FlashForge Creator Pro

From Hacklab.TO Public Wiki
Revision as of 20:11, 8 August 2018 by Ran0 (Talk | contribs)

Jump to: navigation, search
FlashForge Creator Pro


  • Last Known Good Settings: White solutech PLA - First layer: 220 deg, Rest of layers: 210 deg. No heated bed. Extrusion multiplier 1, but it seems to be over extruding just a little, can try .975


Background information on printer and review of it -- http://www.best3dprinterguide.com/flashforge-creator-x-review-dual-extruder-3d-printer/

  • FlashForge Creator Pro
  • 225 x 145 x 150 mm print volume
  • Dual extruder
  • 1.75mm filament
  • Absolute max temp: 250 C
  • Heated bed
  • Lokbuild print surface. See section below for details and usage info


Creator Pro uses different toolchain than the rest of the printers in the lab. This printer is based on one of Makerbot printers and Makerbot as a company would rather have you use Windows-only makerbod-approved software.

However, it is possible, to use the printer with open source toolchain based on Slic3r. Slic3r Prusa Edition is highly recommended.

Detailed instructions are here -- http://data.flamy.ca/printer_config/doc/cretor_pro_config.html This link is dead, are there instructions anywhere else? --Hiker (talk) 19:14, 22 April 2018 (EDT)

It is still possible to use makerbot software, just generate an .x3g file instead of .gcode and upload it to octoprint.

It is still possible to use cura, just edit and save your models with STL, then load them into Slic3r and print

SD Card

You can print from the printer directly by putting your print file on an SD card, there is one already in the printer. It only accepts x3g files, so you will have to convert your .gcode file (made in slic3r) to x3g using this utility http://markwal.github.io/GpxUi/

A copy of GpxUi can be found on the SD card in the printer.

Lokbuild Print Surface

  • Do not use heated bed for PLA, it will adhere to the surface no problem
  • Can use heated bed for ABS, use whatever temperature you normally would
  • for other materials see official site http://www.lokbuild.com/ or search it on internetz
    • according to them, it can be used with: ABS, PLA, HIPS, PET, colorFabb_XT, colorFabb nGen, colorFabb_HT, colorFabb XT-CF20 (carbon fibre), Woodfill, Bronzefill, Copperfill, Brassfill, Polymaker PC-Plus (polycarbonate), Polymaker PC-Max (polycarbonate), Polymaker PolyFlex, Ninjaflex
  • Lokbuild is durable. Rana has printed 100's of times on it at home and it still is good as new.


  • Use Lokbuild surface alone. Do not use tape, or "ABS Juice", or glue stick or anything
  • Print as you normally would. Rana finds even large prints do not curl, but use a brim or raft if you like. No fan for first layer.
  • To remove print, use the flat spatula to get underneath as usual. A room temperature print will just pop off easily. Lokbuild is durable, but if you really try you can scuff the surface.
  • MUST ALLOW heated bed to cool to room temp before you remove print. Not doing so may remove the Lokbuild surface. If you're in a hurry put a fan on it.
  • You may see markings on the surface from where your print was. This is not a problem, you can print right on top of the markings as usual, they do not affect adherence of plastic to surface (at least for PLA... rana hasn't tried other materials)
  • Praise Lokbuild god that you don't have to use tape anymore. Lokbuild will cease to adhere if ritual offerings are withheld.
  • To clean: use warm-hot water with dish detergent, scrub with the green side of the sponge. Rinse with water. This should remove any markings left over from prints. The surface should look good as new.
  • May also clean with <10% isopropyl alcohol.
  • DO NOT put acetone on surface or high % isopropyl, this is will damage the surface.

Cura 3 Settings for this Printer

In Cura 3.4.1, to use the below settings, create a Custom FDM printer, then edit the Machine Settings for that printer to contain the following:
Printer Settings

  • X (Width): 266 mm
  • Y (Depth): 144 mm
  • Z (Height): 150 mm
  • Build plate shape: Rectangular
  • Origin at center: SELECTED
  • Heated bed: SELECTED
  • Gcode Flavor: Marlin

Printhead Settings

  • X min: 100 mm
  • Y min: 10 mm
  • X max: 100 mm
  • Y max: 10 mm
  • Gantry height: 40 mm
  • Number of Extruders: 2

Start Gcode

 M136 ; start build
 M73 P0
 G90 ; absolute coordinates
 M140 S{print_bed_temperature}
 M104 S{print_temperature} T0
 T0 ; home on the right nozzle
 G28 X Y Z ; home all axes at homing speed
 G92 X0 Y0 Z0 A0 B0 ; set all coords to 0 for now
 G1 Z5 F500 ; move Z 5mm away so we can carefully hit the limit switch
 G161 Z F100 ; home Z slowly
 M132 X Y Z ; recall stored home offsets for XYZ axes
 G1 X110 Y-72 Z30 F3300 ; move to waiting position
 M116 ; wait for temps
 G92 E0 ; set current extruder position as 0 so that E15 below makes sense
 G1 X110 Y-70 Z0.2 F2400.0 ; move to just on the bed
 G1 X110 Y70 E15 F1200.000 ; extrude a line of filament along the right edge of the bed
 G92 E0 ; set E to 0 again because the slicer's next extrusion is relative to this 0

End Gcode

 M104 S0
 M140 S0
 G92 E1
 G1 E-1 F300
 G28 X0 Y0
 M104 T0 S0                     ;extruder heater off
 M140 S0                     ;heated bed heater off (if you have it)
 G91                                    ;relative positioning
 G1 E-1 F300                            ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure
 G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F{travel_speed} ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more
 G28 X0 Y0                              ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way
 M84                         ;steppers off
 G90                         ;absolute positioning


  • Material Diameter: 1.75 mm
  • Nozzle size: 0.4 mm


  • Material Diameter: 1.75 mm
  • Nozzle size: 0.4 mm

Slic3r Settings

Alternatively, overwrite whole Slic3r config. If you have other printer settings, they will be destroyed!

See https://github.com/prusa3d/Slic3r-settings

Print Settings

These are general printer settings that work. If filament has different temperature settings, follow filament temperature settings.

Smaller prints will better adhere to the bed than larger prints. If the print hasn't failed in the first 10% of the print job, it will be unlikely to fail after that.

Use Cubic Infill (Available only in Slic3r prusa edition), as it provides rigidity in all directions [1] and doesn't make printer resonate.

Do not use honeycomb -- as at the speeds of the default settings, it will cause printer to resonate and skip.

Orange (translucent) PLA:

In Slic3r in Fillament Settings tab, Right Extruder filament profile and in Print Settings tab, Fast print profile.

First Layer:

  Filament: 220
  Bed:       70

Other Layers:

  Filament: 210
  Bed:      60

White PLA:

In Slic3r in Fillament Settings tab, Right Extruder filament profile and in Print Settings tab, Fast print profile.

First Layer:

  Filament: 220
  Bed:       70

Other Layers:

  Filament: 220
  Bed:      60

Print using *105% flow*


In Slic3r in Fillament Settings tab, ABS Right filament profile and in Print Settings tab, ABS_first_layer print profile. Currently profile is set to 6 skirt layers -- this is normal, ABS needs wide skirt for better adhesion to the bed.

When printing, you absolutely have to have a heated chamber, or ABS prints will definitely warp and very likely will not stick to kapton tape.

In order to construct heated chamber -- cover the front of printer with a piece of plywood or MDF from the workshop and put some cardboard on top of the printer out of extruder path so the heat escapes more slowly. Pre-heating heaated bed for 5 minutes before starting helps a lot -- set the Bed temperature to 100C in Octopi temperature tab.

ABS Juice: help with sticking to the bed (especially for large prints)

  • when bed is cool, wipe the kapton tape clean with acetone (I used a paper towel with acetone on it)
  • take a clean paper towel, put acetone on it and wipe a piece of the ABS with it to get some 'ABS juice' on the towel. Then wipe this over the bed. There should be some failed prints in the 3D printer, or check the mini-can beside the 3D printer for failed prints
  • allow to dry completely (~5 minutes), you should see streaks of ABS on the bed. Heat up bed and print as usual.
  • ABS should now stick well. Remember to block the build volume to stop air drafts.

It's better to start ABS prints towards the back of the printer where ambient temperature is more stable. To disable auto-centering, in Slic3r Prusa Edition go to File --> Preferences then uncheck 'Auto-center Parts'.

First Layer:

   Fillament: 240
   Bed:       100
   Bed for large prints: 120, use ABS juice!! (See above)    

Other Layers:

   Fillament: 235
   Bed:       95
   Bed for large prints: 110

Octoprint at octopi4.hacklab.to

Maintenance Resources

Cleaning the Extruder Drive Gear on a FlashForge Creator Pro 3D Printer -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vmIY9_6s8Ss

Flashforge Creator Pro ABS Nozzle Cleaning -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x3yp6H4D_ao

Applying Kapton Tape -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IVXB2_-rFuU

Aligning Dual Extruders on FlashForge Creator Pro -- http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.php?2433-Flashforge-Creator-Dual-Pro-How-to-fix-Dual-Extruders-dragging-across-prints

FlashForge Creator X, Pro & Dreamer Nozzle Height Adjustment -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1pAPA0mImhI

Maintenance Log

Most recent entries at the top.

Date Notes Entry By
Aug 8, 2018 Added Lokbuild surface to print bed. No more tape! see section above for usage info Rana
Jun 13, 2018 When trying to unload the PLA in the right head -- via the Utilities menu -- the Black PLA would not come out. So eventually just cut that filament (with about 6 inches extra left), to be able to finish working on the Type A printer. Allen
Jun 6, 2017 Applied new layer of kapton tape, replaced right fan which had a broken blade. The fan is 24V Alex V.
May 17, 2017 Pi configured with static IP in /etc/dhcpcd.conf.

Nozzles aligned vertically, successfully printed PLA with PVA support: 210°C for both extruders, bed off, blue tape.

May 2, 2017 Left side of the bed was way higher than the right side. This caused some damage to kapton tape. Re-aligned by eye. Alex V.
Apr 27, 2017 Printed something that was ~90% as long as the short side of the bed (y-axis in slic3r). Had to level the bed a little bit, but it printed fine. I used ABS juice to get it to stick (and blocked the build volume with cardboard) Rana
Feb 18, 2017 Myles mentioned about unlevelled printing bed. I leveled the bed properly, however I printed a small model in the middle of the table. Everything works fine. If you will print a large model may be you will need additional tuning. Mike P.
Feb 9, 2017 Replaced the original print head plate with 3D printed model to reduce strain on wires going to print head. Added 3D printed extruder cable support. The original print head plate in my members' box. Alex V.
Jan 31, 2017 Corrected wire order on right drive motor, both motors feed filament correctly now. Nozzles need to be vertically aligned, one is lower than the other and scrapes the previous layers. Adam
Jan 26, 2017 Replaced Fillament with Orange Monoprice. Cleaned nozzles, drive gears. Right gear doesn't pull fillament properly. Either gear or nozzle needs to be replaced. Alex V, Myles, Mike P
Dec 29, 2016 Bed level adjusted. Heated bed support needs to be disassembled and left front (my left) leveling assembly needs to be readjusted Alex V.
Nov 29, 2016 Right Extruder cleaned, Left Extruder should be clean too Rana