Type A

Type A

This page documents the Type A Series 1 (2013 plywood model).

Type A lives on the third shelf of the 3D printer tower, next to Ultimaker 2

Status

• Operational ... use PETG head only for PETG, and the PLA head only for PLA.
  • PETG printhead in printer -- loaded with 1.75mm Blue iPrint-3D PETG.
• The Buld Plate is no longer perfectly flat. (Small high area, centered on X-axis & bit behind Y-axis center.)
• The Printhead Heatsink Fan is always on ... so don't leave this printer powered on for long periods of time without printing.
• Cura 15 Settings here (see Cura 3 Settings section instead.)
• http://octopi3.hacklab.to/

Features

• Type A Series 1 (2013 plywood model).
• 254 x 230 x 230 mm print volume
• 1.75mm filament
• .4mm nozzle
• As the head uses a Teflon insert, do NOT run at more than 240°C (250°C absolute maximum temp.???)
• It is managed and accessible from the web GUI: http://octopi3.hacklab.to/
• Its manual is at http://bit.ly/1NDToMT (our Head Assembly is different.)

Known Issues and Fixes

• DO NOT do an "Atomic Pull" or "Cold Pull" on this 3D Printer!!! Doing that will break the heatbreak (at the nozzle end).
• Before starting to print, make sure the head heatsink fan is ON. If the connector on the cable came loose, then the filament will jam once that heatsink becomes too hot.
• This Printer has a removable printbed. So before printing, make sure that all 4 screwheads are forward to properly secure the printbed.
  • NOTE: the current printbed has poorly cut "key" slots for the 4 bed screws ... so it takes a bit of patience to remove and re-install it, without trying to force it off or on while doing so.

IMPORTANT: All PETG filaments are not the same. This printer can only use PETG filaments where the maximum recommended printing temperature is 240°C. (MG Chemicals, iPrint-3D, Spool3D.ca & Cyclone Filament are some sources for that.) Most PETG filaments have a maximum recommended temperature of 260°C to 265°C.

Recommended Filament Settings

CURA 3 settings for PLA by Filaments.ca
NOTE: The below settings for PLA are very aggresive -- for all those who can't wait for looong prints to finish. e.g. 75mm/s is the fastest usable speed. If things like print finish and not having small holes/voids in the infill matters, then this might need to be reduced to 50mm/s. Or for printing small minatures, slowing the print speed down to something like 25mm/s might be necessary. Also, slowing the travel speed down to 120mm/s -- instead of 150mm/s -- might help. While things like retraction settings could benefit from further test prints -- to try to find the "best" setting, instead of just a setting that is "close enough to work".
Quality

• Layer Height: use anything from 0.1mm to 0.3mm

Material

• Printing Temperature: 190 °C
• Diameter: 1.75 mm
• Flow: 100 %
• Retraction Distance: 0.65 mm
• Retraction Speed: 40 mm/s

Speed

• Print Speed: 75 mm/s (the other print speeds are calculated from this value)
• Travel Speed 150 mm/s
• Initial Layer Speed: 25 mm/s
• Enable Acceleration Control: SELECTED
  • Print Acceleration: 2000 mm/s (2/3 of the default value)
  • Travel Acceleration: 3000 mm/s (60% of the default value)
• Enable Jerk Control: SELECTED
  • Print Jerk: 20 mm/s (the default value)
  • Travel Jerk: 20 mm/s (set to same as Print Jerk)

Experimental

• Enable Costing: SELECTED (default values used for Coasting)

NOTE: The legacy Cura 15.04.06 settings for PLA can be found in this .ini file:
https://github.com/W1N9Zr0/Ultimaker_Cura_Profile/blob/master/hacklab_typa_profile.ini

CURA 3.4.1 settings for PETG by iPrint3D

PLEASE NOTE: These settings are a work in progress ... additional settings will be added as how to use those settings is worked out.

Quality

• Layer Height: 0.225 mm (Using "Adaptive Layers", so this really means from 0.175mm to 0.275mm)
  ==> Using a Layer Height more than 2.75mm or less than 1.75mm seems to cause a LOT more PETG build-up on the outside of the nozzle.
• Initial Layer Height: 0.3 mm
• Line Width: 0.35 mm (smaller than the 0.4mm nozzle)

Shell

• Wall Thickness: 0 mm (using Wall Line Count instead)
  • Wall Line Count: 3 (3 perimeters seem to work a bit better than 2)
• Top/Bottom Thickness: 1.2 mm (Requires more than for PLA.)
• Top/Bottom Pattern: Zig Zag (To help minimize retractions.)
• Bottom Pattern Initial Layer: Concentric (To get a better bottom surface.)
• Optimize Wall Printing Order: UNSELECTED
• Alternate Extra Wall: SELECTED
• Compensate Wall Overlaps: SELECTED
• Fill Gaps Between Walls: Everywhere
• Filter Out Tiny Gaps: SELECTED
• Print Thin Walls: SELECTED
• Z Seam Alignment: Shortest (Change this as needed.)
• Seam Corner Preference: None (Change this as needed.)
• Extra Skin Wall Count: 1

Infill

• Infill Density: 100% or less, as appropriate
  ==> 100% often used, as PETG is more flexible than PLA. (100% also permits MAXIMUM layer bonding.)
  ==> 25% often used when just want infill to print on top of. (PETG needs a little bit more infill to print over than PLA.)
• Infill Pattern: Zig Zag (To help minimize retractions.)
• Infill Overlap Percentage: 0 (Using Line Width < Nozzle Width instead.)
• Skin Overlap Percentage: 0 (Using Line Width < Nozzle Width instead.)
• Infill Wipe Distance: 0 (Using Line Width < Nozzle Width instead.)
• Infill Before Walls: UNSELECTED (Select this only when needed.)
• Minimum Infill Area: 2 mm² (Can set to 0 -- to not use this setting -- if that seems needed.)

Material

• Printing Temperature: 235 °C (This should be set by the Material settings.)
• Printing Temperature Intitial Layer: 235 °C
• Build Plate Temperature: 0 °C
• Diameter: 1.75 mm (This should be set by the Material settings.)
  ==> if possible, use the actual measured filament dia. -- Otherwise 1.7mm seems a good "best guess" for iPrint-3D PETG.
• Flow: 94 % (I would not want to use anything less than this.)
• Initial Layer Flow: 96 % (To get better buildplate adhesion.)
• Retraction Distance: 0.5 mm (Retraction & Coasting work together.)
• Retraction Speed: 25 mm/s
  • Retraction Retract Speed: 20 mm/s
  • Retraction Prime Speed: 25 mm/s
• Retraction Extra Prime Amount: -0.0005 mm³ (That is a negative value.)
• Retraction Minimum Travel: 1.2 mm (3 Nozzle Width, less than 4 Line Width)
• Maximum Retraction Count: 30 (# is usually for the above Retraction Distance.)
• Limit Support Retractions: UNSELECTED

Speed

• Print Speed: 25 mm/s
  • Infill Speed: 25 mm/s
    ==> Can try 30 to 35 mm/s for prints with larger areas of infill.
    
  • Wall Speed 25 mm/s (Should not actually matter, since really using the Outer Wall & Inner Wall settings.)
    • Outer Wall Speed: 20 mm/s
    • Inner Wall Speed: 25 mm/s
  • Top/Bottom Speed: 20 mm/s
  • Support Speed: 25 mm/s
• Travel Speed 200 mm/s (The maximum travel speed for this printer.)
  ==> Using travel speeds above 200mm/s was contributing to occational X/Y axis layer shifts -- which took months to resolve.
• Initial Layer Speed: 20 mm/s
• Enable Acceleration Control: SELECTED
  • Print Acceleration: 2000 mm/s (2/3 of the default value)
  • Travel Acceleration: 3000 mm/s (60% of the default value)
• Enable Jerk Control: UNSELECTED
  ==> Limiting sudden movement changes permits PETG to build up on outside of head.
  

Travel

• Combing Mode: All
  ==> This sometimes provides *much* faster print times.
  ==> Set to “No Skin” or “Off” only if surface movement lines are a problem.
• Max Comb Distance With No Retract: 2.0 mm (Set to some reasonable value. New in Cura 3.4)
• Retract Before Outer Wall: UNSELECTED
• Avoid Printed Parts When Traveling: SELECTED
• Avoid Supports When Traveling: SELECTED
• Z Hop When Retracted: SELECTED
• Z Hop Only Over Printed Parts: UNSELECTED
• Z Hop Height: 0.5 mm

Cooling

• Enable Print Cooling: UNSELECTED (DON'T use Filament Cooling with PETG!)
• Minimum Layer Time: 10 s

Support

• Generate Support: SELECTED (Unselect this when not needed.)
• Support Placement: Everywhere (Use "Touching Build Plate" when appropriate.)
• Support Overhang Angle: 50 °
• Support Pattern: Lines (Least difficult to remove support type for PETG.)
• Support Wall Line Count: 1 (This makes supports print much better.)
• Support Density: 20% (Needs more than PLA.)
• Support Join Distance: 2.5 mm (Adjust as appropriate.)
• Support Horizontal Expansion: 0.2 mm
• Gradual Support Infill Steps: 0 (Using this is not tested yet.)

Build Plate Adhesion

• Build Plate Adhesion Type: Brim
• Brim Width: 10 mm
• Brim Only on Outside: SELECTED (Select or Unselect as appropriate.)

Special Modes

• Print Sequence: All At Once (This setting seems needed to make other things work.)

Experimental

• Maximum Resolution: 0.01 mm
• Enable Costing: SELECTED
  ==> Costing together with a small retraction seems to works better than using just retractions.
  
• Costing Volume: 0.1 mm³ (aprox. 150% the Cura 3 default value)
• Minimum Volume Before Coasting: 0.8 mm³
• Coasting Speed: 100 %
• Alternate Skin Rotation: SELECTED (UNSELECT this when using Supports.)
• Use Adaptive Layers: SELECTED
• Adaptive Layers Maximum Variation: 0.05 mm
• Adaptive Layers Variation Step Size: 0.01 mm
• Adaptive Layers Threshold: 180 (Default value is 200)
  ==> 180 seems to provide about same quality & speed as using a 0.1mm layer height with PLA on Ultimaker 1.

NOTES:

• For best results printing PETG, do not use the Filament Fan. (Print with the Hotend Heatsink Fan only.) When the Filament Fan is used, expect layer separation problems. When printed without using a Filament Fan, PETG has exceptional layer bonding.
• As a filament type, PETG is terrible at things like steep overhangs and bridging. This includes you might need just a bit more top surface over infill to get a smooth outer layer. (Or just use a slightly higher infill %.)
• That PETG likes to to buildup on the outside of the print nozzle is a major problem with this filament type. This has a lot to so with how all PETG is "stringy". (Some makes/brands are worse than others.) So as the hot nozzle moves through any spiderweb thin strands between printed parts, PETG filament builds up on the nozzle. (And eventually may drop onto the print, as a possibly print ruining blob of plastic.) For that reason, any print that could be described as a "highly shaped bock of plastic" should work well. But prints where the head constantly moves over open air -- with no plastic under the nozzle & creating many strands -- are more likely to fail.
• These settings use a 0.35mm line width out of a 0.4mm nozzle, instead of all the other overlaps which would also contribute to PETG trying to build up on the outside of the nozzle.

Cura 3 Settings for this Printer

In Cura 3.4.1, to use the below settings, create a Custom FDM printer, then edit the Machine Settings for that printer to contain the following:
... PRINTER TAB
Printer Settings

• X (Width): 254 mm
• Y (Depth): 230 mm
• Z (Height): 230 mm
• Build plate shape: Rectangular
• Origin at center: UNSELECTED
• Heated bed: UNSELECTED
• Gcode Flavor: Marlin

Printhead Settings

• X min: 30 mm
• Y min: 30 mm
• X max: 55 mm
• Y max: 60 mm
• Gantry height: 110.0 mm
• Number of Extruders: 1

Start Gcode

 ;Sliced at: {day} {date} {time}
 G21        ;metric values
 G90        ;absolute positioning
 M82        ;set extruder to absolute mode
 M107       ;start with the fan off
 G28 X0 Y0  ;move X/Y to min endstops
 G28 Z0     ;move Z to min endstops
 G1 Z15.0 F{travel_speed} ;move the platform down 15mm
 G92 E0                  ;zero the extruded length
 G1 F200 E3              ;extrude 3mm of feed stock
 G92 E0                  ;zero the extruded length again
 G1 F{travel_speed}
 M117 Printing...

End Gcode

 ;End GCode
 M104 S0                     ;extruder heater off
 M140 S0                     ;heated bed heater off (if you have it)
 G91                                    ;relative positioning
 G1 E-1 F300                            ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure
 G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F{travel_speed} ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more
 G28 X0 Y0                              ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way
 M84                         ;steppers off
 G90                         ;absolute positioning

... EXTRUDER 1 TAB

• Nozzle size: 0.4 mm
• Compatible Material diameter: 1.75 mm

Machine Log

Date	Notes	Entry By
June 28, 2020	This Machine has been retired, it was taken home during the HL2 => HL3 by a member. This was with the consent of the hacklab membership.	Revident
November 14, 2018	Had repeated/ongoing LAYER SHIFT problems with a large "lot of movements" print. Snugged the screws to hold the plate on, as it was moving. Tightened the printhead gantry screws. Several have nuts pulling through, so need to glue that part of the printer. Retention both belts, by adding a printed piece onto each belt. Still getting some Layer Shifts, so will have to try 120mm/s travel speed next. (Instead of 200mm/s) Discovered the Print Bed Plate is no longer flat. (Small high area, centered on X-axis & bit behind Y-axis.)	Allen
September 20, 2018	Had a LAYER SHIFT happen on a (physically) large print. Found that the right Y-axis belt is looser ... and I cannot get it any tighter. Printed and installed this ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:261120 ) on the belt itself, to tweek the tension just a bit tighter Did a quick print, to check the printer is actually fixed. (Only had time for 20mm cube.)	Allen
September 19, 2018	The PETG p4rinthead DIED. broken wires due to wires flexing right at the Heater connector. Also, again getting erratic flow or PETG out of the printhead. Used the PLA head, with the nozzle from the PETG head, to "remake" a PETG printhead. Short bit of heat-shrink used to provide strain relief were wires go into heater connector. Teflon in heatbreak was 5mm toooo short, as the larger bore in the Heatsink goes 5mm beyond the end of the M6 threads. Craft knife to cut the 5mm pushed out Teflon from a dead heatbreak, then put that into heatsink area above M6 threads. Heat hotend block w/ heatbreak screwed in to 200C, then carefully push Teflon all way back into heatbreak. Finish assembly & testing this "rebuilt, for PETG" printhead. NOTE: This is now the "last functioning" printhead for the Type A. (Until get more connector crimp contacts, to remake another head). HINDSIGHT: I actually put the heatbreak in upside down! Putting the heatbreak in with the metal cap UP would leave a 5mm air-gap at the top of the printhead, which is NOT suitable for flexible filaments, but should work for the filaments HackLab is using right now.	Allen
September 4, 2018	Bring in roll of my own PETG, and unclog printhead. (Was not badly clogged.) Then did many hours of printing, so printer is working as it should. Flipped the plastic build plate over while putting on a 3M 2090 Tape sheet. Top nuts to adjust springs that hold plate still need to be tweaked. (Back/Right spring is tooo tight.)	Allen
August 29, 2018	Problems setting zero-stop. Center of plastic build plate could be warped just slightly. Will flip the plate over, while putting a sheet of 2090 blue tape down the center next week. PETG ran out, and print proceeded for maybe as much as 1/2 hour. Will bring in more PETG, and clear/clean the PETG head next week.	Allen
June 2018 (rest of)	Keep trying to use small files, to get the *mangled* key-hole slots close enough that the new build plate will come off without "fighting with it". Zero Stop tweaked.	Allen
June 19, 2018	Use a small half-round file, to get the Key Hole slots closer to what was in the original Plexiglas build plate. Test further, and tweek Bed Leveling.	Allen
June 13, 2018	Replaced the warped build plate using a slab of plastic (Plexiglas?) that was salvaged from an old scanner. Correctly set the Zero Stop, so that prints now should "just print" ... with NO need to manually adjust the z-height for the 1st layer.	Allen
March 15, 2018	After printing over 20 hours of work, there are NO x-axis or y-axis shifts to all those prints, so this printer finally seems fixed.	Allen
February 28, 2018	STILL GETTING LARGE X-AXIS SHIFTS! Next week, I may have to check that both stepper drivers are at the below voltages. (To make sure I didn't adjust the wrong driver board pot.) Moving the Head back & forth along the X-Axis (with the power off), it seems to be catching/binding as it goes side-to-side. Adjust the X-Axis right pulley screw again. (Slowly tightening it this time.) After several tries to adjust this, the X belt suddenly has good tension again, and the head now moves smoothly side-to-side. Then was able to get a multi-hour print that came out perfectly, with no layer shift. ... So this might finally be fixed.	Allen
February 27, 2018	The Y axis REF voltage was upped from 0.316V to 0.368V. This should correspond to a current increase from 250mA to 295mA. Use SuperLube to carefully lubricate all the rods & the Z-axis screw.	Allen
February 14, 2018	After about 6hrs of printing perfectly, suddenly get a large x-axis shift again. This video uses a different driver board -- but provides an EXCELLENT way to measure the Ref. Voltage for the driver current. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XU6lgFeZ7ZQ This photo proveides info. about the G3D Drive Board that is used in this printer. http://reprap.org/wiki/File:G3d_11.jpg The REF voltage was upped from 0.5V to 0.64V This should correspond to a current increase from 625mA to 800mA FAILED AGAIN, this time with a large y-axis shift ... so apparently that stepper driver also needs to be adjusted.	Allen
February 13, 2018	When 1st tried using, attempting to move the X-axis often just made ugly noises. (Will not move all way to the right side.) Spent hours adjusting the X-axis belts to even get this to print. (Belt not lined up problems, etc..) Then spent hours more continuing to make tiny adjustments, to get a print that finally did not have any x-axis shift. All of this ended up leaving the x-axis belt a bit looser than I would like ATRAIN advised that it seemed like the stepper current needed to be increased.	Allen
February 08, 2018	Tighten the X-axis Belts yet again. (Really tighten, and use old white glue on/behind washer to prevent slipping.) Update the firmware for the final PID values. // AluHotend E3Dv6 #define DEFAULT_Kp 8.66 #define DEFAULT_Ki 1.02 #define DEFAULT_Kd 48.80 NOTE: had to leave this in what I hoped was working order, as the glue should be left to dry for 24hrs.	Allen
December 14, 2017	Assemble & Test the 2nd head assembly for PLA.	Allen
December 13, 2017	Suddenly have constant layer shifts due to LOOSE BELTS. (Very loose, both X & Y.) Tighten all 3 Belts for X/Y movement. Once X belt tight, spot that an M2 or M3 screw into the plywood slot, could be used to prevent the washers from moving. Use cut-off nails to "pin" the washers for the assembly to tighten the 2 Y belts.	Allen
December 07, 2017	AGAIN suddenly have a layer shifts due to LOOSE BELT. (X belt very loose again) Tighten the X belt yet again.	Allen
November 08, 2017	Suddenly have constant layer shifts due to LOOSE BELTS. (Very loose, both X & Y.) Tighten all 3 Belts for X/Y movement. The 2 Y Belts will continue to loosen due to how the front plywood piece is warping.	Allen
November 07, 2017	Replace Nozzle with a REAL E3D Nozzle, and tighten to stop PETG leaking. (Took only 1 try to properly tighten using the REAL E3D Nozzle.)	Allen
November 02, 2017	PETG is again leaking out between the Nozzle & the Heatblock. Tried tightening this 3 times ... still leaking ... waiting for REAL E3D Nozzle to try again.	Allen
October 12, 2017	Print & Install a 50mm Radial to 40mm Axial Fan adapter. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:891740 Uses the same Molex Connector as the Printhead heater. Positioned Radial Fan air out so Heatsink Fan is not in the way. a PETG Test Print was done using this ... does not cool down head too much ... but a heat-block Silicone Sock is desirable.	Allen
August 30, 2017	Correctly Tighten the Heatbreak & Nozzle to stop PETG leaking out. Back off snug Nozzle by at most 1/4 turn. Heat up the head to 240°C (PETG printing Temp.) Tighten the Heatbreak into the Heatblock, to stop PETG leaking out of that. Cap off block holding Groovemount ... so can rotate entire head assembly. Then a wrench on ends of Heatblock, & turn that. Tighten the Nozzle against the end of the Tefflon Insert in the Heatbreak. Print a Filament Guide to assist filament feeding smoothly into the Extruder. ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:33894 )	Allen
August 29, 2017	Printed a Fan Duct for the AluHotend using PETG. ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:664033 ) Wired a 25mmx7mm 12V Heatsink Fan to the "always on" 12V LED strip.	Allen
August 21, 2017	Updated firmware using "stock" firmware with just some configuration changes w/ help from Igor, troubleshoot problems with new head. (BAD thermistor.) Crimp Molex Connectors onto the 2nd head that we have. Head Temp.'s seem to oscillate plus/minus 10°C !!! Run PID auto-tuning, to determine values that will provide stable head temperatures. Had to completely unplug this printer (including USB) for a couple of min. to get auto-tuning to stop continuously running. Set the "good" values that were written down into Octoprint. (Will flash those values into firmware next.) Was not able to get the PETG to stop leaking out between the Heatbreak & the Heater Block. (Not willing to risk breaking another Heatbreak.) Finally resorted to using some ABS filament where the Heatbreak comes out of the Block to seal that.	Allen
August 10, 2017	The correct Molex Connectors were finally crimped onto one of the AluHotend/E3Dv6 (from China) heads. NOW the Firmware needs to be updated to use this new head. A 3rd head is also on its way from China. (Already have 5 sets of the needed connectors for the head.)	Allen
July 13, 2017	Have a 2nd AluHotend/E3Dv6 hot end for this printer. So multiple easy to change print heads (1 per filament type?) are now possible.	Allen
July 4, 2017	Using information from the Internet ( https://www.summet.com/blog/2013/09/09/makergear-hot-end-molex-connectors/ ) order 5 sets of connectors for the Type A head from DigiKey. Unable to successfully crimp the small connectors for the Type A printhead. Now the 1 spare set of crimp contacts is ruined, work stopped until the correct crimp tool can somehow be obtained. NOTE: Since the Type A uses a special theristor, I do not want to cut the connector off of that.	Allen
June 22, 2017	While trying to fit Hotend Heatsink Cooling Fan, the Nichrome wire broke off right where it goes into the circular ceramic. Now must rebuild using a E3D v6 Head. (As purchased, on the AluHotend heatbreak.) Per instructions on the Internet, that will require changed/custom firmware.	Allen
June 17, 2017	All Rods & the screw were lubricated using Silicone based lubricants. Started to hear concerning "clicking" noises from the left back ... possibly related to Y-Axis movement.	Allen
June 13-14, 2017	New PTFE lined 35mm Heatbreak & New Head used to reassemble the printhead ONLY an extra heatsink on the Metal Grovemount block is NOT adequate. So a fan for the AluHotend heatsink will be necessary . PLA will JAM due to Hotend heat creep making the AluHotend heat sink too hot. (Must remove Grovemount head to clear.) PETG works, but if the fan is left off, eventually it can also stop feeding. (PETG jam easily cleared w/o removing head.) Finding exactly the correct settings to make the MG Chemicals PETG filament work well is extremely time consuming. NOTE: The listed MG Chemicals PETG temp. range is 210°C to 240°C ... which is as much as 20° less than some other PETG filaments. Molten (PETG) filament was leaking from where the Nozzle screws onto the Heatbreak. It required 3 trys to get the head tightened enough to stop that leakage.	Allen
May 24, 2017	1st attempt to replace Grovemount & Heatbreak ended with a broken part. The needed parts are on order. (Aprox. 30 days from China.) Everything was installed and working briefly before the cracked heatbreak broke. Trying to use the installed Heatsink & Thermal Compound on the Metal Extruder block, instead of a fan on the small metal Grovemount fins. (This rebuild will be simpler if a 2nd fan is not needed.)	Allen
April 28, 2017	Un-Jammed the filament in the print-head. (Jammed in the black quickmount part?) Can push the filament through by hand. (Almost breaking filament using that much force.) But will *not* extrude properly. So something is not moving freely in the quickmount head assembly.	Allen
March 28, 2017	Tried to print, but machine is under-extruding like crazy. The first layer did not lay down, the filament came out like small blobs instead of a constant stream, even at 115% flowrate. I will order a new brass head and teflon tube from china.	ran0
February 18, 2017	as per @Myles: OctoPi3 is working if you need to use a 3D printer.	MikeP
January 2017	Attempted cleaning nozzle, printer still under-extruding	ran0
January 28 2016	The X (and to a lesser degree the Y) axis are skipping and it ends up offset. Tightened the belts. All good.	alaina
January 1 2016	Print head not extruding. Mechanics and octopi commands seem to be working fine, but filament does not extrude from print head. Also, the Z axis is off a little, and home is slightly too close to the print head. Easily adjusted by hand.	emmy (saskeah)
January 2 2016	On Igor's advice, I tried pushing through some filament (with the hot end at 185C), and it came through just fine. The pinch wheel needs to be cleaned before using, using the compressed air and little metal brushes by the soldering station. On my to do list (hopefully before end of Tuesday) is to clean out the print head using Igor's "cold push" method, clean the pinch wheel, adjust the Z axis, and re-tape the bed, then print a calibration object to make sure all is good. Also, if anyone else does all of this and wants to print - just a note that the 1.75 inch filament is *super* brittle, so be careful!	emmy (saskeah)
January 2 2016	Cold push clean out of extruder head done, extruder doesn't seem to be blocked. Next step is to clean out the pinch wheel, which is on my to-do before Tuesday, unless someone else feels like taking that on.	emmy (saskeah)
January 3 2016	Pinch wheel cleaned with compressed air. Bed re-taped and cleaned with isopropyl alcohol. Cold push clean of extruder head repeated for good measure (and during a sticky moment unicycledave took the head apart and removed some extra gunk). Z axis adjusted. Attempted a calibration object, z axis held bed too far from the print head. Attempted again with adjustment, print head was too close and scraped the tape. Good news: printer totally functional. Bad news: Z axis still needs tweaking, and part of the bed needs to be re-taped again.	emmy (saskeah)
January 4 2016	Bed re-taped, z axis double-checked. Type A gets my stamp of approval - good to go!	emmy (saskeah)
January 10 2016	Did a test print that came out perfectly calibrated, but with some relatively minor gaps in extrusion.	emmy (saskeah)
January 17 2016	Tried another test print that came out with more pronounced gaps in extrusion. Tried a calibration cube at 220 C, and it came out well. Downloaded the new version of Cura and used the default presets to print another test cube. The presets are fairly different from the previous version, and the test print came out perfectly.	emmy (saskeah)

Parts and Supplies Wish List

• Connector Parts needed to finish other 2 Printheads -- and also to try different filament cooling fans.
  • 3 pieces of: https://www.digikey.ca/products/en?keywords=Wm1845-ND (Have 2 of these.)
  • 20 pieces of: https://www.digikey.ca/products/en?keywords=Wm1837CT-ND (Have 4 of these.)
  • 8 pieces of: https://www.digikey.ca/products/en?keywords=Wm1855-ND (Have 2 of these. Also for cooling fan.)
  • 50 pieces of: https://www.digikey.ca/products/en?keywords=Wm1841CT-ND (Have NONE of these. Also for cooling fan.)

PLEASE NOTE: These connectors are extremely difficult to crimp in a manner they work. So at least double the crimp-connector parts are needed to get solid/working connectors.

• www.aliexpress.com/item/A-Funssor-Silicone-Socks-for-v6-hotend-SILICONE-HEATER-BLOCK-COVER-Heater-Block-Silicone-Insulation-Blue/32823079702.html
  • 3pcs (for the 3 Printheads that were purchased), shipped by ePacket (becomes XpressPost in Canada.)
  • This is the correct Silicone Sock for the "made in China" E3D clone heat-block that we are using.