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FlashForge Creator Pro

5,914 bytes added, 00:43, 24 July 2019
/* Status */ update Octoprint url
== Status ==
* '''Temporarly DOWNWorking'''** '''Out of filament''', due to "last roll of PLA" in the Dry Bin was NOT PLA. And '''Right Head is unable to unload filament'''.
* [[FlashForge_Creator_Pro#Usage|Slic3r Settings here]]
* ''''''
* [[FlashForge_Creator_Pro#SD Card|Or print without OctoPrint using the SD Card]]
Last Known Good Settings
{| cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" border="1"
!Filament type, colour, brand
!First layer
!Other layers
| Nov, 2018
| Hatchbox forest green ABS
| Nozzle: 240, Bed: 110
| Nozzle: 240, Bed: 110
| DO NOT use enclosed chamber. Weird, I know. Put a fan on it after the 1st layer. 1st layer may be wavy, you may have to slow down the 1st layer speed to like 15-20 mm/s, or perhaps maybe the bed's too hot?? **biting nails emoji**
Thanks to Zach for suggesting not to use an enclosed chamber, it was driving me flipping insane...... (╯⊙﹏⊙)╯︵ ┴─┴
| Nov, 2018
| AMZ3D Black, ABS
| Nozzle: 235, Bed: 110
| Nozzle: 230, Bed: 110
| Use enclosed chamber. Works decently but these settings are still not tweaked precisely, may over-extrude. Try lowering the temp by 5 C, or set extrusion to 0.95.
| Aug 10, 2018
| 3D Solutech PLA, white
| Nozzle: 215, Bed: off
| Nozzle: 205, Bed: off
| Extrusion multiplier at 0.925. Put fans on it!
== Features ==
* Dual extruder
* 1.75mm filament
* Absolute Nozzle max temp: 250 C* Heated bedmax temp: 120 C* Removable glass print plate with PEI sheet. Silicone heat transfer sheet to hold it. The stock aluminum build plate (covered in a black substance) is bowed with the middle as the high point. == Glass Print Plate Usage ==Glass plate is of GO-3D brand, hopefully real mccoy stuff that is flat... It is covered with a PEI sheet that is adhered to the plate with 3M 468MP High Temp Tape. A blue silicone heat transfer sheet keeps the glass in place with friction and fills gaps between the plate and the aluminum bed, it is a type of silicone used for heat sinks for electronics. * NEVER CLAMP glass plate to bed. It will cause warping of the glass plate. Yes glass warps and bends, look it up. The silicone sheet will keep it in place no problem.*One corner of the print plate is marked 'Front Right' and is blacked in a little around the corner. When facing the printer, this corner goes to corner that is on the right-hand side and is closest to you (duh, but just to be sure...). *The temperature of the surface of the glass plate will be lower than the aluminum bed, may have to use higher bed temp than on other printers * PEI sheet is prep-free surface for ABS and PLA, hot or cold. If you have another material, check first to make sure it will work on PEI. If not, then put tape on top of the sheet and then glue/hairspray/whatever.* Clean PEI sheet with 85% Isopropyl Alcohol and a paper towel, a green spray bottle should be near the printer. Can also use soap and water.* The flat spatula used to remove objects from the print plate is also useful for removing glass plate from silicone sheet.
== Usage ==
'''UPDATE:''' See the "'''Cura 3 Settings for this Printer'''" section for how to configure Cura 3.4.1 to use this printer.
Creator Pro uses different toolchain than the rest of the printers in the lab. This printer is based on one of Makerbot printers and Makerbot as a company would rather have you use Windows-only makerbod-approved software.
== SD Card ==
You can print from the printer directly by putting your print file on an SD card, there is one already in the printer. It only accepts x3g files, so you will have to convert your .gcode file (made in slic3r) to x3g using this utility called GpxUi 
A copy of GpxUi can be found on the SD card in the printer.
==Cura 3 Settings for this Printer==
In Cura 3.4.1, to use the below settings, create a '''Custom FDM printer''', then edit the '''Machine Settings''' for that printer to contain the following:<br />
... '''PRINTER TAB'''<br />
'''Printer Settings'''
* X (Width): 226 mm
* Y (Depth): 144 mm
* Z (Height): 150 mm
* Build plate shape: Rectangular
* Origin at center: SELECTED
* Heated bed: SELECTED
* Gcode Flavor: Marlin
'''Printhead Settings'''
* X min: 100 mm
* Y min: 10 mm
* X max: 100 mm
* Y max: 10 mm
* Gantry height: 40 mm
* Number of Extruders: 2
'''Start Gcode'''
M136 ; start build
M73 P0
G90 ; absolute coordinates
M140 S{print_bed_temperature}
M104 S{print_temperature} T0
T0 ; home on the right nozzle
G28 X Y Z ; home all axes at homing speed
G92 X0 Y0 Z0 A0 B0 ; set all coords to 0 for now
G1 Z5 F500 ; move Z 5mm away so we can carefully hit the limit switch
G161 Z F100 ; home Z slowly
M132 X Y Z ; recall stored home offsets for XYZ axes
G1 X110 Y-72 Z30 F3300 ; move to waiting position
M116 ; wait for temps
G92 E0 ; set current extruder position as 0 so that E15 below makes sense
G1 X110 Y-70 Z0.2 F2400.0 ; move to just on the bed
G1 X110 Y70 E15 F1200.000 ; extrude a line of filament along the right edge of the bed
G92 E0 ; set E to 0 again because the slicer's next extrusion is relative to this 0
'''End Gcode'''
M104 S0
M140 S0
G92 E1
G1 E-1 F300
G28 X0 Y0
M104 T0 S0 ;extruder heater off
M140 S0 ;heated bed heater off (if you have it)
G91 ;relative positioning
G1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure
G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F{travel_speed} ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way
M84 ;steppers off
G90 ;absolute positioning</code>
... '''EXTRUDER 1 TAB'''<br />
* Material Diameter: 1.75 mm
* Nozzle size: 0.4 mm
... '''EXTRUDER 2 TAB'''<br />
* Material Diameter: 1.75 mm
* Nozzle size: 0.4 mm
==Slic3r Settings==
==Print SettingsA few random printing tips==
These are general printer settings that work*Smaller prints will better adhere to the bed than larger prints. If filament has different temperature settingsthe print hasn't failed in the first 10% of the print job, follow filament temperature settingsit will be unlikely to fail after that.
Smaller prints will better adhere to the bed than larger prints. If the print hasn't failed *Use Cubic Infill (Available only in the first 10% of the print jobSlic3r prusa edition), as it will be unlikely to fail after thatprovides rigidity in all directions [] and doesn't make printer resonate.
Use Cubic Infill (Available only in Slic3r prusa edition)*Do not use honeycomb -- as at the speeds of the default settings, as it provides rigidity in all directions [] and doesn't make will cause printer to resonateand skip.
Do not use honeycomb *Leaning or drifting prints? Tighten all the belts, especially the Y-axis stepper motor belt. That stepper is prone to becoming loose because the Y- as at stepper motor puts out more power than the speeds of the default settings, it will cause printer X. A link to resonate and skipa video is in the maintenance section.
------'''Orange (translucent) PLA:'''  In Slic3r in Fillament Settings tab, '''Right Extruder''' filament profile and in Print Settings tab, '''Fast''' print profile. First Layer: Filament: 220 Bed: 70  Other Layers: Filament: 210 Bed: 60 ------ ------'''White PLA:'''  In Slic3r in Fillament Settings tab, '''Right Extruder''' filament profile and in Print Settings tab, '''Fast''' print profile. First Layer: Filament: 220 Bed: 70  Other Layers: Filament: 220 Bed: 60 Print using *105% flow*------  '''ABS:''' In Slic3r in Fillament Settings tab, '''ABS Right''' filament profile and in Print Settings tab, '''ABS_first_layer''' print profile. Currently profile is set to 6 skirt layers -- this is normal, ABS needs wide skirt for better adhesion to Always store the bed.   When printing, you '''absolutely have to''' have a heated chamber, or ABS prints will definitely warp and very likely will not stick to kapton tape. In order to construct heated chamber -- cover the front of printer with a piece of plywood or MDF from the workshop and put some cardboard on top of the printer out of extruder path so the heat escapes more slowly. Pre-heating heaated bed for 5 minutes before starting helps X carriage in a lot -- set the Bed temperature to 100C in Octopi temperature tabcorner------ABS Juice: help with sticking (It homes itself to the bed (especially for large prints)*back left corner anyway when bed a print is cool, wipe the kapton tape clean with acetone (I used a paper towel with acetone on itdone)*take a clean paper towel, put acetone on it and wipe a piece of the ABS with it to get some 'ABS juice' on the towel. Then wipe But this over the bed. There should be some failed prints in the 3D printer, or check the mini-can beside the 3D printer for failed prints*allow is to dry completely (~5 minutes), you should see streaks of ABS on prevent the bed. Heat up bed X and print as usual.*ABS should now stick well. Remember to block Y axis rods from sagging over time, especially the build volume to stop air draftsX axis.------ It's better to start ABS prints towards the back of the printer where ambient temperature is more stable. To disable auto-centeringa known problem, in Slic3r Prusa Edition go to File --> Preferences then uncheck 'Auto-center Parts'. First Layer: Fillament: 240 Bed: 100 Bed for large prints: 120I think, use ABS juiceI swear I read it on the internet!! (See above)   Other Layers: Fillament: 235 Bed: 95 Bed for large prints: 110
==Octoprint at
FlashForge Creator X, Pro & Dreamer Nozzle Height Adjustment --
Belt tightening on X and Y axis -
== Maintenance Log ==
!Entry By
| June 12, 2019
| Y-axis appeared to be skipping steps, but we found that there was a set screw loose on the timing pulley on one of the sides, so the whole gantry was driven by the belt on one side only. We tightened the set screw and squared the axis. Also, we flipped the timing belt pulley (hub toward the motor) on the Y axis motor so that the belt doesn't touch the motor flange. It's harder to access but it's tightened well and hopefully you won't have to tighten it again. We also retightened all the other belts for good measure. It works well now.
| Misha
| May 2019
| The feeding tube for the filament is too wide (4 mm ID 6 mm OD) and too stiff as a result. The problem is, it pushes on the print head in one direction so when the axis is loose, it is printing skewed towers of pisa, in the direction in which the tube pushes. We fed the wire without the tube so that there is no extra pressure on the axis. Therefore the printing errors average to zero.
We bought a smaller and less springy tube (also PTFE) but we are waiting for someone more knowledgeable to install it.
| Misha
| Jan 16, 2019
| Loosened the Y-axis short belt, lol. In my zeal I tightened it too much, I guess... (the prints were still drifting back a little, the vertical lines were wobbly...) The belt is good now I think, it should make a low sound when you strum the belt. Also changed the screws holding the Y-stepper, added washer and a rubber ring to keep it in place.
| Rana
| Jan 11, 2019
| Tightened X belt, and the small Y belt that connects the motor to the cross rod. Cleaned and lubricated all rods (X, Y, Z). Lubricated Z lead screw. Lubricated the rod bearings on the X and Y (including that the bearings for the cross rod that connects to two Y long belts). Tightened the coupling on the Y axis stepper motor.
Prints were drifting (aka. leaning) towards the rear of the printer and it was driving me nuts. Turns out this can be due to a loose belt. The replicator and clones are susceptible the Y axis becoming loose because extra torque is outputted by the motor since it has to move the extruder carriage and the X stepper.
I also removed some cobwebs from under the printer electronics.
| Rana
| Nov-Dec, 2018
| The aluminum print bed is warped (bowed, with middle as the high point). After trying to level it five million times, finally hit the printer with a baseball bat and it fixed it. Just kidding. Bought a GO 3D glass plate for the bed and a PEI sheet and a silicone heat transfer mat that keeps it in place.
| Rana
| Aug 8, 2018
| Added Lokbuild surface to print bed. No more tape! see section above for usage info
| Rana
| Jun 13, 2018
| When trying to unload the PLA in the right head -- via the Utilities menu -- the Black PLA would not come out. So eventually just cut that filament (with about 6 inches extra left), to be able to finish working on the Type A printer.
| Allen
[[Category:3D Printers]]