Ultimaker 2: Difference between revisions

Jump to navigation Jump to search

Ultimaker 2 (view source)

Revision as of 06:51, 18 November 2018

427 bytes added ,  18 November 2018
→‎Machine Log: Update for work done by Atrain
(→‎Machine Log: Update for work done by Atrain)
(24 intermediate revisions by 4 users not shown)
Line 2: Line 2:
This page documents Ultimaker #2 (Fawkes) [A phoenix from the ashes]
This page documents Ultimaker #2 (Fawkes) [A phoenix from the ashes]


Printer lives on the third shelf of the 3D printer tower, next to the [[Type A]].
The printer lives on the bottom shelf of the 3D printer tower.


==Status==
==Status==
<onlyinclude>
<onlyinclude>
Pastel Yellow PLA from filaments.ca
* '''Last known good settings:''' 220°, 110% flow, print 60mm/s, travel 120mm/s, 0.4 mm nozzle size, 2.85mm filament size.
*'''Last known good settings''': (05-Dec-2017, Pastel Yellow PLA)  '''220&deg;''', 138% flow, print @ '''50mm/s''' (1/2 speed), travel @ '''150mm/s''', 0.4 mm nozzle size, 2.85mm filament size.
* Black PLA/PHA (This needs different retraction settings from PLA.)
* Operational ... it can be '''Problematic'''
* There is a custom filament feeder on the back of the machine. Use the little red chock in the position shown here to ensure the pinch roller can grab the filament properly.
** Changing filaments has become a pain in the neck, see Known Issues section for details. Full printhead overhaul is probably due, but meh could get a couple more print-hours out of it lol
* The Carbon Fiber Plate flatness is "good enough" only on the side in use.
** Using a Brim to hold parts to the Print Bed is strongly recommended.
** Using a Brim to hold parts to the Print Bed is strongly recommended.
** Bed was leveled but Print Bed is NOT perfectly flat! (Back/Right corner worst.)
** Bed was leveled, but wood support structure is loose! (See Known Issues and Fixes section about that.)
** The Z axis Zero Stop is inconsistent/unreliable. It is set a bit low & user manually turns the Z-axis screw (clockwise) to bring head towards the bed just until 1st layer becomes flat.
** If head too close & extruder starts clicking, that can cause filament feed problems.
** If head too close & extruder starts clicking, that can cause filament feed problems.
* Set X-axis to about 102% of Y-axis Scale to get square/round prints. (Pink 20mm X/Y/Z cube beside printer.)
* Set X-axis to about 102% of Y-axis Scale to get square/round prints. (Translucent Red 20mm X/Y/Z cube by printer.)
* Loaded with Black 2.85mm PLA/PHA filament (this works well @ the 30mm/60mm speeds.)
* '''PLA ONLY!''' (to prevent nozzle contamination)
* '''PLA ONLY!''' (to prevent nozzle contamination)
* [[3D_Printers#Cura_15|Cura 15 Settings here]]
* [[3D_Printers#Cura_15|Cura 15 Settings here]]
Line 22: Line 20:
==Known Issues and Fixes==
==Known Issues and Fixes==
* '''IMPORTANT:''' OctoPrint will '''disconnect from Ultimaker 2''' if Ultimaker 1 is powered on. If you want to print on both (or will want to eventually), power both on before starting to print on Ultimaker 2
* '''IMPORTANT:''' OctoPrint will '''disconnect from Ultimaker 2''' if Ultimaker 1 is powered on. If you want to print on both (or will want to eventually), power both on before starting to print on Ultimaker 2
*LOADING FILAMENT PROBLEM: the printhead is all misaligned, specifically the PEEK peice (light brown in colour) to the teflon coupler (white in colour) above it. Trying to push filament through there to the nozzle is difficult. Try to make a long and sharp point on the end of the filament, the longer the better, so it gives plenty of space to wiggle around in when shoving it in. You can see through the tube going into the top of the teflon piece, so use that to judge how far down the filament has gone. It probably helps to have the nozzle hot, but don't keep the nozzle hot with no filament inside because it is likely to burn plastic/dust inside the nozzle and cause friction issues.
* DO NOT USE Isopropyl Alcohol on the '''IPG Blue Tape'''. (On any other make of Blue Tape using that is fine.)
* Bed is really warped (higher up in the middle, lower down on the sides). Leveling the bed is unlikely to fix this.
* The wood support structure that holds the printbed is loose! At least on 1 side, a partial disassembly may be needed, to reverse which side the bolt heads are on, and which side the nuts are on.
** Manually adjust the Z-axis for the first layer until the filament is being laid down flat (not rounded).
** '''FOR NOW:''' Grab both sides of the front '''wood''' structure (just outside the bed level screws), then gently move one side up, while the other moves down, to get the bed level. (Bed seems to stay level for printing once ajusted.)
*** Turn the threaded rod clockwise to bring the head closer to the print bed, and counter-clockwise to move the head further away.
* The flatness of the used side of the '''3mm Carbon Fiber Plate''' is out by LESS than 0.1mm ... so large prints should again be possible on this printer.
** for larger parts use 0.2mm layer height (or larger) -- so that if the 2nd layer successfully prints, you get the expected flat surface to continue printing on.
* '''If needed''', manually adjust the Z-axis for the first layer until the filament is being laid down flat (not rounded).
* This printer is in fairly rough shape mechanically. This causes the most problems with prints that have thin filled walls.
** Turn the threaded rod clockwise to bring the head closer to the print bed, and counter-clockwise to move the head further away.
* '''This printer is in fairly rough shape mechanically'''. This causes the most problems with prints that have thin filled walls.
** Printing slower and at a higher flow rate can help with getting acceptable print quality.
** Printing slower and at a higher flow rate can help with getting acceptable print quality.
*** 220°, 110% flow, print @ 30mm/s (1/2 speed), travel @ 60mm/s (also 1/2 speed), 0.4 mm nozzle size, 2.85mm filament size are the '''safe''' settings for this.
*** 220°, 110% flow, print @ 30mm/s (1/2 speed), travel @ 60mm/s (also 1/2 speed), 0.4 mm nozzle size, 2.85mm filament size are the '''safe''' settings for this printer.
*** Excellent results have been reported using 220° & 135% flow. '''However''', anything above 110% flow makes head jams very likely. (Some filament reels will work @ higher flow, while others constantly jam.) Thus reducing both print speeds is a better answer than increasing the % flow above 110%.


== Features ==
== Features ==
Line 36: Line 34:
* Ultimaker Original with extruder drive upgrade
* Ultimaker Original with extruder drive upgrade
* Built from an incomplete kit and a bunch of parts are 3D printed
* Built from an incomplete kit and a bunch of parts are 3D printed
* 210 x 210 x 205 mm print volume
* 210 x 210 x 205 mm print volume (Carbon Fiber Plate for printing on is only 200mm wide.)
* 2.85mm filament
* 2.85mm filament
* Absolute max temperature: 250 C
* Absolute max temperature: 250 C
Line 48: Line 46:
!Entry By
!Entry By
|-
|-
|November 13, 2018
|Front rod that was bent replaced. (X-axis home switch needed adjustment after doing this.)
|Atrain
|-
|May 29, 2018
|Head was jammed, took it apart and replaced Hot End Isolator Coupler, Hot End Isolator Tube and PEEK Insulator with ebay parts that were in 3D printer parts bin. Seems OK now, maybe under-extruding a bit.
|Igor
|-
|February 28, 2018
|
* Using a feeler gauge & Machine Shop straight edge, determine that the center of the plate '''is high by more than 0.2mm'''.
* HOWEVER, the other side has a different high/low spots pattern, that is out by '''less than 0.1mm'''. (More than 0.06mm, and less than 0.1mm)
* So able to get the Carbon Fiber Plate working to print on, by ONLY using the '''one good side'''.
** '''See the Known Issues and Fixes section, about the loose wood under-structure that holds the build plate.'''
|Allen
|-
|February 20, 2018
|
* 300mm X 200mm X 3mm Carbon Fiber Plate purchase for printing on is HIGH in the Center.
* After installing (without cutting) takes HOURS to get the bed leveled. (Front left spring can't go up more. Back right level screw seems jammed.)
* Once leveled, CAN finally print on entire print bed, but high center has print in that area toooo close, in a way that will always rip blue tape when taking the print off.
|Allen
|-
|February 8, 2018
|
* Reconnect the board cooling fan on the underside of this printer. (Wire pulled, so not plugged in?)
* Use a straightened out coat-hanger to get badly broken out of the bowden tube.
|Allen
|-




Line 254: Line 287:


== Parts and Supplies Wish List ==
== Parts and Supplies Wish List ==
* www.aliexpress.com/item/A-Funssor-4pcs-Ultimaker-Original-UM2-Plus-Printhead-Corner-Thumbscrews-M3-60-70-m-Print-Head/32838283972.html
** Strongly suggest shipped by '''ePacket''' (becomes XpressPost in Canada.)
** Thumb Screw spec's: github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker-Original-Plus/tree/master/1680%20Print%20Head%20Thumb%20screw%2062mm


[[Category:3D Printers]]
[[Category:3D Printers]]
Allen
283

edits

Retrieved from "https://knowledge.hacklab.to/wiki/Special:MobileDiff/1426...1649"

Navigation menu