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Ultimaker 2: Difference between revisions
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==Known Issues and Fixes== | ==Known Issues and Fixes== | ||
* '''IMPORTANT:''' OctoPrint will '''disconnect from Ultimaker 2''' if Ultimaker 1 is powered on. If you want to print on both (or will want to eventually), power both on before starting to print on Ultimaker 2 | * '''IMPORTANT:''' OctoPrint will '''disconnect from Ultimaker 2''' if Ultimaker 1 is powered on. If you want to print on both (or will want to eventually), power both on before starting to print on Ultimaker 2 | ||
* | *'''Filament Loading Problem''': the printhead is all misaligned, specifically the PEEK peice (light brown in colour) to the teflon coupler (white in colour) above it. Trying to push filament through there to the nozzle is difficult. Try to make a long and sharp point on the end of the filament, the longer the better, so it gives plenty of space to wiggle around in when shoving it in. You can see through the tube going into the top of the teflon piece, so use that to judge how far down the filament has gone. It probably helps to have the nozzle hot, but don't keep the nozzle hot with no filament inside because it is likely to burn plastic/dust inside the nozzle and cause friction issues. | ||
* Bed is really warped (higher up in the middle, lower down on the sides). Leveling the bed is unlikely to fix this. | * '''Bed is really warped''' (higher up in the middle, lower down on the sides). Leveling the bed is unlikely to fix this. | ||
** Manually adjust the Z-axis for the first layer until the filament is being laid down flat (not rounded). | ** Manually adjust the Z-axis for the first layer until the filament is being laid down flat (not rounded). | ||
*** Turn the threaded rod clockwise to bring the head closer to the print bed, and counter-clockwise to move the head further away. | *** Turn the threaded rod clockwise to bring the head closer to the print bed, and counter-clockwise to move the head further away. | ||
** for larger parts use 0.2mm layer height (or larger) -- so that if the 2nd layer successfully prints, you get the expected flat surface to continue printing on. | ** for larger parts use 0.2mm layer height (or larger) -- so that if the 2nd layer successfully prints, you get the expected flat surface to continue printing on. | ||
* This printer is in fairly rough shape mechanically. This causes the most problems with prints that have thin filled walls. | * '''This printer is in fairly rough shape mechanically'''. This causes the most problems with prints that have thin filled walls. | ||
** Printing slower and at a higher flow rate can help with getting acceptable print quality. | ** Printing slower and at a higher flow rate can help with getting acceptable print quality. | ||
*** 220°, 110% flow, print @ 30mm/s (1/2 speed), travel @ 60mm/s (also 1/2 speed), 0.4 mm nozzle size, 2.85mm filament size are the '''safe''' settings for this. | *** 220°, 110% flow, print @ 30mm/s (1/2 speed), travel @ 60mm/s (also 1/2 speed), 0.4 mm nozzle size, 2.85mm filament size are the '''safe''' settings for this. | ||