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→Recommended Filament Settings
(→Recommended Filament Settings: better wording for PETG buildup.) |
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* As the head moves through spiderweb thin strands between printed parts, PETG filament build-up on the '''outside''' of the printhead. Despite this, any print that could be described as a "highly shaped bock of plastic" will probably work. But for prints where the head constantly moves over open air (no plastic under the head), the melted PETG dropping off the outside of the printhead will probably cause that print to fail. | * As the head moves through spiderweb thin strands between printed parts, PETG filament build-up on the '''outside''' of the printhead. Despite this, any print that could be described as a "highly shaped bock of plastic" will probably work. But for prints where the head constantly moves over open air (no plastic under the head), the melted PETG dropping off the outside of the printhead will probably cause that print to fail. | ||
* To print with PETG, start with a '''clean''' nozzle; and the 1st layer (inside the Brim) needs to be perfect. | * To print with PETG, start with a '''clean''' nozzle; and the 1st layer (inside the Brim) needs to be perfect. | ||
* There are suggestions on the Internet | * There are suggestions on the Internet that MG Chemicals PETG is brittle compared to other PETG filaments. So anything that would be "fragile" (too easy to break) when printed with PLA, could also be "fragile" when printed with this PETG. | ||