FlashForge Creator Pro
- Slic3r Settings here
- Or print without OctoPrint using the SD Card
Background information on printer and review of it -- http://www.best3dprinterguide.com/flashforge-creator-x-review-dual-extruder-3d-printer/
- FlashForge Creator Pro
- 225 x 145 x 150 mm print volume
- Dual extruder
- 1.75mm filament
- Absolute max temp: 250 C
- Heated bed
Creator Pro uses different toolchain than the rest of the printers in the lab. This printer is based on one of Makerbot printers and Makerbot as a company would rather have you use Windows-only makerbod-approved software.
However, it is possible, to use the printer with open source toolchain based on Slic3r. Slic3r Prusa Edition is highly recommended.
Detailed instructions are here -- http://data.flamy.ca/printer_config/doc/cretor_pro_config.html
It is still possible to use makerbot software, just generate an .x3g file instead of .gcode and upload it to octoprint.
It is still possible to use cura, just edit and save your models with STL, then load them into Slic3r and print
You can print from the printer directly by putting your print file on an SD card, there is one already in the printer. It only accepts x3g files, so you will have to convert your .gcode file (made in slic3r) to x3g using this utility http://markwal.github.io/GpxUi/
- Download the latest Slic3r Prusa edition
- Load config -- http://data.flamy.ca/printer_config/slic3r_latest/config.ini
- Load config bundle -- http://data.flamy.ca/printer_config/slic3r_latest/Slic3r_config_bundle.ini
- Select File -> Quck Slice and Save As.. or click on 'Send To Printer'
Alternatively, overwrite whole Slic3r config. If you have other printer settings, they will be destroyed!
- Download http://data.flamy.ca/printer_config/slic3r_latest/slic3r_config_pla_abs.zip
- Extract as ~/.Slic3r directory for Linux
- Extract as ~/Library/Application Support/Slic3r/ directory for Mac
- Extract as C:\Users\your_user_name\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r or C:\Documents and Settings\your_user_name\Application Data\Slic3r
These are general printer settings that work. If filament has different temperature settings, follow filament temperature settings.
Smaller prints will better adhere to the bed than larger prints. If the print hasn't failed in the first 10% of the print job, it will unlikely to fail after that.
Use Cubic Infill (Available only in Slic3r prusa edition), as it provides rigidity in all directions  and doesn't make printer resonate.
Do not use honeycomb -- as at the speeds of the default settings, it will cause printer to resonate and skip.
In Slic3r in Fillament Settings tab, Right Extruder filament profile and in Print Settings tab, Fast print profile.
Filament: 220 Bed: 70
Filament: 210 Bed: 60
In Slic3r in Fillament Settings tab, ABS Right filament profile and in Print Settings tab, ABS_first_layer print profile. Currently profile is set to 6 skirt layers -- this is normal, ABS needs wide skirt for better adhesion to the bed.
When printing, you absolutely have to have a heated chamber, or ABS prints will definitely warp and very likely will not stick to kapton tape.
In order to construct heated chamber -- cover the front of printer with a piece of plywood or MDF from the workshop and put some cardboard on top of the printer out of extruder path so the heat escapes more slowly. Pre-heating heaated bed for 5 minutes before starting helps a lot -- set the Bed temperature to 100C in Octopi temperature tab.
ABS Juice: help with sticking to the bed (especially for large prints)
- when bed is cool, wipe the kapton tape clean with acetone (I used a paper towel with acetone on it)
- take a clean paper towel, put acetone on it and wipe a piece of the ABS with it to get some 'ABS juice' on the towel. Then wipe this over the bed. There should be some failed prints in the 3D printer, or check the mini-can beside the 3D printer for failed prints
- allow to dry completely (~5 minutes), you should see streaks of ABS on the bed. Heat up bed and print as usual.
- ABS should now stick well. Remember to block the build volume to stop air drafts.
It's better to start ABS prints towards the back of the printer where ambient temperature is more stable. To disable auto-centering, in Slic3r Prusa Edition go to File --> Preferences then uncheck 'Auto-center Parts'.
Fillament: 240 Bed: 100 Bed for large prints: 120, use ABS juice!! (See above)
Fillament: 235 Bed: 95 Bed for large prints: 110
Octoprint at octopi4.hacklab.to
- Octopi ui: http://octopi4.hacklab.to/
- Upload and print
- Octopi config file (backup, if raspberry pi gets messed up) -- http://data.flamy.ca/printer_config/config.yaml
Cleaning the Extruder Drive Gear on a FlashForge Creator Pro 3D Printer -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vmIY9_6s8Ss
Flashforge Creator Pro ABS Nozzle Cleaning -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x3yp6H4D_ao
Applying Kapton Tape -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IVXB2_-rFuU
Aligning Dual Extruders on FlashForge Creator Pro -- http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.php?2433-Flashforge-Creator-Dual-Pro-How-to-fix-Dual-Extruders-dragging-across-prints
FlashForge Creator X, Pro & Dreamer Nozzle Height Adjustment -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1pAPA0mImhI
Most recent entries at the top.
|Jun 6, 2017||Applied new layer of kapton tape, replaced right fan which had a broken blade. The fan is 24V||Alex||-||May 17, 2017|| Pi configured with static IP in /etc/dhcpcd.conf.
Nozzles aligned vertically, successfully printed PLA with PVA support: 210°C for both extruders, bed off, blue tape.
|May 2, 2017||Left side of the bed was way higher than the right side. This caused some damage to kapton tape. Re-aligned by eye.||Alex V.|
|Apr 27, 2017||Printed something that was ~90% as long as the short side of the bed (y-axis in slic3r). Had to level the bed a little bit, but it printed fine. I used ABS juice to get it to stick (and blocked the build volume with cardboard)||Rana|
|Feb 18, 2017||Myles mentioned about unlevelled printing bed. I leveled the bed properly, however I printed a small model in the middle of the table. Everything works fine. If you will print a large model may be you will need additional tuning.||Mike P.|
|Feb 9, 2017||Replaced the original print head plate with 3D printed model to reduce strain on wires going to print head. Added 3D printed extruder cable support. The original print head plate in my members' box.||Alex V.|
|Jan 31, 2017||Corrected wire order on right drive motor, both motors feed filament correctly now. Nozzles need to be vertically aligned, one is lower than the other and scrapes the previous layers.||Adam|
|Jan 26, 2017||Replaced Fillament with Orange Monoprice. Cleaned nozzles, drive gears. Right gear doesn't pull fillament properly. Either gear or nozzle needs to be replaced.||Alex V, Myles, Mike P|
|Dec 29, 2016||Bed level adjusted. Heated bed support needs to be disassembled and left front (my left) leveling assembly needs to be readjusted||Alex V.|
|Nov 29, 2016||Right Extruder cleaned, Left Extruder should be clean too||Rana|