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Revision as of 02:42, 1 July 2020

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Retired Printer
(Retired Printer)
 
(78 intermediate revisions by one other user not shown)
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==Status==
==Status==
<onlyinclude>
<onlyinclude>
Zero Stop is out ... turn Z shaft '''clockwise''' to get flat/sticking filament
* '''Operational''' ... use PETG head '''only''' for PETG, and the PLA head '''only''' for PLA.
* '''LIMITED USE''' ... only print using PETG (2nd Printhead for PLA coming.)
** PETG printhead in printer -- loaded with 1.75mm Blue iPrint-3D PETG.
* The Buld Plate is no longer perfectly flat. (Small high area, centered on X-axis & bit behind Y-axis center.)
* The Printhead Heatsink Fan is '''always on''' ... so don't leave this printer powered on for long periods of time without printing.
* The Printhead Heatsink Fan is '''always on''' ... so don't leave this printer powered on for long periods of time without printing.
* Loaded with 1.75mm Green iPrint3D PETG
* [[3D_Printers#Cura_15|Cura 15 Settings here]] (see Cura 3 Settings section instead.)
* [[3D_Printers#Cura_15|Cura 15 Settings here]]
* '''http://octopi3.hacklab.to/'''</onlyinclude>
* '''http://octopi3.hacklab.to/'''</onlyinclude>


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==Known Issues and Fixes==
==Known Issues and Fixes==
* '''DO NOT''' do an "Atomic Pull" or "Cold Pull" on this 3D Printer!!! Doing that '''will break the heatbreak''' (at the nozzle end).
* Before starting to print, '''make sure the head heatsink fan is ON'''. If the connector on the cable came loose, then the filament '''will''' jam once that heatsink becomes too hot.
* Before starting to print, '''make sure the head heatsink fan is ON'''. If the connector on the cable came loose, then the filament '''will''' jam once that heatsink becomes too hot.
* This Printer has a '''removable printbed'''. So before printing, make sure that '''all 4 screwheads''' are forward to properly secure the printbed.
* This Printer has a '''removable printbed'''. So before printing, make sure that '''all 4 screwheads''' are forward to properly secure the printbed.
** NOTE: the current printbed has poorly cut "key" slots for the 4 bed screws ... so it takes a bit of patience to remove and re-install it, '''without''' trying to force it off or on while doing so.


'''IMPORTANT:''' All PETG filaments are '''not''' the same. This printer can '''only''' use PETG filaments where the maximum recommended printing temperature is '''240&deg;C'''. (MG Chemicals, iPrint-3D, Spool3D.ca & Cyclone Filament are some sources for that.) Most PETG filaments have a maximum recommended temperature of 260&deg;C to 265&deg;C.
'''IMPORTANT:''' All PETG filaments are '''not''' the same. This printer can '''only''' use PETG filaments where the maximum recommended printing temperature is '''240&deg;C'''. (MG Chemicals, iPrint-3D, Spool3D.ca & Cyclone Filament are some sources for that.) Most PETG filaments have a maximum recommended temperature of 260&deg;C to 265&deg;C.
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==Recommended Filament Settings==
==Recommended Filament Settings==


'''CURA 3 settings for PETG by iPrint3D & MG Chemicals'''
'''CURA 3 settings for PLA by Filaments.ca'''<br />
NOTE: The below settings for PLA are '''very aggresive''' -- for all those who can't wait for looong prints to finish. e.g. 75mm/s is the fastest usable speed. If things like print finish and not having small holes/voids in the infill matters, then this might need to be reduced to 50mm/s. Or for printing small minatures, slowing the print speed down to something like 25mm/s might be necessary. Also, slowing the travel speed down to 120mm/s -- instead of 150mm/s -- might help. While things like retraction settings could benefit from further test prints -- to try to find the "best" setting, instead of just a setting that is "close enough to work".<br />
'''Quality'''
* Layer Height: use anything from 0.1mm to 0.3mm
'''Material'''
* Printing Temperature: 190 &deg;C
* Diameter: 1.75 mm
* Flow: 100 %
* Retraction Distance: 0.65 mm
* Retraction Speed: 40 mm/s
'''Speed'''
* Print Speed: 75 mm/s (the other print speeds are calculated from this value)
* Travel Speed 150 mm/s
* Initial Layer Speed: 25 mm/s
* Enable Acceleration Control: SELECTED
** Print Acceleration: 2000 mm/s (2/3 of the default value)
** Travel Acceleration: 3000 mm/s (60% of the default value)
* Enable Jerk Control: SELECTED
** Print Jerk: 20 mm/s (the default value)
** Travel Jerk: 20 mm/s (set to same as Print Jerk)
'''Experimental'''
* Enable Costing: SELECTED (default values used for Coasting)
 
'''NOTE:''' The legacy '''Cura 15.04.06 settings''' for PLA can be found in this .ini file:<br />
https://github.com/W1N9Zr0/Ultimaker_Cura_Profile/blob/master/hacklab_typa_profile.ini
 
 
'''CURA 3.4.1 settings for PETG by iPrint3D'''


'''PLEASE NOTE:''' The below settings were used/tested only with Solid Color (not transparent) PETG filaments. As the Settings for any Transparent filament can be noticeably different for a solid color of the same product, the below may not provide acceptable results for Transparent PETG filaments.
'''PLEASE NOTE:''' These settings are a work in progress ... additional settings will be added as how to use those settings is worked out.


'''Quality'''
'''Quality'''
* Draft Quality ==> Layer Height: 0.2mm (Don't use less than this with PETG.)
* Layer Height: 0.225 mm (Using "Adaptive Layers", so this really means from 0.175mm to 0.275mm)<br />==> Using a Layer Height more than 2.75mm or less than 1.75mm seems to cause a LOT more PETG build-up on the outside of the nozzle.
* Initial Layer Height: 0.3 mm
* Line Width: 0.35 mm ('''smaller''' than the 0.4mm nozzle)
'''Shell'''
'''Shell'''
* Wall Thickness: 1.2 mm (3 perimeters seem to work a bit better than 2)
* Wall Thickness: 0 mm (using Wall Line Count instead)
* Top/Bottom Thickness: 1.2 mm (Same as above. Requires more than for PLA.)
** Wall Line Count: 3 (3 perimeters seem to work a bit better than 2)
* Top/Bottom Pattern: Zig Zag
* Top/Bottom Thickness: 1.2 mm (Requires more than for PLA.)
* Top/Bottom Pattern: Zig Zag (To help minimize retractions.)
* Bottom Pattern Initial Layer: Concentric (To get a better bottom surface.)
* Optimize Wall Printing Order: UNSELECTED
* Alternate Extra Wall: SELECTED
* Compensate Wall Overlaps: SELECTED
* Fill Gaps Between Walls: Everywhere
* Filter Out Tiny Gaps: SELECTED
* Print Thin Walls: SELECTED
* Z Seam Alignment: Shortest (Change this as needed.)
* Seam Corner Preference: None (Change this as needed.)
* Extra Skin Wall Count: 1
'''Infill'''
'''Infill'''
* Infill Pattern: Zig Zag
* Infill Density: 100% or less, as appropriate<br />==> 100% often used, as PETG is more flexible than PLA. (100% also permits MAXIMUM layer bonding.)<br />==> 25% often used when just want infill to print on top of. (PETG needs a little bit more infill to print over than PLA.)
* Infill Overlap Percentage: 50
* Infill Pattern: Zig Zag (To help minimize retractions.)
* Skin Overlap Percentage: 10
* Infill Overlap Percentage: 0 (Using Line Width < Nozzle Width instead.)
The Infill Overlap is '''extremely high'''! This value is used to ensure the infill will not separate from the Shell layers.<br />
* Skin Overlap Percentage: 0 (Using Line Width < Nozzle Width instead.)
 
* Infill Wipe Distance: 0 (Using Line Width < Nozzle Width instead.)
* Infill Before Walls: UNSELECTED (Select this only when needed.)
* Minimum Infill Area: 2  mm² (Can set to 0 -- to not use this setting -- if that seems needed.)
'''Material'''
'''Material'''
* Printing Temperature: 240 &deg;C
* Printing Temperature: 235 &deg;C (This should be set by the '''Material''' settings.)
* Diameter: 1.75 mm
* Printing Temperature Intitial Layer: 235 &deg;C
* Flow: 100 %
* Build Plate Temperature: 0 &deg;C
* Retraction Distance: 0.5 mm
* Diameter: 1.75 mm (This should be set by the '''Material''' settings.)<br />==> if possible, use the actual measured filament dia. -- Otherwise 1.7mm seems a good "best guess" for iPrint-3D PETG.
* Flow: 94 % (I would '''not''' want to use anything less than this.)
* Initial Layer Flow: 96 % (To get better buildplate adhesion.)
* Retraction Distance: 0.5 mm (Retraction & Coasting work together.)
* Retraction Speed: 25 mm/s
* Retraction Speed: 25 mm/s
** Retraction Retract Speed: 25 mm/s
** Retraction Retract Speed: 20 mm/s
** Retraction Prime Speed: 40 mm/s
** Retraction Prime Speed: 25 mm/s
* Retraction Extra Prime Amount: -0.0005 mm³ (That is a '''negative''' value.)
* Retraction Minimum Travel: 1.2 mm  (3 Nozzle Width, less than 4 Line Width)
* Maximum Retraction Count: 30 (# is usually for the above Retraction Distance.)
* Limit Support Retractions: UNSELECTED
'''Speed'''
'''Speed'''
* Print Speed: 25 mm/s
* Print Speed: 25 mm/s
** Infill Speed: 40 mm/s
** Infill Speed: 25 mm/s<br />==> Can try 30 to 35 mm/s for prints with larger areas of infill.<br />
** Wall Speed 20 mm/s
** Wall Speed 25 mm/s (Should not actually matter, since really using the Outer Wall & Inner Wall settings.)
*** Outer Wall Speed: 20 mm/s
*** Outer Wall Speed: 20 mm/s
*** Inner Wall Speed: 25 mm/s
*** Inner Wall Speed: 25 mm/s
** Top/Bottom Speed: 20 mm/s
** Support Speed: 25 mm/s
** Support Speed: 25 mm/s
* Travel Speed 240 mm/s
* Travel Speed 200 mm/s (The '''maximum travel speed''' for this printer.)<br />==> Using travel speeds above 200mm/s was contributing to occational X/Y axis layer shifts -- which took months to resolve.
* Initial Layer Speed: 20 mm/s
* Initial Layer Speed: 20 mm/s
* Enable Acceleration Control: SELECTED
** Print Acceleration: 2000 mm/s (2/3 of the default value)
** Travel Acceleration: 3000 mm/s (60% of the default value)
* Enable Jerk Control: UNSELECTED<br />==> Limiting sudden movement changes permits PETG to build up on outside of head.<br />
'''Travel'''
'''Travel'''
* Combing Mode: All<br />==> This sometimes provides *much* faster print times.<br />==> Set to “No Skin” or “Off” only if surface movement lines are a problem.
* Max Comb Distance With No Retract: 2.0 mm (Set to some reasonable value. New in Cura 3.4)
* Retract Before Outer Wall: UNSELECTED
* Avoid Printed Parts When Traveling: SELECTED
* Avoid Supports When Traveling: SELECTED
* Z Hop When Retracted: SELECTED
* Z Hop When Retracted: SELECTED
* Z Hop Only Over Printed Parts: UNSELECTED
* Z Hop Height: 0.5 mm
* Z Hop Height: 0.5 mm
'''Support'''
* Support Pattern: Lines
* Support Density: 20%
'''Cooling'''
'''Cooling'''
* Enable Print Cooling: UNSELECTED
* Enable Print Cooling: UNSELECTED (DON'T use Filament Cooling with PETG!)
* Minimum Layer Time: 10 s
* Minimum Layer Time: 10 s
'''Support'''
* Generate Support: SELECTED (Unselect this when not needed.)
* Support Placement: Everywhere (Use "Touching Build Plate" when appropriate.)
* Support Overhang Angle: 50 &deg;
* Support Pattern: Lines (Least difficult to remove support type for PETG.)
* Support Wall Line Count: 1 (This makes supports print '''much''' better.)
* Support Density: 20% (Needs more than PLA.)
* Support Join Distance: 2.5 mm (Adjust as appropriate.)
* Support Horizontal Expansion: 0.2 mm
* Gradual Support Infill Steps: 0 (Using this is not tested yet.)
'''Build Plate Adhesion'''
* Build Plate Adhesion Type: Brim
* Brim Width: 10 mm
* Brim Only on Outside: SELECTED (Select or Unselect as appropriate.)
'''Special Modes'''
'''Special Modes'''
* Print Sequence: One at a Time
* Print Sequence: All At Once (This setting seems needed to make other things work.)
'''Experimental'''
'''Experimental'''
* Enable Costing: SELECTED
* Maximum Resolution: 0.01 mm
** Costing Volume: 1.0 mm<sup>3</sup> (aprox. 150% the Cura 3 default value)
* Enable Costing: SELECTED<br />==> Costing together with a small retraction seems to works better than using just retractions.<br />
The '''new''' (experimental) Costing Feature of Cura 3 is what enables the above settings to provide a very noticeable improvement in the PETG print quality. Where using Costing together with a small retraction works far far better than using just retractions.
* Costing Volume: 0.1 mm<sup>3</sup> (aprox. 150% the Cura 3 default value)
<br />&nbsp;
* Minimum Volume Before Coasting: 0.8 mm<sup>3</sup>
* Coasting Speed: 100 %
* Alternate Skin Rotation: SELECTED (UNSELECT this when using Supports.)
* Use Adaptive Layers: SELECTED
* Adaptive Layers Maximum Variation: 0.05 mm
* Adaptive Layers Variation Step Size: 0.01 mm
* Adaptive Layers Threshold: 180 (Default value is 200)<br />==>  180 seems to provide about same quality & speed as using a 0.1mm layer height with PLA on Ultimaker 1.
<br />
NOTES:


NOTES:
* The above settings are a "best compromise", to get '''good''' results, without limiting the print speed any more than necessary.
* For best results printing PETG, '''do not use the Filament Fan'''. (Print with the Hotend Heatsink Fan '''only'''.) When the Filament Fan is used, expect layer separation problems. When printed without using a Filament Fan, PETG has '''exceptional''' layer bonding.
* For best results printing PETG, '''do not use the Filament Fan'''. (Print with the Hotend Heatsink Fan '''only'''.) When the Filament Fan is used, expect layer separation problems. When printed without using a Filament Fan, PETG has '''exceptional''' layer bonding.
* As a filament type, PETG is terrible at things like bridging. This includes you might need just a bit more top surface over infill to get a smooth outer layer.
* As a filament type, PETG is terrible at things like steep overhangs and bridging. This includes you might need just a bit more top surface over infill to get a smooth outer layer. (Or just use a slightly higher infill %.)
* As the head moves through spiderweb thin strands between printed parts, PETG filament build-up on the '''outside''' of the printhead. Despite this, any print that could be described as a "highly shaped bock of plastic" will work well. But for prints where the head constantly moves over open air (no plastic under the head), the melted PETG dropping off the outside of the printhead might cause that print to fail.
* That PETG likes to to buildup on the '''outside''' of the print nozzle is a major problem with this filament type. This has a lot to so with how all PETG is "stringy". (Some makes/brands are worse than others.) So as the hot nozzle moves through any spiderweb thin strands between printed parts, PETG filament builds up on the nozzle. (And eventually may drop onto the print, as a possibly print ruining blob of plastic.) For that reason, any print that could be described as a "highly shaped bock of plastic" should work well. But prints where the head constantly moves over open air -- with no plastic under the nozzle & creating many strands -- are more likely to fail.
* These settings use a 0.35mm line width out of a 0.4mm nozzle, '''instead''' of all the other overlaps which would also contribute to PETG trying to build up on the outside of the nozzle.


==Cura 3 Settings for this Printer==
==Cura 3 Settings for this Printer==
To use the below settings, create a '''Custom FDM printer''', then edit the '''Machine Settings''' for that printer to contain the following:<br />
In Cura 3.4.1, to use the below settings, create a '''Custom FDM printer''', then edit the '''Machine Settings''' for that printer to contain the following:<br />
... '''PRINTER TAB'''<br />
'''Printer Settings'''
'''Printer Settings'''
* X (Width): 254 mm
* X (Width): 254 mm
Line 104: Line 186:
* Gantry height: 110.0 mm
* Gantry height: 110.0 mm
* Number of Extruders: 1
* Number of Extruders: 1
* Material Diameter: 1.75 mm
* Nozzle size: 0.4 mm
'''Start Gcode'''
'''Start Gcode'''
<code>
<code>
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   G90                        ;absolute positioning
   G90                        ;absolute positioning
</code>
</code>
... '''EXTRUDER 1 TAB'''<br />
* Nozzle size: 0.4 mm
* Compatible Material diameter: 1.75 mm


==Machine Log==
==Machine Log==
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!Entry By
!Entry By
|-
|-
| June 28, 2020
|
* This Machine has been retired, it was taken home during the HL2 => HL3 by a member. This was with the consent of the hacklab membership.
| Revident
|-
|November 14, 2018
|
* Had repeated/ongoing LAYER SHIFT problems with a large "lot of movements" print.
** Snugged the screws to hold the plate on, as it was moving.
** Tightened the printhead gantry screws. Several have nuts pulling through, so '''need to glue that part of the printer'''.
** Retention both belts, by adding a printed piece onto each belt.
** Still getting some Layer Shifts, so will have to try 120mm/s travel speed next. (Instead of 200mm/s)
* Discovered the Print Bed Plate is no longer flat. (Small high area, centered on X-axis & bit behind Y-axis.)
|Allen
|-
|September 20, 2018
|
* Had a LAYER SHIFT happen on a (physically) large print.
** Found that the right Y-axis belt is looser ... and I cannot get it any tighter.
* Printed and installed this ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:261120 ) on the belt itself, to tweek the tension just a bit tighter
** Did a quick print, to check the printer is actually fixed. (Only had time for 20mm cube.)
|Allen
|-
|September 19, 2018
|
* The PETG p4rinthead DIED.
** broken wires due to wires flexing right at the Heater connector.
** Also, again getting erratic flow or PETG out of the printhead.
* Used the PLA head, with the nozzle from the PETG head, to "remake" a PETG printhead.
** Short bit of heat-shrink used to provide strain relief were wires go into heater connector.
** Teflon in heatbreak was 5mm toooo short, as the larger bore in the Heatsink goes 5mm beyond the end of the M6 threads.
*** Craft knife to cut the 5mm pushed out Teflon from a dead heatbreak, then put that into heatsink area above M6 threads.
*** Heat hotend block w/ heatbreak screwed in to 200C, then carefully push Teflon all way back into heatbreak.
*** Finish assembly & testing this "rebuilt, for PETG" printhead.
NOTE: This is now the "last functioning" printhead for the Type A. (Until get more connector crimp contacts, to remake another head).
*HINDSIGHT: I actually put the heatbreak in '''upside down'''!
** Putting the heatbreak in with the metal cap UP would leave a 5mm air-gap at the top of the printhead, which is NOT suitable for flexible filaments, but should work for the filaments HackLab is using right now.
|Allen
|-
|September 4, 2018
|
* Bring in roll of my own PETG, and unclog printhead. (Was not badly clogged.)
** Then did many hours of printing, so printer is working as it should.
* Flipped the plastic build plate over while putting on a 3M 2090 Tape sheet.
** Top nuts to adjust springs that hold plate still need to be tweaked. (Back/Right spring is tooo tight.)
|Allen
|-
|August 29, 2018
|
* Problems setting zero-stop. Center of plastic build plate could be warped just slightly.
** Will flip the plate over, while putting a sheet of 2090 blue tape down the center next week.
* PETG ran out, and print proceeded for maybe as much as 1/2 hour.
** Will bring in more PETG, and clear/clean the PETG head next week.
|Allen
|-
|June 2018 (rest of)
|
* Keep trying to use small files, to get the *mangled* key-hole slots close enough that the new build plate will come off without "fighting with it".
* Zero Stop tweaked.
|Allen
|-
|June 19, 2018
|
* Use a small half-round file, to get the Key Hole slots closer to what was in the original Plexiglas build plate.
* Test further, and tweek Bed Leveling.
|Allen
|-
|June 13, 2018
|
* Replaced the warped build plate using a slab of plastic (Plexiglas?) that was salvaged from an old scanner.
* Correctly set the Zero Stop, so that prints now should "just print" ... with NO need to manually adjust the z-height for the 1st layer.
|Allen
|-
|March 15, 2018
| After printing over 20 hours of work, there are NO x-axis or y-axis shifts to all those prints, so this printer '''finally''' seems fixed.
|Allen
|-
|February 28, 2018
|
* STILL GETTING '''LARGE''' X-AXIS SHIFTS!
** Next week, I may have to check that both stepper drivers are at the below voltages. (To make sure I didn't adjust the wrong driver board pot.)
* Moving the Head back & forth along the X-Axis (with the power off), it seems to be catching/binding as it goes side-to-side.
* Adjust the X-Axis right pulley screw '''again'''. (Slowly tightening it this time.)
** After several tries to adjust this, the X belt suddenly has good tension again, and the head now moves smoothly side-to-side.
** Then was able to get a multi-hour print that came out perfectly, with no layer shift. ... So this might finally be fixed.
|Allen
|-
|February 27, 2018
|
* The Y axis REF voltage was upped from 0.316V to 0.368V.
** This should correspond to a current increase from 250mA to 295mA.
* Use SuperLube to carefully lubricate all the rods & the Z-axis screw.
|Allen
|-
|February 14, 2018
|
* After about 6hrs of printing perfectly, suddenly get a '''large''' x-axis shift again.
* This video '''uses a different driver board''' -- but provides an EXCELLENT way to measure the Ref. Voltage for the driver current.
** https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XU6lgFeZ7ZQ
* This photo proveides info. about the '''G3D Drive Board''' that is used in this printer.
** http://reprap.org/wiki/File:G3d_11.jpg
* The REF voltage was upped from 0.5V to 0.64V
** This should correspond to a current increase from 625mA to 800mA
* FAILED AGAIN, this time with a '''large y-axis shift''' ... so apparently that stepper driver also needs to be adjusted.
|Allen
|-
|February 13, 2018
|
* When 1st tried using, attempting to move the X-axis often just made '''ugly''' noises. (Will not move all way to the right side.)
* Spent '''hours''' adjusting the X-axis belts to even get this to print. (Belt not lined up problems, etc..)
* Then spent hours more continuing to make tiny adjustments, to get a print that finally did not have any x-axis shift.
* All of this ended up leaving the x-axis belt a bit looser than I would like
* ATRAIN advised that it seemed like the stepper current needed to be increased.
|Allen
|-
|February 08, 2018
|
* Tighten the X-axis Belts yet again. (Really tighten, and use old white glue on/behind washer to prevent slipping.)
* Update the firmware for the final PID values.
  // AluHotend E3Dv6
    #define  DEFAULT_Kp 8.66
    #define  DEFAULT_Ki 1.02
    #define  DEFAULT_Kd 48.80
* NOTE: had to leave this in what I '''hoped''' was working order, as the glue should be left to dry for 24hrs.
|Allen
|-
|December 14, 2017
|
* Assemble & Test the 2nd head assembly for PLA.
|Allen
|-
|December 13, 2017
|
* Suddenly have constant layer shifts due to LOOSE BELTS. (Very loose, both X & Y.)
* Tighten all 3 Belts for X/Y movement.
* Once X belt tight, spot that an M2 or M3 screw into the plywood slot, could be used to prevent the washers from moving.
* Use cut-off nails to "pin" the washers for the assembly to tighten the 2 Y belts.
|Allen
|-
|December 07, 2017
|
* AGAIN suddenly have a layer shifts due to LOOSE BELT. (X belt very loose again)
* Tighten the X belt yet again.
|Allen
|-


|November 08, 2017
|November 08, 2017
Line 334: Line 583:


==Parts and Supplies Wish List==
==Parts and Supplies Wish List==
* Connector Parts needed to finish other 2 Printheads -- and also to try different filament cooling fans.
** 3 pieces of:  https://www.digikey.ca/products/en?keywords=Wm1845-ND  (Have 2 of these.)
** 20 pieces of:  https://www.digikey.ca/products/en?keywords=Wm1837CT-ND  (Have 4 of these.)
** 8 pieces of:  https://www.digikey.ca/products/en?keywords=Wm1855-ND  (Have 2 of these. Also for cooling fan.)
** 50 pieces of: https://www.digikey.ca/products/en?keywords=Wm1841CT-ND  (Have NONE of these. Also for cooling fan.)
PLEASE NOTE: These connectors are '''extremely difficult''' to crimp in a manner they work. So at least '''double''' the crimp-connector parts are needed to get solid/working connectors.


*www.aliexpress.com/item/A-Funssor-Silicone-Socks-for-v6-hotend-SILICONE-HEATER-BLOCK-COVER-Heater-Block-Silicone-Insulation-Blue/32823079702.html
*www.aliexpress.com/item/A-Funssor-Silicone-Socks-for-v6-hotend-SILICONE-HEATER-BLOCK-COVER-Heater-Block-Silicone-Insulation-Blue/32823079702.html
Revident
173

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