Ultimaker 2: Difference between revisions

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Ultimaker 2 (view source)

Revision as of 02:39, 1 July 2020

1,038 bytes removed ,  1 July 2020
Retired Printer
(→‎Status: update loaded filament)
(Retired Printer)
 
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This page documents Ultimaker #2 (Fawkes) [A phoenix from the ashes]
This page documents Ultimaker #2 (Fawkes) [A phoenix from the ashes]


Printer lives on the third shelf of the 3D printer tower, next to the [[Type A]].
The printer lives on the bottom shelf of the 3D printer tower.


==Status==
==Status==
<onlyinclude>
<onlyinclude>
'''Old/Brittle Filament''' ... do NOT leave this filament loaded when done printing!
* '''Last known good settings:''' 220°, 110% flow, print 60mm/s, travel 120mm/s, 0.4 mm nozzle size, 2.85mm filament size.
 
* Black PLA/PHA (This needs different retraction settings from PLA.)
YS White PLA (from Amazon.ca)
* There is a custom filament feeder on the back of the machine. Use the little red chock in the position shown here to ensure the pinch roller can grab the filament properly.
*'''Last known good settings''': (05-Dec-2017, Pastel Yellow PLA)  '''220&deg;''', 138% flow, print @ '''50mm/s''', travel @ '''150mm/s''', 0.4 mm nozzle size, 2.85mm filament size.
* The Carbon Fiber Plate flatness is "good enough" only on the side in use.
**note: the reason the flow is pumped-up is because the print-head is misaligned and causing drag on the filament. I suspect you could even up the flow and the speed and get decent (but still crappy) prints. If you want to print slower for higher precision you may need to reduce the flow (but <110% flow at any speed will cause under-extrusion)
* Operational ... it can be '''Problematic'''
** Using a Brim to hold parts to the Print Bed is strongly recommended.
** Using a Brim to hold parts to the Print Bed is strongly recommended.
** Bed was leveled, but wood support structure is loose! (See Known Issues and Fixes section about that.)
** Bed was leveled, but wood support structure is loose! (See Known Issues and Fixes section about that.)
** If head too close & extruder starts clicking, that can cause filament feed problems.
** If head too close & extruder starts clicking, that can cause filament feed problems.
* Set X-axis to about 102% of Y-axis Scale to get square/round prints. (Pink 20mm X/Y/Z cube beside printer.)
* Set X-axis to about 102% of Y-axis Scale to get square/round prints. (Translucent Red 20mm X/Y/Z cube by printer.)
* '''PLA ONLY!''' (to prevent nozzle contamination)
* '''PLA ONLY!''' (to prevent nozzle contamination)
* [[3D_Printers#Cura_15|Cura 15 Settings here]]
* [[3D_Printers#Cura_15|Cura 15 Settings here]]
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==Known Issues and Fixes==
==Known Issues and Fixes==
* '''IMPORTANT:''' OctoPrint will '''disconnect from Ultimaker 2''' if Ultimaker 1 is powered on. If you want to print on both (or will want to eventually), power both on before starting to print on Ultimaker 2
* '''IMPORTANT:''' OctoPrint will '''disconnect from Ultimaker 2''' if Ultimaker 1 is powered on. If you want to print on both (or will want to eventually), power both on before starting to print on Ultimaker 2
* DO NOT USE Isopropyl Alcohol on the '''IPG Blue Tape'''. (On any other make of Blue Tape using that is fine.)
* The wood support structure that holds the printbed is loose! At least on 1 side, a partial disassembly may be needed, to reverse which side the bolt heads are on, and which side the nuts are on.
* The wood support structure that holds the printbed is loose! At least on 1 side, a partial disassembly may be needed, to reverse which side the bolt heads are on, and which side the nuts are on.
** '''FOR NOW:''' Grab both sides of the front '''wood''' structure (just outside the bed level screws), then gently move one side up, while the other moves down, to get the bed level. (Bed seems to stay level for printing once ajusted.)
** '''FOR NOW:''' Grab both sides of the front '''wood''' structure (just outside the bed level screws), then gently move one side up, while the other moves down, to get the bed level. (Bed seems to stay level for printing once ajusted.)
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** Printing slower and at a higher flow rate can help with getting acceptable print quality.
** Printing slower and at a higher flow rate can help with getting acceptable print quality.
*** 220°, 110% flow, print @ 30mm/s (1/2 speed), travel @ 60mm/s (also 1/2 speed), 0.4 mm nozzle size, 2.85mm filament size are the '''safe''' settings for this printer.
*** 220°, 110% flow, print @ 30mm/s (1/2 speed), travel @ 60mm/s (also 1/2 speed), 0.4 mm nozzle size, 2.85mm filament size are the '''safe''' settings for this printer.
*** Excellent results have been reported using 220° & 135% flow. '''However''', anything above 110% flow makes head jams more likely. (Some filament reels will work @ higher flow, while others constantly jam.) Thus reducing both print speeds is sometimes a better answer than increasing the % flow above 110%.
*'''Filament Loading Problem''': the printhead is all misaligned, specifically the PEEK peice (light brown in colour) to the teflon coupler (white in colour) above it. Trying to push filament through there to the nozzle is difficult. Try to make a long and sharp point on the end of the filament, the longer the better, so it gives plenty of space to wiggle around in when shoving it in. You can see through the tube going into the top of the teflon piece, so use that to judge how far down the filament has gone. It probably helps to have the nozzle hot, but don't keep the nozzle hot with no filament inside because it is likely to burn plastic/dust inside the nozzle and cause friction issues.


== Features ==
== Features ==
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|-
|-


| June 28, 2020
|
* This Machine has been retired, replaced by Prusa Mini #2
| Revident
|-
|November 13, 2018
|Front rod that was bent replaced. (X-axis home switch needed adjustment after doing this.)
|Atrain
|-
|May 29, 2018
|Head was jammed, took it apart and replaced Hot End Isolator Coupler, Hot End Isolator Tube and PEEK Insulator with ebay parts that were in 3D printer parts bin. Seems OK now, maybe under-extruding a bit.
|Igor
|-


|February 28, 2018
|February 28, 2018
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* HOWEVER, the other side has a different high/low spots pattern, that is out by '''less than 0.1mm'''. (More than 0.06mm, and less than 0.1mm)
* HOWEVER, the other side has a different high/low spots pattern, that is out by '''less than 0.1mm'''. (More than 0.06mm, and less than 0.1mm)
* So able to get the Carbon Fiber Plate working to print on, by ONLY using the '''one good side'''.
* So able to get the Carbon Fiber Plate working to print on, by ONLY using the '''one good side'''.
** See the Known Issues and Fixes section, about the loose wood under-structure that holds the build plate.
** '''See the Known Issues and Fixes section, about the loose wood under-structure that holds the build plate.'''
|Allen
|Allen
|-  
|-  
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== Parts and Supplies Wish List ==
== Parts and Supplies Wish List ==
* www.aliexpress.com/item/A-Funssor-4pcs-Ultimaker-Original-UM2-Plus-Printhead-Corner-Thumbscrews-M3-60-70-m-Print-Head/32838283972.html
** Strongly suggest shipped by '''ePacket''' (becomes XpressPost in Canada.)
** Thumb Screw spec's: github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker-Original-Plus/tree/master/1680%20Print%20Head%20Thumb%20screw%2062mm


[[Category:3D Printers]]
[[Category:3D Printers]]
Revident
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