Ultimaker 1: Difference between revisions

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correct physical location info.
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[[File:Ultimaker 1.jpg|thumb|300px|Ultimaker #1, also known as "Guy"]]
[[File:Ultimaker 1.jpg|thumb|300px|Ultimaker #1, also known as "Guy"]]
This page documents Ultimaker #1 (Guy).
This page documents Ultimaker #1 (Guy).
The printer lives on the bottom shelf of the 3D printer tower.
 
Printer lives on the second shelf of the 3D printer tower, below the [[FlashForge Creator Pro]].


==Status==
==Status==
<onlyinclude>
<onlyinclude>
* Operational
* DOWN! ... has a '''serious''' head jam, which will need cold pulls to clear/fix.
* WHITE: 2.85mm PLA (use 210&deg;-220&deg;)
* '''Last known good settings:''' 220°, 110% flow, print 60mm/s, travel 120mm/s, retraction 4.5mm @ 40mm/s, 0.4 mm nozzle size, 2.85mm filament size.
* BLACK: 2.85mm PLA/PHA Filament (use 220&deg;-230&deg;) -- this is a bit more flexible than plain PLA
* Silver PLA (from M G Chemicals)
* Works well using Blue painter’s tape '''without''' using the heated bed. (Same setup as Ultimaker 2)
* Works well using Blue painter’s tape '''without''' using the heated bed. (Same setup as Ultimaker 2)
* '''Heated bed currently not working''' (mid-way through fixing that).
* [[3D_Printers#Cura_15|Cura 15 Settings here]]
* [[3D_Printers#Cura_15|Cura 15 Settings here]]
* '''http://octopi.hacklab.to/'''</onlyinclude>
* '''http://octopi.in.hacklab.to/'''</onlyinclude>


==Known Issues and Fixes==
==Known Issues and Fixes==
* '''IMPORTANT:''' OctoPrint will '''disconnect from Ultimaker 2''' if Ultimaker 1 is powered on. If you want to print on both (or will want to eventually), power both on before starting your print on Ultimaker 2
* '''IMPORTANT:''' OctoPrint will '''disconnect from Ultimaker 2''' if Ultimaker 1 is powered on. If you want to print on both (or will want to eventually), power both on before starting your print on Ultimaker 2
* To '''easily''' change the filament, rotate this printer 90&deg; -- so that the filament spool points towards the shop door end of the shelving.
* Recommended CURA '''Retraction Settings:''' 4.5mm at 40mm/s
* For better results, wipe the Blue Tape Sheet with Isopropyl Alcohol a few minutes before starting to print.
* '''If a large solid area is under-extruding''' then try printing PLA at 220&deg; and 110% Flow.


== Features ==
== Features ==
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!Notes
!Notes
!Entry By
!Entry By
|-
|September 6, 2018
|
* "Pipe on back" filament holder replaced by this filament holder on the shelf behind:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3002741 ... used file SpoolRollerL.stl to make this.
* Bed Level was adjusted.
| Allen
|-
|June 22, 2018
|
* The New (Ultimaker original) Nozzle from Ultimaker 2 was swapped out, to put it on this machine.
* Bed Level was checked, and Zero Stop was adjusted.
| Rana & Hiker ???
|-
|Oct 10, 2017
|
* Replace Blue Tape Sheet
* Ajust Zero Stop. (Head '''was''' a bit too high.)
* Print a test pattern to check Bed Level is really good.
|Allen
|-
|Sep 24, 2017
|
The head was jammed up real good, had to put in some elbow grease to clean it. So apparently a 5 mm long piece of filament had broken off and got stuck in the space where the bowden tube meets the teflon coupler (I think it was in the teflon coupler). So filament was blocked from entering the metal throat. Had to heat up the block, unscrew the nozzle, and poke a thin screwdriver up the throat. Kept poking and removing molten plastic, then finally pushed up on the blocking piece and pushed it through to the bowden tube, which I then disconnected and got that bugger piece out. I must say it was my white whale.
Prints as usual now, which is pretty good.
|rana
|-
|Sep 20, 2017
|
* Removed the Nylon piece between the Fan Duct & the metal block to raise the duct opening a bit more. (In the hope that this would work better)
* '''Carefully''' tweek the angle of the heatblock -- to get as much clearance for Fan Duct as I can.
* Clear yet another Head Jam ... then the Thermocouple  no longer works! (Head temp. always reads "off".)
** At the Plywood of the Head, the Bowden Clamp is toooo difficult to get to release. (New clamp needed?)
** I also seemed to have the Heater cable too tight to get the Bowden Tube totally out. (Problem from feeding more cable through head?)
** We seem to be having '''far too many''' head jams with this printer. Does the PEEK and/or PTFE Teflon parts the filament goes through need replacement?
** A separate 12V regulator & a PEEK Cooling fan ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:383950 ) should be installed for higher temp. printing.
** And if this head needs to be rebuilt, then this ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:344113 ) using ABS looks like the best Filament Fan solution. (NO blocking head view/access, NO turning Heatblock, etc..)
|Allen
|-
|Sep 13, 2017
|
* Replaced filament cooling fan duct w/ https://www.youmagine.com/designs/tapir-shroud-for-ultimaker ... printed using PETG
* Had to '''carefully''' rotate the heat block about 90&deg; to install that.
** Had to feed a bit more wires through wooden printhead to get slack to do that.
* Resorted to using tie-warps to get this on/installed.
** A piece of (nylon) tie-wrap was put between the Metal printer plate & this part, to prevent warping due to heat.
|Allen
|-
|Sep 8, 2017
|
* Replaced the filament cooling fan duct for a 2nd time. (Heatblock burned through it.)
* This '''large''' cooling fan shroud now is '''extremely close''' to the Printbed ... which produces excellent results, but makes it incredibly difficult to catch the loose filament when a print first starts. (Filament trapped next to the printhead causing prints to fail when first started.)
* '''This Filament Fan needs to be replaced with another one of a different design!'''
** Current "best prospect": https://www.youmagine.com/designs/tapir-shroud-for-ultimaker
* X-home switch failed & was ajusted.
** Screws into that micro-switch are '''loose''', so a tiewrap had to be used.
|Allen
|-
|Jul 3, 2017
|
* Replaced the filament cooling fan duct using the following printed parts: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:17768 and https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:156119
** The fan screws were too short for this, so for now the fan is held in place by only 1 screw, until a few more longer M3 screws can be found.
* At the '''very back of the print area''', the fan might still hit the rounded screw heads holding the print bed. Flat head screws have been obtained, so the 4 heatbed screws will be replaced next.
|Allen
|-
|Jun 7, 2017
|Stopped Extruding! ... Something like a C-clip has been lost on the Geared/Knerled shaft. .... For now use a copper wire to hold that shaft in place. '''The proper part needs to be obtained and installed.'''
|Allen
|-
|Jun 7, 2017
|Lubricate the Z screw using Superlube Synthetic Grease.
|Allen
|-
|Jun 7, 2017
|Heat bed still "cuts out" and drops to about 28&deg;C after less than an hour of printing.
|Allen
|-
|Jun 7, 2017
|Switched bed heater to the second relay on the breakout board, it verks!
|Igor
|-
|May 30, 2017
|
* Also switched the input wires over to the other relay on this board. "No Joy".
* While doing that, found & fixed a '''broken solder joint''' on an output pin of the originally used relay.
** That broken solder joint most likely '''was''' causing the intermittent we are trying to fix.
|Allen
|-
|-


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|}
|}
==Parts and Supplies Wish List==
* Hardened Nozzle for printing Carbon Fiber and '''any other''' Filled Filaments (including glow-in-dark).
** A usable Hardened Nozzle from Canada: https://shop3d.ca/products/0-50mm-jet-steel-nozzle-for-olsson-block-rss50  ... $29.38 w/ shipping & tax
*** '''See notes''' about using this nozzle with an UMO here: https://thegr5store.com/store/index.php/um2/rss50.html
** Another possible Hardened Nozzle from Canada: https://spool3d.ca/nozzle-a2-reprap-m6-thread-3mm-filament-ultimaker-2-e3d-olsson-block/  ... $33.38 w/ shipping & tax (No Tracking!)


[[Category:3D Printers]]
[[Category:3D Printers]]
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