Type A: Difference between revisions
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(→Machine Log: update for work done.) |
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!Entry By | !Entry By | ||
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|September 4, 2018 | |||
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* Bring in roll of my own PETG, and unclog printhead. (Was not badly clogged.) | |||
** Then did many hours of printing, so printer is working as it should. | |||
* Flipped the plastic build plate over while putting on a 3M 2090 Tape sheet. | |||
** Top nuts to adjust springs that hold plate still need to be tweaked. (Back/Right spring is tooo tight.) | |||
|Allen | |||
|- | |||
|August 29, 2018 | |August 29, 2018 | ||
| Line 203: | Line 213: | ||
* PETG ran out, and print proceeded for maybe as much as 1/2 hour. | * PETG ran out, and print proceeded for maybe as much as 1/2 hour. | ||
** Will bring in more PETG, and clear/clean the PETG head next week. | ** Will bring in more PETG, and clear/clean the PETG head next week. | ||
|Allen | |||
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| | | | ||
* Keep trying to use small files, to get the *mangled* key-hole slots close enough that the new build plate will come off without "fighting with it". | * Keep trying to use small files, to get the *mangled* key-hole slots close enough that the new build plate will come off without "fighting with it". | ||
* Zero Stop | * Zero Stop tweaked. | ||
|Allen | |Allen | ||
|- | |- | ||
| Line 237: | Line 247: | ||
** Next week, I may have to check that both stepper drivers are at the below voltages. (To make sure I didn't adjust the wrong driver board pot.) | ** Next week, I may have to check that both stepper drivers are at the below voltages. (To make sure I didn't adjust the wrong driver board pot.) | ||
* Moving the Head back & forth along the X-Axis (with the power off), it seems to be catching/binding as it goes side-to-side. | * Moving the Head back & forth along the X-Axis (with the power off), it seems to be catching/binding as it goes side-to-side. | ||
* | * Adjust the X-Axis right pulley screw '''again'''. (Slowly tightening it this time.) | ||
** After several tries to adjust this, the X belt suddenly has good tension again, and the head now moves smoothly side-to-side. | ** After several tries to adjust this, the X belt suddenly has good tension again, and the head now moves smoothly side-to-side. | ||
** Then was able to get a multi-hour print that came out perfectly, with no layer shift. ... So this might finally be fixed. | ** Then was able to get a multi-hour print that came out perfectly, with no layer shift. ... So this might finally be fixed. | ||
Revision as of 20:13, 7 September 2018
This page documents the Type A Series 1 (2013 plywood model).
Type A lives on the third shelf of the 3D printer tower, next to Ultimaker 2
Status
- Operational ... use PETG head only for PETG, and the PLA head only for PLA.
- PETG head is in printer ... but new PETG roll will not be at HackLab until evening of Mon. Sept. 10th.
- The Printhead Heatsink Fan is always on ... so don't leave this printer powered on for long periods of time without printing.
- Loaded with 1.75mm Filaments.ca Black PLA
- Cura 15 Settings here (see Cura 3 Settings section instead.)
- http://octopi3.hacklab.to/
Features
- Type A Series 1 (2013 plywood model).
- 254 x 230 x 230 mm print volume
- 1.75mm filament
- .4mm nozzle
- As the head uses a Teflon insert, do NOT run at more than 240°C (250°C absolute maximum temp.???)
- It is managed and accessible from the web GUI: http://octopi3.hacklab.to/
- Its manual is at http://bit.ly/1NDToMT (our Head Assembly is different.)
Known Issues and Fixes
- DO NOT USE Isopropyl Alcohol on the IPG Blue Tape. (On any other make of Blue Tape using that is fine.)
- Before starting to print, make sure the head heatsink fan is ON. If the connector on the cable came loose, then the filament will jam once that heatsink becomes too hot.
- This Printer has a removable printbed. So before printing, make sure that all 4 screwheads are forward to properly secure the printbed.
- NOTE: the current printbed has poorly cut "key" slots for the 4 bed screws ... so it takes a bit of patience to remove and re-install it, without trying to force it off or on while doing so.
IMPORTANT: All PETG filaments are not the same. This printer can only use PETG filaments where the maximum recommended printing temperature is 240°C. (MG Chemicals, iPrint-3D, Spool3D.ca & Cyclone Filament are some sources for that.) Most PETG filaments have a maximum recommended temperature of 260°C to 265°C.
Recommended Filament Settings
CURA 3 settings for PLA by Filaments.ca
NOTE: The below settings for PLA are very aggresive -- for all those who can't wait for looong prints to finish. e.g. 75mm/s is the fastest usable speed. If things like print finish and not having small holes/voids in the infill matters, then this might need to be reduced to 50mm/s. Or for printing small minatures, slowing the print speed down to something like 25mm/s might be necessary. Also, slowing the travel speed down to 120mm/s -- instead of 150mm/s -- might help. While things like retraction settings could benefit from further test prints -- to try to find the "best" setting, instead of just a setting that is "close enough to work".
Quality
- Layer Height: use anything from 0.1mm to 0.3mm
Material
- Printing Temperature: 190 °C
- Diameter: 1.75 mm
- Flow: 100 %
- Retraction Distance: 0.65 mm
- Retraction Speed: 40 mm/s
Speed
- Print Speed: 75 mm/s (the other print speeds are calculated from this value)
- Travel Speed 150 mm/s
- Initial Layer Speed: 25 mm/s
- Enable Acceleration Control: SELECTED
- Print Acceleration: 2000 mm/s (2/3 of the default value)
- Travel Acceleration: 3000 mm/s (60% of the default value)
- Enable Jerk Control: SELECTED
- Print Jerk: 20 mm/s (the default value)
- Travel Jerk: 20 mm/s (set to same as Print Jerk)
Experimental
- Enable Costing: SELECTED (default values used for Coasting)
NOTE: The legacy Cura 15.04.06 settings for PLA can be found in this .ini file:
https://github.com/W1N9Zr0/Ultimaker_Cura_Profile/blob/master/hacklab_typa_profile.ini
CURA 3 settings for PETG by iPrint3D & MG Chemicals
PLEASE NOTE: These settings are Updated for Cura 3.3.1 -- using the "Scalable Extra Prime" Plugin. The below settings were used/tested only with Solid Color (not transparent) PETG filaments. As the Settings for any Transparent filament can be noticeably different for a solid color of the same product, the below might not provide acceptable results for Transparent PETG filaments.
Quality
- Draft Quality ==> Layer Height: 0.2mm (Don't use less than this with PETG.)
==> HINT: For faster prints, a Layer Height 0.25mm also works extremely well.
Shell
- Wall Thickness: 1.2 mm (3 perimeters seem to work a bit better than 2)
- Top/Bottom Thickness: 1.2 mm (Same as above. Requires more than for PLA.)
- Top/Bottom Pattern: Zig Zag
- Optimize Wall Printing Order: SELECTED
- Alternate Extra Wall: SELECTED
- Fill Gaps Between Walls: Everywhere
- Filter Out Tiny Gaps: SELECTED
- Z Seam Alignment: Shortest
- Seam Corner Preference: Hide or Expose
Infill
- Infill Density: 100% or less, as appropriate
==> 100% often used, as PETG is more flexible than PLA
==> 25% often used when just want infill to print on top of - Infill Pattern: Zig Zag
- Infill Overlap Percentage: 50
==> The Infill Overlap is extremely high! This value is used to ensure the infill will not separate from the Shell layers. - Skin Overlap Percentage: 10
- Minimum Infill Area: 2 mm²
Material
- Printing Temperature: 240 °C
- Build Plate Temperature: 0 °C
- Diameter: 1.75 mm
==> if possible, use the actual measured filament dia. - Flow: 100 %
- Retraction Distance: 0.5 mm
==> Note: I’m using the combination of “Coasting” together with a small retraction. - Retraction Speed: 25 mm/s
- Retraction Retract Speed: 20 mm/s
- Retraction Prime Speed: 25 mm/s
- Retraction Extra Prime Amount: -0.0025 mm³
The Scalable Extra Prime plugin is now used together with this. - Retraction Minimum Travel: 1.2 mm (width of 3 wall perimeters)
- Enable Scalable Extra Prime: SELECTED
- Extra Prime Min Travel: 20 mm
- Extra Prime Max Travel: 70 mm
- Min Extra Prime: 0 mm
- Max Extra Prime: 0.005 mm
- Enable For All Travels: UNSELECTED
Speed
- Print Speed: 25 mm/s
- Infill Speed: 25 mm/s
==> Can try 37.5 mm/s for prints with larger areas of infill. - Wall Speed 20 mm/s
- Outer Wall Speed: 20 mm/s
- Inner Wall Speed: 25 mm/s
- Support Speed: 25 mm/s
- Infill Speed: 25 mm/s
- Travel Speed 240 mm/s
- Initial Layer Speed: 20 mm/s
- Enable Acceleration Control: SELECTED
- Print Acceleration: 2000 mm/s (2/3 of the default value)
- Travel Acceleration: 3000 mm/s (60% of the default value)
- Enable Jerk Control: UNSELECTED
==> Limiting sudden movement changes permits PETG to build up on outside of head.
Travel
- Combing Mode: All
==> This sometimes provides *much* faster print times.
==> Set to “No Skin” or “Off” only if surface movement lines are a problem. - Z Hop When Retracted: SELECTED
- Z Hop Height: 0.5 mm
Support
- Support Pattern: Lines
- Support Density: 20%
Cooling
- Enable Print Cooling: UNSELECTED
- Minimum Layer Time: 10 s
Build Plate Adhesion
- Build Plate Adhesion Type: Brim
- Brim Width: 10 mm
Special Modes
- Print Sequence: One at a Time
Experimental
- Enable Costing: SELECTED
- Costing Volume: 0.1 mm3 (aprox. 150% the Cura 3 default value)
==> The new (experimental) Costing Feature of Cura 3 is what enables the above settings to provide a very noticeable improvement in the PETG print quality. Where using Costing together with a small retraction works far far better than using just retractions.
- Costing Volume: 0.1 mm3 (aprox. 150% the Cura 3 default value)
- Alternate Skin Rotation: SELECTED
NOTES:
- The above settings are a "best compromise", to get good results, without limiting the print speed any more than necessary.
- For best results printing PETG, do not use the Filament Fan. (Print with the Hotend Heatsink Fan only.) When the Filament Fan is used, expect layer separation problems. When printed without using a Filament Fan, PETG has exceptional layer bonding.
- As a filament type, PETG is terrible at things like bridging. This includes you might need just a bit more top surface over infill to get a smooth outer layer.
- As the head moves through spiderweb thin strands between printed parts, PETG filament build-up on the outside of the printhead. Despite this, any print that could be described as a "highly shaped bock of plastic" will work well. But for prints where the head constantly moves over open air (no plastic under the head), the melted PETG dropping off the outside of the printhead might cause that print to fail.
Cura 3 Settings for this Printer
In Cura 3.3.1, to use the below settings, create a Custom FDM printer, then edit the Machine Settings for that printer to contain the following:
... PRINTER TAB
Printer Settings
- X (Width): 254 mm
- Y (Depth): 230 mm
- Z (Height): 230 mm
- Build plate shape: Rectangular
- Origin at center: UNSELECTED
- Heated bed: UNSELECTED
- Gcode Flavor: Marlin
Printhead Settings
- X min: 30 mm
- Y min: 30 mm
- X max: 55 mm
- Y max: 60 mm
- Gantry height: 110.0 mm
- Number of Extruders: 1
Start Gcode
;Sliced at: {day} {date} {time}
G21 ;metric values
G90 ;absolute positioning
M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode
M107 ;start with the fan off
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops
G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops
G1 Z15.0 F{travel_speed} ;move the platform down 15mm
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
G1 F{travel_speed}
M117 Printing...
End Gcode
;End GCode
M104 S0 ;extruder heater off
M140 S0 ;heated bed heater off (if you have it)
G91 ;relative positioning
G1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure
G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F{travel_speed} ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way
M84 ;steppers off
G90 ;absolute positioning
... EXTRUDER 1 TAB
- Material Diameter: 1.75 mm
- Nozzle size: 0.4 mm
Machine Log
| Date | Notes | Entry By |
|---|---|---|
| September 4, 2018 |
|
Allen |
| August 29, 2018 |
|
Allen |
| June 2018 (rest of) |
|
Allen |
| June 19, 2018 |
|
Allen |
| June 13, 2018 |
|
Allen |
| March 15, 2018 | After printing over 20 hours of work, there are NO x-axis or y-axis shifts to all those prints, so this printer finally seems fixed. | Allen |
| February 28, 2018 |
|
Allen |
| February 27, 2018 |
|
Allen |
| February 14, 2018 |
|
Allen |
| February 13, 2018 |
|
Allen |
| February 08, 2018 |
// AluHotend E3Dv6 #define DEFAULT_Kp 8.66 #define DEFAULT_Ki 1.02 #define DEFAULT_Kd 48.80
|
Allen |
| December 14, 2017 |
|
Allen |
| December 13, 2017 |
|
Allen |
| December 07, 2017 |
|
Allen |
| November 08, 2017 |
|
Allen |
| November 07, 2017 |
|
Allen |
| November 02, 2017 |
|
Allen |
| October 12, 2017 |
|
Allen |
| August 30, 2017 |
|
Allen |
| August 29, 2017 |
|
Allen |
| August 21, 2017 |
|
Allen |
| August 10, 2017 |
|
Allen |
| July 13, 2017 | Have a 2nd AluHotend/E3Dv6 hot end for this printer. So multiple easy to change print heads (1 per filament type?) are now possible. | Allen |
| July 4, 2017 |
|
Allen |
| June 22, 2017 | While trying to fit Hotend Heatsink Cooling Fan, the Nichrome wire broke off right where it goes into the circular ceramic. Now must rebuild using a E3D v6 Head. (As purchased, on the AluHotend heatbreak.) Per instructions on the Internet, that will require changed/custom firmware. | Allen |
| June 17, 2017 |
|
Allen |
| June 13-14, 2017 |
|
Allen |
| May 24, 2017 | 1st attempt to replace Grovemount & Heatbreak ended with a broken part. The needed parts are on order. (Aprox. 30 days from China.) Everything was installed and working briefly before the cracked heatbreak broke. Trying to use the installed Heatsink & Thermal Compound on the Metal Extruder block, instead of a fan on the small metal Grovemount fins. (This rebuild will be simpler if a 2nd fan is not needed.) | Allen |
| April 28, 2017 | Un-Jammed the filament in the print-head. (Jammed in the black quickmount part?) Can push the filament through by hand. (Almost breaking filament using that much force.) But will *not* extrude properly. So something is not moving freely in the quickmount head assembly. | Allen |
| March 28, 2017 | Tried to print, but machine is under-extruding like crazy. The first layer did not lay down, the filament came out like small blobs instead of a constant stream, even at 115% flowrate. I will order a new brass head and teflon tube from china. | ran0 |
| February 18, 2017 | as per @Myles: OctoPi3 is working if you need to use a 3D printer. | MikeP |
| January 2017 | Attempted cleaning nozzle, printer still under-extruding | ran0 |
| January 28 2016 | The X (and to a lesser degree the Y) axis are skipping and it ends up offset. Tightened the belts. All good. | alaina |
| January 1 2016 | Print head not extruding. Mechanics and octopi commands seem to be working fine, but filament does not extrude from print head. Also, the Z axis is off a little, and home is slightly too close to the print head. Easily adjusted by hand. | emmy (saskeah) |
| January 2 2016 | On Igor's advice, I tried pushing through some filament (with the hot end at 185C), and it came through just fine. The pinch wheel needs to be cleaned before using, using the compressed air and little metal brushes by the soldering station. On my to do list (hopefully before end of Tuesday) is to clean out the print head using Igor's "cold push" method, clean the pinch wheel, adjust the Z axis, and re-tape the bed, then print a calibration object to make sure all is good. Also, if anyone else does all of this and wants to print - just a note that the 1.75 inch filament is *super* brittle, so be careful! | emmy (saskeah) |
| January 2 2016 | Cold push clean out of extruder head done, extruder doesn't seem to be blocked. Next step is to clean out the pinch wheel, which is on my to-do before Tuesday, unless someone else feels like taking that on. | emmy (saskeah) |
| January 3 2016 | Pinch wheel cleaned with compressed air. Bed re-taped and cleaned with isopropyl alcohol. Cold push clean of extruder head repeated for good measure (and during a sticky moment unicycledave took the head apart and removed some extra gunk). Z axis adjusted. Attempted a calibration object, z axis held bed too far from the print head. Attempted again with adjustment, print head was too close and scraped the tape. Good news: printer totally functional. Bad news: Z axis still needs tweaking, and part of the bed needs to be re-taped again. | emmy (saskeah) |
| January 4 2016 | Bed re-taped, z axis double-checked. Type A gets my stamp of approval - good to go! | emmy (saskeah) |
| January 10 2016 | Did a test print that came out perfectly calibrated, but with some relatively minor gaps in extrusion. | emmy (saskeah) |
| January 17 2016 | Tried another test print that came out with more pronounced gaps in extrusion. Tried a calibration cube at 220 C, and it came out well. Downloaded the new version of Cura and used the default presets to print another test cube. The presets are fairly different from the previous version, and the test print came out perfectly. | emmy (saskeah) |
Parts and Supplies Wish List
- www.aliexpress.com/item/A-Funssor-Silicone-Socks-for-v6-hotend-SILICONE-HEATER-BLOCK-COVER-Heater-Block-Silicone-Insulation-Blue/32823079702.html
- 3pcs (for the 3 Printheads that were purchased), shipped by ePacket (becomes XpressPost in Canada.)
- This is the correct Silicone Sock for the "made in China" E3D clone heat-block that we are using.