Ultimaker 2

Ultimaker #2, also known as "Fawkes"

This page documents Ultimaker #2 (Fawkes) [A phoenix from the ashes]

Printer lives on the third shelf of the 3D printer tower, next to the Type A.

Status

• Operational ... it can be Problematic
• Last known good settings: 220°, 110% flow, print 60mm/s, travel 120mm/s, 0.4 mm nozzle size, 2.85mm filament size.
• OLD crap Transparent PLA. (Do not use with anything that is constantly retracting.)
• There is a custom filament feeder on the back of the machine. Use the little red chock in the position shown here to ensure the pinch roller can grab the filament properly.
• The Carbon Fiber Plate flatness is only "good enough". (It seems to have a slightly high center.)
  • Using a Brim to hold parts to the Print Bed is strongly recommended.
  • Bed was leveled, but wood support structure is loose! (See Known Issues and Fixes section about that.)
  • If head too close & extruder starts clicking, that can cause filament feed problems.
• Set X-axis to about 102% of Y-axis Scale to get square/round prints. (Translucent Red 20mm X/Y/Z cube by printer.)
• PLA ONLY! (to prevent nozzle contamination)
• Cura 15 Settings here
• http://octopi2.hacklab.to/

Known Issues and Fixes

• IMPORTANT: OctoPrint will disconnect from Ultimaker 2 if Ultimaker 1 is powered on. If you want to print on both (or will want to eventually), power both on before starting to print on Ultimaker 2
• DO NOT USE Isopropyl Alcohol on the IPG Blue Tape. (On any other make of Blue Tape using that is fine.)
• The wood support structure that holds the printbed is loose! At least on 1 side, a partial disassembly may be needed, to reverse which side the bolt heads are on, and which side the nuts are on.
  • FOR NOW: Grab both sides of the front wood structure (just outside the bed level screws), then gently move one side up, while the other moves down, to get the bed level. (Bed seems to stay level for printing once ajusted.)
• The flatness of the used side of the 3mm Carbon Fiber Plate is out by LESS than 0.1mm ... so large prints should again be possible on this printer.
• If needed, manually adjust the Z-axis for the first layer until the filament is being laid down flat (not rounded).
  • Turn the threaded rod clockwise to bring the head closer to the print bed, and counter-clockwise to move the head further away.
• This printer is in fairly rough shape mechanically. This causes the most problems with prints that have thin filled walls.
  • Printing slower and at a higher flow rate can help with getting acceptable print quality.
    • 220°, 110% flow, print @ 30mm/s (1/2 speed), travel @ 60mm/s (also 1/2 speed), 0.4 mm nozzle size, 2.85mm filament size are the safe settings for this printer.

Features

• Ultimaker Original with extruder drive upgrade
• Built from an incomplete kit and a bunch of parts are 3D printed
• 210 x 210 x 205 mm print volume (Carbon Fiber Plate for printing on is only 200mm wide.)
• 2.85mm filament
• Absolute max temperature: 250 C
• It is managed and accessible from the web GUI: http://octopi2.hacklab.to/

Machine Log

Date	Notes	Entry By
May 29, 2018	Head was jammed, took it apart and replaced Hot End Isolator Coupler, Hot End Isolator Tube and PEEK Insulator with ebay parts that were in 3D printer parts bin. Seems OK now, maybe under-extruding a bit.	Igor
February 28, 2018	Using a feeler gauge & Machine Shop straight edge, determine that the center of the plate is high by more than 0.2mm. HOWEVER, the other side has a different high/low spots pattern, that is out by less than 0.1mm. (More than 0.06mm, and less than 0.1mm) So able to get the Carbon Fiber Plate working to print on, by ONLY using the one good side. See the Known Issues and Fixes section, about the loose wood under-structure that holds the build plate.	Allen
February 20, 2018	300mm X 200mm X 3mm Carbon Fiber Plate purchase for printing on is HIGH in the Center. After installing (without cutting) takes HOURS to get the bed leveled. (Front left spring can't go up more. Back right level screw seems jammed.) Once leveled, CAN finally print on entire print bed, but high center has print in that area toooo close, in a way that will always rip blue tape when taking the print off.	Allen
February 8, 2018	Reconnect the board cooling fan on the underside of this printer. (Wire pulled, so not plugged in?) Use a straightened out coat-hanger to get badly broken out of the bowden tube.	Allen
October 19, 2017	Replaced broken (physically split) Power Jack.	atrain
October 12, 2017	On Thursday October 5th, Ultimaker 2 "just died" mid-print. (No front red power LED.) Tried the Power adapter for Ultimaker 1 -- which did nothing to help get Ultimaker 2 running again.	Allen
July 13, 2017	Use a 3D printed guide ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:81415 ) to put the X-axis rods back into the correct alignment. (When the X-axis home switch was failing, one side had been moved closer to that switch.)	Allen
June 23, 2017	Use Thermal Adhesive to put a re-purposed VGA Heatsink onto the end of the Extruder Stepper motor. (NO adhesive in the center, near the shaft end.) Head NOT moving smothly again! Use Silicone Fluid to lube/clean all X/Y shafts. Double-check that no end-cap screw is toooo thigh while doing this.	Allen
Jun 8-9, 2017	Extruder DIED! (Plate that the Tension Arm screws into is cracked/broken.) Totally rebuild this using new printed parts. Everything except the Bearing Cap and the Large Gear was reprinted (on Ultimaker 1) Printed with PLA using: 4 Perimeter lines (1.6mm); Top/Bottom 1.6mm; 100% Fill. Bowden Clip Holder printed at 105% (Thin washers as shims under screws.) Everything else was printed at 100% (Which means everything is a tight fit.) The old-style (ABS) Filament Compression Arm was labeled & put in the Printer Parts basket. The tension block is now almost too big. (Grove side up & only goes 1/2 block length in.) White Motor Gear moved down shaft towards Stepper Motor! (No longer meshed/engaged w/ large Extruder Gear.) Put Gorilla Glue (Super-Glue Gel?) on motor shaft under & behind White Gear. Move Stepper Motor over as put Large Gear back on. (Gears were toooo tight.)	Allen
Jun 7, 2017	Lubricate the Z screw using Superlube Synthetic Grease.	Allen
June 6, 2017	Replaced the brass nozzle with a brand new one. Still underextruding though... whole head needs disassembly and new parts I think. Got a decent print at 40 mm/s, 220 deg, 110% flow, and nozzle size at 0.3mm	rana
June 1, 2017	Suspected the Translucent Yellow filament was aggravating the problems w/ this printer ... so changed the filament to a Pastel Pink roll, which is like the other rolls that have worked well. Now printer works fine @ 220°C & 110% Flow.	Allen
May 24, 2017	Replace the X-axis zero-stop switch. (Used an M3 tap to thread holes in replacement switch Rana provided.) Re-positioned X-axis stepper motor, to get more tension on that belt.	Allen
April 28, 2017	Tightened all the frame screws. Unwittingly tightened the tensioner screw on the rails (the middle screw of those plastic pieces on the frame) and the head would not move. Loosened them and head moves well now. The plastic connector for the printhead fan was coming in between the head and the orange rail holder, preventing homing. Secured that wire using a zip tie.	Rana
April 26, 2017	Filament was not extruding, took out the Bowden tube in the printhead and put it back in, it went several mm further in. Extruding fine now.	Rana
April 19-20, 2017	Replacement of the print nozzle fan -- which had a broken blade. Clean Print Nozzle MacGyver Fix Extruder to keep pressure wheel against filament -- by using the head of a large (white) Tie Wrap to hold the top of the pivoting (black) section in position. Do what can to level print bed. Print bed itself is not perfectly flat -- so large prints can have some spots tooo close (clicking extruder), and other spots too far (not sticking.) Still getting Filament Jams. (Samples of plastic from head kept.) Others were hearing/seeing belt skip problems ... so some/all belts may need replacing.	Allen
April 5, 2017	Lubricate Y-Axis rods using NCR Silicone Fluid. Hardened/old lubricant on the Y-axis rods also removed by doing this. Using 30AWG wire to try cleaning print head. (Some dirt came out. Filament still curls towards head.)	Allen
March 9, 2017	The Print Head Fan Duct was touching the build plate before the front/right corner was down enough to be level. Used a fine file to trim the underside of this 3D printed part, so this now stays just slightly above the build plate at all times.	Allen
March 1, 2017	X axis just stopped working mid-print again. Re-seated x axis stepper board again, and this time used Kapton Tape to secure all the the stepper board DIPs in place.	Allen
February 28, 2017	Lubricate X-Axis rods using NCR Silicone Fluid. X-Axis now moves back & forth smoothly. (Left side of belt no longer bends sideways @ the stepper motor.) Hardened/old lubricant on the X-axis rods also removed by doing this.	Allen
February 21, 2017	Igor helped to locate & fix bad driver board (DIP socket) connections for the X axis stepper motor. Removed broken PLA from feeding tube (yet again). The working PLA reel from Ultimaker 1 was moved to this unit.	Allen
Mid-2016	Re-printed extruder drive tensioner in ABS on Ultimaker 1, replaced Bowden tube coupler springs. Snipped 1cm off the tube ends to give couplers fresh surface to hold on to.	Igor
September 26, 2015	Removed overly-brittle, broken PLA from the feeding tube. Machine back in working order with new PLA. PLA can become stale and brittle due to moisture absorption.	Justin
July 28, 2013	Found new Arduino mega and installed marlin firmware via CURA. Checked all axis movements, checked thermocouple via external temperature sensors and finalized hot-end. Installed build platform. Removed raspberry pi.	Norm
July 27, 2013	Cemented thermocouple into tube, fit tube into hot end. Attempted firmware uploads using Cura (failed) and Xloader (succeeded)	Norm
June 23, 2013	Machined remaining parts and assembled feeder, mounted and tested (dry run without power, tensioner only). Attached flying lead ends of thermocouple onto thermocouple amp. Wired in thermocouple amp, wired in feeder wiring.	Norm
June 22, 2013	Printed out and assembled most of the feeder, lubricated gantry.	Norm
June 18, 2013	Printed out parts for feeder	Norm
June 10, 2013	Stripped apart old filament feeder and began building new feeder which uses the hobbed pulley. Parts on order, machined other parts.	Norm
June 8, 2013	Rebuilt hot-end, rebuilt gantry components, mounted entire gantry, roughly aligned belts, verified general mechanical functions! Finished mounts for build platform (cutting build platform and mounting to be completed).	Norm
May 29, 2013	Boden tube, V2 hot end components, and belts arrived.	Norm
May 16, 2013	Ordered Boden tube and V2 hot end components (the feeder upgrade can be printed for cheap). Belts ordered for Ultimaker 1 (when they are needed for replacement). (~$138)	Norm
May 15, 2013	Printed Z home switch adjustment block and holder. Designed and printed parts for new build platform system. Disassembled Z axis, examined and attempted to straighten leadscrew (limited success), inserted main portion of the build platform innards.	Norm
April 29, 2013	Printed fourth X/Y bushing block and Raspberry Pi bracket	Norm
April 27, 2013	Assembled 3/4 X/Y bushing blocks, 4th print failed mid-print.	Norm
April 24, 2013	Unmounted dual extruder. Stripped out X/Y gantry parts for rebuild (X/Y blocks broken). Observed Z acme rod bent. Remounted Arduino Mega and driver board.	Norm
April 22, 2013	Reorganized shelf to accommodate the Ultimaker, organized materials and supplies.	Norm