems.
* Set X-axis to about 102% of Y-axis Scale to get square/round prints. (Pink 20mm X/Y/Z cube beside printer.)
* Set X-axis to about 102% of Y-axis Scale to get square/round prints. (Translucent Red 20mm X/Y/Z cube by printer.)
* Loaded with Pastel Pink 2.85mm PLA
* '''PLA ONLY!''' (to prevent nozzle contamination)
* '''PLA ONLY!''' (to prevent nozzle contamination)
* [[3D_Printers#Cura_15|Cura 15 Settings here]]
* [[3D_Printers#Cura_15|Cura 15 Settings here]]
Line 21: Line 20:
==Known Issues and Fixes==
==Known Issues and Fixes==
* '''IMPORTANT:''' OctoPrint will '''disconnect from Ultimaker 2''' if Ultimaker 1 is powered on. If you want to print on both (or will want to eventually), power both on before starting to print on Ultimaker 2
* '''IMPORTANT:''' OctoPrint will '''disconnect from Ultimaker 2''' if Ultimaker 1 is powered on. If you want to print on both (or will want to eventually), power both on before starting to print on Ultimaker 2
* Bed is really warped (higher up in the middle, lower down on the sides). Leveling the bed is unlikely to fix this.
* DO NOT USE Isopropyl Alcohol on the '''IPG Blue Tape'''. (On any other make of Blue Tape using that is fine.)
** Manually adjust the Z-axis for the first layer until the filament is being laid down flat (not rounded).
* The wood support structure that holds the printbed is loose! At least on 1 side, a partial disassembly may be needed, to reverse which side the bolt heads are on, and which side the nuts are on.
*** Turn the threaded rod clockwise to bring the head closer to the print bed, and counter-clockwise to move the head further away.
** '''FOR NOW:''' Grab both sides of the front '''wood''' structure (just outside the bed level screws), then gently move one side up, while the other moves down, to get the bed level. (Bed seems to stay level for printing once ajusted.)
** for larger parts use 0.2mm layer height (or larger) -- so that if the 2nd layer successfully prints, you get the expected flat surface to continue printing on.
* The flatness of the used side of the '''3mm Carbon Fiber Plate''' is out by LESS than 0.1mm ... so large prints should again be possible on this printer.
* This printer is in fairly rough shape mechanically. This causes the most problems with prints that have thin filled walls.
* '''If needed''', manually adjust the Z-axis for the first layer until the filament is being laid down flat (not rounded).
** Turn the threaded rod clockwise to bring the head closer to the print bed, and counter-clockwise to move the head further away.
* '''This printer is in fairly rough shape mechanically'''. This causes the most problems with prints that have thin filled walls.
** Printing slower and at a higher flow rate can help with getting acceptable print quality.
** Printing slower and at a higher flow rate can help with getting acceptable print quality.
*** 220°, 110% flow, print @ 30mm/s (1/2 speed), travel @ 60mm/s (also 1/2 speed), 0.4 mm nozzle size, 2.85mm filament size are the '''safe''' settings for this.
*** 220°, 110% flow, print @ 30mm/s (1/2 speed), travel @ 60mm/s (also 1/2 speed), 0.4 mm nozzle size, 2.85mm filament size are the '''safe''' settings for this printer.
*** Excellent results have been reported using 220° & 135% flow. '''However''', anything above 110% flow makes head jams very likely. (Some filament reels will work @ higher flow, while others constantly jam.) Thus reducing both print speeds is a better answer than increasing the % flow above 110%.


== Features ==
== Features ==
Line 34: Line 34:
* Ultimaker Original with extruder drive upgrade
* Ultimaker Original with extruder drive upgrade
* Built from an incomplete kit and a bunch of parts are 3D printed
* Built from an incomplete kit and a bunch of parts are 3D printed
* 210 x 210 x 205 mm print volume
* 210 x 210 x 205 mm print volume (Carbon Fiber Plate for printing on is only 200mm wide.)
* 2.85mm filament
* 2.85mm filament
* Absolute max temperature: 250 C
* Absolute max temperature: 250 C
Line 47: Line 47:
|-
|-


| June 28, 2020
|
* This Machine has been retired, replaced by Prusa Mini #2
| Revident
|-
|November 13, 2018
|Front rod that was bent replaced. (X-axis home switch needed adjustment after doing this.)
|Atrain
|-
|May 29, 2018
|Head was jammed, took it apart and replaced Hot End Isolator Coupler, Hot End Isolator Tube and PEEK Insulator with ebay parts that were in 3D printer parts bin. Seems OK now, maybe under-extruding a bit.
|Igor
|-
|February 28, 2018
|
* Using a feeler gauge & Machine Shop straight edge, determine that the center of the plate '''is high by more than 0.2mm'''.
* HOWEVER, the other side has a different high/low spots pattern, that is out by '''less than 0.1mm'''. (More than 0.06mm, and less than 0.1mm)
* So able to get the Carbon Fiber Plate working to print on, by ONLY using the '''one good side'''.
** '''See the Known Issues and Fixes section, about the loose wood under-structure that holds the build plate.'''
|Allen
|-
|February 20, 2018
|
* 300mm X 200mm X 3mm Carbon Fiber Plate purchase for printing on is HIGH in the Center.
* After installing (without cutting) takes HOURS to get the bed leveled. (Front left spring can't go up more. Back right level screw seems jammed.)
* Once leveled, CAN finally print on entire print bed, but high center has print in that area toooo close, in a way that will always rip blue tape when taking the print off.
|Allen
|-
|February 8, 2018
|
* Reconnect the board cooling fan on the underside of this printer. (Wire pulled, so not plugged in?)
* Use a straightened out coat-hanger to get badly broken out of the bowden tube.
|Allen
|-
|October 19, 2017
| Replaced broken (physically split) Power Jack.
|atrain
|-


|October 12, 2017
|October 12, 2017
|
|
* On Thursday October 5th, Ultimaker 2 "just died" mid-print. (No front red power LED.)
* On Thursday October 5th, Ultimaker 2 "just died" mid-print. (No front red power LED.)
* Tried the Power adapter for Ultimaker 1 -- which did *nothing* to help get Ultimaker 2 running again.
* Tried the Power adapter for Ultimaker 1 -- which did '''nothing''' to help get Ultimaker 2 running again.
|Allen
|Allen
|-  
|-  
Line 246: Line 292:
|}
|}


==To Do List==
== Parts and Supplies Wish List ==
* Repairs
** Finish to-do list/upgrade list
** Reprint X/Y bushing blocks, remount
** Print tensioners, install
** Print new extruder in entirety, mount
** Print Raspberry Pi mounting plate, mount pi, wire up
** Straighten Z axis acme rod
** Crimp cable going to print head
** Remount X/Y gantry system
** Order hot end
** Order boden cable
** Order extruder (dependent on success of printable extruder)
** Flash firmware
** Calibrate endstops
 
* Printable Upgrades
** Spool holder
** Magnetically attached print bed
** Motor mounts
** Fan cowling
** Z axis home switch adjuster
** Axis end-caps


[[Category:3D Printers]]
[[Category:3D Printers]]
Revident
144

edits

Retrieved from "https://knowledge.hacklab.to/wiki/Special:MobileDiff/1372...1865"

Navigation menu