Ultimaker 1

Ultimaker #1, also known as "Guy"

This page documents Ultimaker #1 (Guy).

Printer lives on the third shelf of the 3D printer tower, next to the Type A.

Status

• Operational
• Last known good settings: 220°, 110% flow, print 60mm/s, travel 120mm/s, 0.4 mm nozzle size, 2.85mm filament size.
• Burnt Orange PLA (from Filaments.ca)
• Works well using Blue painter’s tape without using the heated bed. (Same setup as Ultimaker 2)
• Cura 15 Settings here
• http://octopi.hacklab.to/

Known Issues and Fixes

• IMPORTANT: OctoPrint will disconnect from Ultimaker 2 if Ultimaker 1 is powered on. If you want to print on both (or will want to eventually), power both on before starting your print on Ultimaker 2
• For better results, wipe the Blue Tape Sheet with Isopropyl Alcohol a few minutes before starting to print.
• If a large solid area is under-extruding then try printing PLA at 220° and 110% Flow.

Features

• Ultimaker Original with extruder drive upgrade
• 210 x 210 x 205 mm print volume
• 2.85mm filament
• Absolute max temperature: 250 C
• Heated bed for ABS (on second power supply)
• It is managed and accessible from the web GUI: http://octopi.hacklab.to/

Machine Log

Date	Notes	Entry By
September 6, 2018	"Pipe on back" filament holder replaced by this filament holder on the shelf behind: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3002741 ... used file SpoolRollerL.stl to make this. Bed Level was adjusted.	Allen
June 22, 2018	The New (Ultimaker original) Nozzle from Ultimaker 2 was swapped out, to put it on this machine. Bed Level was checked, and Zero Stop was adjusted.	Rana & Hiker ???
Oct 10, 2017	Replace Blue Tape Sheet Ajust Zero Stop. (Head was a bit too high.) Print a test pattern to check Bed Level is really good.	Allen
Sep 24, 2017	The head was jammed up real good, had to put in some elbow grease to clean it. So apparently a 5 mm long piece of filament had broken off and got stuck in the space where the bowden tube meets the teflon coupler (I think it was in the teflon coupler). So filament was blocked from entering the metal throat. Had to heat up the block, unscrew the nozzle, and poke a thin screwdriver up the throat. Kept poking and removing molten plastic, then finally pushed up on the blocking piece and pushed it through to the bowden tube, which I then disconnected and got that bugger piece out. I must say it was my white whale. Prints as usual now, which is pretty good.	rana
Sep 20, 2017	Removed the Nylon piece between the Fan Duct & the metal block to raise the duct opening a bit more. (In the hope that this would work better) Carefully tweek the angle of the heatblock -- to get as much clearance for Fan Duct as I can. Clear yet another Head Jam ... then the Thermocouple no longer works! (Head temp. always reads "off".) At the Plywood of the Head, the Bowden Clamp is toooo difficult to get to release. (New clamp needed?) I also seemed to have the Heater cable too tight to get the Bowden Tube totally out. (Problem from feeding more cable through head?) We seem to be having far too many head jams with this printer. Does the PEEK and/or PTFE Teflon parts the filament goes through need replacement? A separate 12V regulator & a PEEK Cooling fan ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:383950 ) should be installed for higher temp. printing. And if this head needs to be rebuilt, then this ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:344113 ) using ABS looks like the best Filament Fan solution. (NO blocking head view/access, NO turning Heatblock, etc..)	Allen
Sep 13, 2017	Replaced filament cooling fan duct w/ https://www.youmagine.com/designs/tapir-shroud-for-ultimaker ... printed using PETG Had to carefully rotate the heat block about 90° to install that. Had to feed a bit more wires through wooden printhead to get slack to do that. Resorted to using tie-warps to get this on/installed. A piece of (nylon) tie-wrap was put between the Metal printer plate & this part, to prevent warping due to heat.	Allen
Sep 8, 2017	Replaced the filament cooling fan duct for a 2nd time. (Heatblock burned through it.) This large cooling fan shroud now is extremely close to the Printbed ... which produces excellent results, but makes it incredibly difficult to catch the loose filament when a print first starts. (Filament trapped next to the printhead causing prints to fail when first started.) This Filament Fan needs to be replaced with another one of a different design! Current "best prospect": https://www.youmagine.com/designs/tapir-shroud-for-ultimaker X-home switch failed & was ajusted. Screws into that micro-switch are loose, so a tiewrap had to be used.	Allen
Jul 3, 2017	Replaced the filament cooling fan duct using the following printed parts: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:17768 and https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:156119 The fan screws were too short for this, so for now the fan is held in place by only 1 screw, until a few more longer M3 screws can be found. At the very back of the print area, the fan might still hit the rounded screw heads holding the print bed. Flat head screws have been obtained, so the 4 heatbed screws will be replaced next.	Allen
Jun 7, 2017	Stopped Extruding! ... Something like a C-clip has been lost on the Geared/Knerled shaft. .... For now use a copper wire to hold that shaft in place. The proper part needs to be obtained and installed.	Allen
Jun 7, 2017	Lubricate the Z screw using Superlube Synthetic Grease.	Allen
Jun 7, 2017	Heat bed still "cuts out" and drops to about 28°C after less than an hour of printing.	Allen
Jun 7, 2017	Switched bed heater to the second relay on the breakout board, it verks!	Igor
May 30, 2017	Also switched the input wires over to the other relay on this board. "No Joy". While doing that, found & fixed a broken solder joint on an output pin of the originally used relay. That broken solder joint most likely was causing the intermittent we are trying to fix.	Allen
Apr 20, 2017	Y-axis shift of a print -- only to discover y-axis Stepper motor is really loose. Tighten screws, while making a "best guess" of what the belt tension should be. Also tighten all of the other screws on this printer that I can see & can get to. (Many were loose.) Lubricate X & Y axis rods using NCR Silicone Fluid. (Was a bit stiff to move head by hand. Now moving freely.) Try moving only the relay outputs for the Head Bed to the 2nd relay on the same board. "No Joy." Will still need to find & move the control input to the 2nd relay as well. Try a "Painters Tape Sheet" on the heat bed. Working very well with PLA/PHA. Small tweek to leveling of the (very flat) Aluminum Heat Bed.	Allen
Mid-2016	Nozzle cleaned, Bowden coupler springs replaced. Prints well. Use "ABS juice" to stick ABS prints to bare bed. Prints PLA onto blue tape perfectly as well.	Igor
Jan 28, 2016	THE QUARTERBACK IS TOAST. This printer isn't working. The extruder is spinning but not pushing ABS through. I've done as much troubleshooting as I can without risking screwing stuff up. I've sent a query to the mailing list.	alaina
June 8, 2013	Added tool holder onto side of Ultimaker	Norm
May 14, 2013	Tensioned X/Y belts, switched to white PLA and tested new experimental settings. Readjusted Z bed height, printed stuff.	Norm
May 11, 2013	Rod endcaps removed, threadlock (blue) applied to the M3 screws and setscrews locked into place to prevent loosening. Lubricated Z axis and gantry system. Experimented with white PLA, requires special settings. Returned to orange PLA.	Norm
May 1, 2013	Printed and mounted new Z home switch retaining mechanism and calibrated. Z homing much more accurate. Observed further inconsistent extrusion, further investigation found online that the knurled bolt is only useful for the last 3 mm nearest the groove for the delrin clip. Adjusted bolt positioning to move good knurling into position, no further grinding or slipping observed, consistent solid extrusion demonstrated.	Norm
April 30, 2013	Installed new e-panel composite based build platform.	Geordie
April 29, 2013	Printed and installed new extruder feed gear to reduce backlash during retraction. Observed inconsistent extrusion. Small gaps appearing in extrusion, yet full infill occurring on layers otherwise (ie: not clogged). Investigation pointing towards slipping knurled bolt in feeder, or more likely, old wet PLA causing problems.	Norm
April 27, 2013	Print quality degraded significantly mid-print. Hot end disassembled, burnt PLA removed from brass tube, and dust/dirt removed from teflon-PEEK interface. Print quality returned to normal. Clogged again, cleaned more thoroughly this time. (Used 1/8" drill bit to handheld scrape out burnt PLA very carefully. PLA diameter changed.	Norm
April 24, 2013	Squeaking noise observed from Y axis axle. Endcap inset screw noticed to be loose, requires new endcap to be printed, and screw not to be overtightened.	Norm
April 12, 2013	Bed leveling assist tool printed and built.	Norm
April 8, 2013	Belts retensioned, new bearing endcaps installed to reduce backlash further.	Norm
April 6, 2013	Z axis calibration fixed, Z steps/mm in new profile on Git. X/Y axis backlash observed, infill not meeting walls, delamination observed.	Norm
March 31, 2013	Z axis calibration issues observed. 25mm Test cube showed ~6.8% Z axis error.	Norm

Parts and Supplies Wish List

• Hardened Nozzle for printing Carbon Fiber and any other Filled Filaments (including glow-in-dark).
  • A usable Hardened Nozzle from Canada: https://shop3d.ca/products/0-50mm-jet-steel-nozzle-for-olsson-block-rss50 ... $29.38 w/ shipping & tax
    • See notes about UMO for this nozzle here: https://thegr5store.com/store/index.php/um2/rss50.html
  • Another possible Hardened Nozzle from Canada: https://spool3d.ca/nozzle-a2-reprap-m6-thread-3mm-filament-ultimaker-2-e3d-olsson-block/ ... $33.38 w/ shipping & tax (No Tracking!)