Ultimaker Operation Manual: Difference between revisions

From Hacklab.TO Public Wiki
Jump to navigation Jump to search
m (1 revision: Import 3D printer articles)
 
(Removed dead instructions)
 
(5 intermediate revisions by 2 users not shown)
Line 1: Line 1:
This page holds instructions for transfering G-Code and doing the print jobs on the Ultimaker. For generating the G-Code see [[Ultimaker Slicing Page]].
This page holds instructions for transferring G-Code and doing the print jobs on the Ultimakers. For generating the G-Code see [[Ultimaker Slicing Page]].


== Overview ==
== Overview ==
Currently, the working Ultimaker is hooked up to a RaspberryPi sitting on the small workbench behind the bar.
[[File:OctoPrint_Screenshot.png|300px|thumb|A screenshot of the OctoPrint web GUI]]
Currently, the working Ultimakers are hooked up to RaspberryPis sitting on the 3D Printer rack in The Hub, next to the Shop door.


Until Rob fixes his cloudslicer project (which is already totally sweet but only runs Slic3r for the moment), the procedure is to generate G-Code on your computer or the hacklab public computer with Cura and then upload the gcode to the RaspberryPi and run pronsole via SSH to serve it to the ultimaker.
The procedure is to generate G-Code on your computer or the Hacklab public computer with Cura and then upload the G-Code to the RaspberryPi using the OctoPrint web GUI.


== Checklist ==
== Checklist ==
# Check there's no damage to the blue tape on the platform. If there is, unpower the ultimaker and replace it as it will cause you grief later. '''Do not cover the screws with tape on the platform'''.
# Check there's no damage to the blue tape on the platform. If there is, unpower the Ultimaker and replace it as it will cause you grief later. '''Do not cover the screws with tape on the platform'''.
# RaspberryPi is powered
# RaspberryPi is powered
# Ultimaker is powered
# Ultimaker is powered
# USB cable to Ultimaker is plugged into RaspberryPi (Blue light comes on)
# USB cable to Ultimaker is plugged into RaspberryPi (Blue light comes on)
# Generate G-Code [[Ultimaker Slicing Page]]
# Generate G-Code [[Ultimaker Slicing Page]]
# Transfer G-Code to RaspberryPi (SCP)
# Visit the OctoPrint interface: http://octopi.hacklab.to/ and http://octopi2.hacklab.to/ for the [[Ultimaker 1]] and [[Ultimaker 2]], respectively.
# SSH into RaspberryPi
# The interface should connect automatically, but if it doesn't press the Connect button and wait for a connection.
# You will be automatically logged into a shared screen session. This simplifies multi-user stuff. Also, things won't break if you loose your internet connection.
# Upload your G-Code via the interface.
# You will be automatically logged into pronsole. The version is custom (we are waiting on a merge).
# Select your file, and click the Print icon.
# Enter "connect" at prompt
# Make sure that the temperature is set to what the printer is rated for (210°C at the time of this writing)
# Watch for printer to initialize
# The printer will automatically start printing once temperature is achieved.
# Load g-code file "load <file>"
# '''Be careful.''' If there is no plastic or seems to have spotty flowing, stop and cool it down. The Bowden cable may have come loose, PLA material shattered inside the tubing, the feeding gears lost traction on the plastic, or something else might be happening.
# Heat up extruder with "settemp 220"
# '''Watch heat''' using "gettemp"
# Wait about '''1.0 - 1.5 minutes''' once at temperature
# Extrude 1mm at a time until ooze seems connected to your command "extrude 1"
#* Be careful. If after 5mm the plastic doesn't seem to be flowing, stop and cool it down. The Bowden cable may have come loose again or something else might be happening.
# Run print "print"
# Finish by using "exit"


If at any time the printer needs to cease printing, run "pause" and then "reset" from pronsole. Move the bed out of the way by running "move z 20" so you can remove the half-printed model. '''In emergencies, disconnect the power and data to the Ultimaker''' (note this will require resetting the rasberry pi)
If at any time the printer needs to cease printing, cancel the job from OctoPrint. Move the bed out of the way by clicking on the Control tab and pushing the Z up arrow twice (if set to 10), so you can remove the half-printed model. '''In emergencies, disconnect the power and data to the Ultimaker''' (note this will require resetting the rasberry pi)


'''Remember to disconnect or turn the printer off!!''' If left on for extended periods at high temperature, the extruder will clog with burnt plastic and will require extensive repairs. Do '''NOT''' use screen unless you can devote your night to babysitting the printer.
'''Remember to disconnect or turn the printer off!!''' If left on for extended periods at high temperature, the extruder will clog with burnt plastic and will require extensive repairs. Do '''NOT''' use screen unless you can devote your night to babysitting the printer.
== SSH ==
The RaspberryPi running the ultimaker is accessed at ultimaker.hacklab.to or 192.168.111.23
User is: <code>hacklab</code>
Password is: <code>hacklab</code>
== SCP ==
Upload G-Code using SCP or WinSCP if you need to.
<code>scp <your file>.gcode hacklab@ultimaker.hacklab.to:</code>
Let's try to keep the main folder uncluttered so if you're using the Ultimaker a lot, please make your own folder /home/hacklab/<username> and stick stuff in there. The RaspberryPi does have limited space so clean up after yourselves. We might use LDAP or simple SSH mounts to your shell.hacklab.to user accounts soon.
== pronsole ==
The in-terminal help function is very useful. More details to come if people need it.




Latest revision as of 16:14, 27 September 2015

This page holds instructions for transferring G-Code and doing the print jobs on the Ultimakers. For generating the G-Code see Ultimaker Slicing Page.

Overview

A screenshot of the OctoPrint web GUI

Currently, the working Ultimakers are hooked up to RaspberryPis sitting on the 3D Printer rack in The Hub, next to the Shop door.

The procedure is to generate G-Code on your computer or the Hacklab public computer with Cura and then upload the G-Code to the RaspberryPi using the OctoPrint web GUI.

Checklist

  1. Check there's no damage to the blue tape on the platform. If there is, unpower the Ultimaker and replace it as it will cause you grief later. Do not cover the screws with tape on the platform.
  2. RaspberryPi is powered
  3. Ultimaker is powered
  4. USB cable to Ultimaker is plugged into RaspberryPi (Blue light comes on)
  5. Generate G-Code Ultimaker Slicing Page
  6. Visit the OctoPrint interface: http://octopi.hacklab.to/ and http://octopi2.hacklab.to/ for the Ultimaker 1 and Ultimaker 2, respectively.
  7. The interface should connect automatically, but if it doesn't press the Connect button and wait for a connection.
  8. Upload your G-Code via the interface.
  9. Select your file, and click the Print icon.
  10. Make sure that the temperature is set to what the printer is rated for (210°C at the time of this writing)
  11. The printer will automatically start printing once temperature is achieved.
  12. Be careful. If there is no plastic or seems to have spotty flowing, stop and cool it down. The Bowden cable may have come loose, PLA material shattered inside the tubing, the feeding gears lost traction on the plastic, or something else might be happening.

If at any time the printer needs to cease printing, cancel the job from OctoPrint. Move the bed out of the way by clicking on the Control tab and pushing the Z up arrow twice (if set to 10), so you can remove the half-printed model. In emergencies, disconnect the power and data to the Ultimaker (note this will require resetting the rasberry pi)

Remember to disconnect or turn the printer off!! If left on for extended periods at high temperature, the extruder will clog with burnt plastic and will require extensive repairs. Do NOT use screen unless you can devote your night to babysitting the printer.


Troubleshooting

  • No plastic is being extruded
    1. The bed may be too close to the extruder. This is very very bad as it can cause the bowden cable to build up pressure and eventually tear itself loose.
      • Relevel the bed using the adjustment screws
      • Check the endstop for the Z axis to make sure it's still homing to where the nozzle is just barely hitting the bed in the center.
  • Printer never connects or only spits out crazy symbols
    1. "exit" then restart pronsole. Now run "connect 115200" or "connect 230400"
    2. If that doesn't work, depower everything and restart
  • Nothing is sticking to the platform
    1. Some unsticking is alright but if more than about 5% of the starting layer isn't sticking there may be a problem
      • Replace the tape on the bed
      • Relevel the bed
      • If the bed seems like you can push up one end and the whole bed flexes instead of moving as a whole, there may need to be some screw retightening.
  • Print doesn't look good
    1. Platform may need leveling
    2. Z axis may need greasing
    3. Contribute to some tuning of the G-code profiles at Ultimaker Slicing Page
Retrieved from "https://knowledge.hacklab.to//index.php?title=Ultimaker_Operation_Manual&oldid=814"