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3D Printers/FlashForge Creator Pro: Difference between revisions
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Added maintenance journal entry
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== Glass Print Plate Usage == | == Glass Print Plate Usage == | ||
Glass plate is of GO-3D brand, | Glass plate is of GO-3D brand, hopefully real mccoy stuff that is flat... It is covered with a PEI sheet that is adhered to the plate with 3M 468MP High Temp Tape. A blue silicone heat transfer sheet keeps the glass in place with friction and fills gaps between the plate and the aluminum bed, it is a type of silicone used for heat sinks for electronics. | ||
* NEVER CLAMP glass plate to bed. It will cause warping of the glass plate. Yes glass warps and bends, look it up. The silicone will keep it in place no problem. | * NEVER CLAMP glass plate to bed. It will cause warping of the glass plate. Yes glass warps and bends, look it up. The silicone sheet will keep it in place no problem. | ||
*One corner of the print plate is marked 'Front Right' and is blacked in | *One corner of the print plate is marked 'Front Right' and is blacked in a little around the corner. When facing the printer, this corner goes to corner that is on the right-hand side and is closest to you (duh, but just to be sure...). | ||
*The temperature of the surface of the glass plate will be lower than the aluminum bed, may have to use higher bed temp than on other printers | *The temperature of the surface of the glass plate will be lower than the aluminum bed, may have to use higher bed temp than on other printers | ||
* PEI sheet is prep-free surface for ABS and PLA, hot or cold. If you have another material, check first to make sure it will work on PEI. If not, then put tape on top of the sheet and then glue/hairspray/whatever. | * PEI sheet is prep-free surface for ABS and PLA, hot or cold. If you have another material, check first to make sure it will work on PEI. If not, then put tape on top of the sheet and then glue/hairspray/whatever. | ||
* Clean PEI sheet with 85% Isopropyl Alcohol and a paper towel, a green spray bottle should be near the printer. Can also use soap and water. | * Clean PEI sheet with 85% Isopropyl Alcohol and a paper towel, a green spray bottle should be near the printer. Can also use soap and water. | ||
* The flat spatula used to remove objects from the print plate is also useful for removing glass plate from silicone sheet. | * The flat spatula used to remove objects from the print plate is also useful for removing glass plate from silicone sheet. | ||
== Usage == | == Usage == | ||
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==A few random printing tips== | ==A few random printing tips== | ||
Smaller prints will better adhere to the bed than larger prints. If the print hasn't failed in the first 10% of the print job, it will be unlikely to fail after that. | *Smaller prints will better adhere to the bed than larger prints. If the print hasn't failed in the first 10% of the print job, it will be unlikely to fail after that. | ||
Use Cubic Infill (Available only in Slic3r prusa edition), as it provides rigidity in all directions [http://www.prusaprinters.org/introducing-slic3r-prusa-edition/] and doesn't make printer resonate. | *Use Cubic Infill (Available only in Slic3r prusa edition), as it provides rigidity in all directions [http://www.prusaprinters.org/introducing-slic3r-prusa-edition/] and doesn't make printer resonate. | ||
Do not use honeycomb -- as at the speeds of the default settings, it will cause printer to resonate and skip. | *Do not use honeycomb -- as at the speeds of the default settings, it will cause printer to resonate and skip. | ||
Leaning or drifting prints? Tighten all the belts, especially the Y-axis stepper motor belt. That stepper is prone to becoming loose because the Y-stepper motor puts out more power than the X. A link to a video is in the maintenance section. | *Leaning or drifting prints? Tighten all the belts, especially the Y-axis stepper motor belt. That stepper is prone to becoming loose because the Y-stepper motor puts out more power than the X. A link to a video is in the maintenance section. | ||
*Always store the printer with the X carriage in a corner. (It homes itself to the back left corner anyway when a print is done). But this is to prevent the X and Y axis rods from sagging over time, especially the X axis. It's a known problem, I think, I swear I read it on the internet! | |||
==Octoprint at octopi4.hacklab.to== | ==Octoprint at octopi4.hacklab.to== | ||
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!Notes | !Notes | ||
!Entry By | !Entry By | ||
|- | |||
| June 12, 2019 | |||
| Y-axis appeared to be skipping steps, but we found that there was a set screw loose on the timing pulley on one of the sides, so the whole gantry was driven by the belt on one side only. We tightened the set screw and squared the axis. Also, we flipped the timing belt pulley (hub toward the motor) on the Y axis motor so that the belt doesn't touch the motor flange. It's harder to access but it's tightened well and hopefully you won't have to tighten it again. We also retightened all the other belts for good measure. It works well now. | |||
| Misha | |||
|- | |||
| May 2019 | |||
| The feeding tube for the filament is too wide (4 mm ID 6 mm OD) and too stiff as a result. The problem is, it pushes on the print head in one direction so when the axis is loose, it is printing skewed towers of pisa, in the direction in which the tube pushes. We fed the wire without the tube so that there is no extra pressure on the axis. Therefore the printing errors average to zero. | |||
We bought a smaller and less springy tube (also PTFE) but we are waiting for someone more knowledgeable to install it. | |||
| Misha | |||
|- | |||
| Jan 16, 2019 | |||
| Loosened the Y-axis short belt, lol. In my zeal I tightened it too much, I guess... (the prints were still drifting back a little, the vertical lines were wobbly...) The belt is good now I think, it should make a low sound when you strum the belt. Also changed the screws holding the Y-stepper, added washer and a rubber ring to keep it in place. | |||
| Rana | |||
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[[Category:3D Printers]] | |||