Ultimaker 1

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Ultimaker #1, also known as "Guy"

This page documents Ultimaker #1 (Guy). The printer lives on the bottom shelf of the 3D printer tower.


  • Operational
  • Last known good settings: 220°, 110% flow, print 60mm/s, travel 120mm/s, 0.4 mm nozzle size, 2.85mm filament size.
  • Light Green 2.85mm PLA
  • Works well using Blue painter’s tape without using the heated bed. (Same setup as Ultimaker 2)
  • Cura 15 Settings here
  • http://octopi.hacklab.to/

Known Issues and Fixes[edit]

  • IMPORTANT: OctoPrint will disconnect from Ultimaker 2 if Ultimaker 1 is powered on. If you want to print on both (or will want to eventually), power both on before starting your print on Ultimaker 2
  • For better results, wipe the Blue Tape Sheet with Isopropyl Alcohol a few minutes before starting to print.
  • If a large solid area is under-extruding then try printing at 220° and 110% Flow. For the PLA/PHA also use 100% fill. (Or figure out the correct retraction settings for that filament.)
  • To easily change the filament, rotate this printer 90° -- so that the filament spool points towards the shop door end of the shelving.


  • Ultimaker Original with extruder drive upgrade
  • 210 x 210 x 205 mm print volume
  • 2.85mm filament
  • Absolute max temperature: 250 C
  • Heated bed for ABS (on second power supply)
  • It is managed and accessible from the web GUI: http://octopi.hacklab.to/

Machine Log[edit]

Date Notes Entry By
Jul 3, 2017
  • Replaced the filament cooling fan duct using the following printed parts: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:17768 and https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:156119
    • The fan screws were too short for this, so for now the fan is held in place by only 1 screw, until a few more longer M3 screws can be found.
  • At the very back of the print area, the fan might still hit the rounded screw heads holding the print bed. Flat head screws have been obtained, so the 4 heatbed screws will be replaced next.
Jun 7, 2017 Stopped Extruding! ... Something like a C-clip has been lost on the Geared/Knerled shaft. .... For now use a copper wire to hold that shaft in place. The proper part needs to be obtained and installed. Allen
Jun 7, 2017 Lubricate the Z screw using Superlube Synthetic Grease. Allen
Jun 7, 2017 Heat bed still "cuts out" and drops to about 28°C after less than an hour of printing. Allen
Jun 7, 2017 Switched bed heater to the second relay on the breakout board, it verks! Igor
May 30, 2017
  • Also switched the input wires over to the other relay on this board. "No Joy".
  • While doing that, found & fixed a broken solder joint on an output pin of the originally used relay.
    • That broken solder joint most likely was causing the intermittent we are trying to fix.
Apr 20, 2017
  • Y-axis shift of a print -- only to discover y-axis Stepper motor is really loose. Tighten screws, while making a "best guess" of what the belt tension should be.
  • Also tighten all of the other screws on this printer that I can see & can get to. (Many were loose.)
  • Lubricate X & Y axis rods using NCR Silicone Fluid. (Was a bit stiff to move head by hand. Now moving freely.)
  • Try moving only the relay outputs for the Head Bed to the 2nd relay on the same board. "No Joy." Will still need to find & move the control input to the 2nd relay as well.
  • Try a "Painters Tape Sheet" on the heat bed. Working very well with PLA/PHA.
  • Small tweek to leveling of the (very flat) Aluminum Heat Bed.
Mid-2016 Nozzle cleaned, Bowden coupler springs replaced. Prints well. Use "ABS juice" to stick ABS prints to bare bed. Prints PLA onto blue tape perfectly as well. Igor
Jan 28, 2016 THE QUARTERBACK IS TOAST. This printer isn't working. The extruder is spinning but not pushing ABS through. I've done as much troubleshooting as I can without risking screwing stuff up. I've sent a query to the mailing list. alaina
June 8, 2013 Added tool holder onto side of Ultimaker Norm
May 14, 2013 Tensioned X/Y belts, switched to white PLA and tested new experimental settings. Readjusted Z bed height, printed stuff. Norm
May 11, 2013 Rod endcaps removed, threadlock (blue) applied to the M3 screws and setscrews locked into place to prevent loosening.

Lubricated Z axis and gantry system.
Experimented with white PLA, requires special settings. Returned to orange PLA.

May 1, 2013 Printed and mounted new Z home switch retaining mechanism and calibrated. Z homing much more accurate.

Observed further inconsistent extrusion, further investigation found online that the knurled bolt is only useful for the last 3 mm nearest the groove for the delrin clip. Adjusted bolt positioning to move good knurling into position, no further grinding or slipping observed, consistent solid extrusion demonstrated.

April 30, 2013 Installed new e-panel composite based build platform. Geordie
April 29, 2013 Printed and installed new extruder feed gear to reduce backlash during retraction.

Observed inconsistent extrusion. Small gaps appearing in extrusion, yet full infill occurring on layers otherwise (ie: not clogged).
Investigation pointing towards slipping knurled bolt in feeder, or more likely, old wet PLA causing problems.

April 27, 2013 Print quality degraded significantly mid-print. Hot end disassembled, burnt PLA removed from brass tube, and dust/dirt removed from teflon-PEEK interface. Print quality returned to normal. Clogged again, cleaned more thoroughly this time. (Used 1/8" drill bit to handheld scrape out burnt PLA very carefully.

PLA diameter changed.

April 24, 2013 Squeaking noise observed from Y axis axle.

Endcap inset screw noticed to be loose, requires new endcap to be printed, and screw not to be overtightened.

April 12, 2013 Bed leveling assist tool printed and built. Norm
April 8, 2013 Belts retensioned, new bearing endcaps installed to reduce backlash further. Norm
April 6, 2013 Z axis calibration fixed, Z steps/mm in new profile on Git.

X/Y axis backlash observed, infill not meeting walls, delamination observed.

March 31, 2013 Z axis calibration issues observed.

25mm Test cube showed ~6.8% Z axis error.