== Status ==
Temporarly DOWN''' ** '''Out of filament''', due to "last roll of PLA" in the Dry Bin was NOT PLA. And '''Right Head is unable to unload filament'''.
* [[FlashForge_Creator_Pro#Usage|Slic3r Settings here]]
* [[FlashForge_Creator_Pro#SD Card|Or print without OctoPrint using the SD Card]]
== Features ==
* Dual extruder
* 1.75mm filament
Absolute max temp: 250 C* Heated bed
== Usage ==
Creator Pro uses different toolchain than the rest of the printers in the lab. This printer is based on one of Makerbot printers and Makerbot as a company would rather have you use Windows-only makerbod-approved software.
== SD Card ==
You can print from the printer directly by putting your print file on an SD card, there is one already in the printer. It only accepts x3g files, so you will have to convert your .gcode file
(made in slic3r) to x3g using this utility http://markwal.github.io/GpxUi/
A copy of GpxUi can be found on the SD card in the printer.
These are general printer settings that work. If filament has different temperature settings, follow filament temperature settings.
Smaller prints will better adhere to the bed than larger prints. If the print hasn't failed in the first 10% of the print job, it will be unlikely to fail after that.
Use Cubic Infill (Available only in Slic3r prusa edition), as it provides rigidity in all directions [http://www.prusaprinters.org/introducing-slic3r-prusa-edition/] and doesn't make printer resonate.
Do not use honeycomb -- as at the speeds of the default settings, it will cause printer to resonate and skip.
------ '''Orange (translucent) PLA:''' In Slic3r in Fillament Settings tab, '''Right Extruder''' filament profile and in Print Settings tab, '''Fast''' print profile. First Layer: Filament: 220 Bed: 70 Other Layers: Filament: 210 Bed: 60 ------ ------ '''White PLA:''' In Slic3r in Fillament Settings tab, '''Right Extruder''' filament profile and in Print Settings tab, '''Fast''' print profile. First Layer: Filament: 220 Bed: 70 Other Layers: Filament: 220 Bed: 60 Print using * 105% flow* ------ '''ABS:''' In Slic3r in Fillament Settings tab, '''ABS Right''' filament profile and in Print Settings tab, '''ABS_first_layer''' print profile. Currently profile is set to 6 skirt layers -- this is normal, ABS needs wide skirt for better adhesion to the bed. When printing, you '''absolutely have to''' have a heated chamber, or ABS prints will definitely warp and very likely will not stick to kapton tape. In order to construct heated chamber -- cover the front of printer with a piece of plywood or MDF from the workshop and put some cardboard on top of the printer out of extruder path so the heat escapes more slowly. Pre-heating heaated bed for 5 minutes before starting helps a lot -- set the Bed temperature to 100C in Octopi temperature tab. ------ ABS Juice: help with sticking to the bed (especially for large prints) *when bed is cool, wipe the kapton tape clean with acetone (I used a paper towel with acetone on it) *take a clean paper towel, put acetone on it and wipe a piece of the ABS with it to get some 'ABS juice' on the towel. Then wipe this over the bed. There should be some failed prints in the 3D printer, or check the mini-can beside the 3D printer for failed prints *allow to dry completely (~5 minutes), you should see streaks of ABS on the bed. Heat up bed and print as usual. *ABS should now stick well. Remember to block the build volume to stop air drafts. ------ It's better to start ABS prints towards the back of the printer where ambient temperature is more stable. To disable auto-centering, in Slic3r Prusa Edition go to File --> Preferences then uncheck 'Auto-center Parts'. First Layer: Fillament: 240 Bed: 100 Bed for large prints: 120, use ABS juice! ! (See above) Other Layers: Fillament: 235 Bed: 95 Bed for large prints: 110
==Octoprint at octopi4.hacklab.to==
FlashForge Creator X, Pro & Dreamer Nozzle Height Adjustment -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1pAPA0mImhI
== Maintenance Log ==